z-force 60 riding mower

[Clois Versyp]

I have a z-force 60 cub cadet bought in june 2006.
It has about 90 hours on it. It just creaps forward on the left side.
goes backward just fine. A shop told me I needed a new drive motor.
Has any one had this problem. Also can you get a service manuel to work on the
hydrostatic drives.

 

[OldMachinist]

The Z Force 60 was made with a couple of different transmissions. If you post the model number(should start with 17 or 53) I will see if I have the service manual for yours.

 

[JTKub]

Not sure if Manuel works on Saturdays (kidding!), but a manual trans will not work on a zero-turn. Given it backs up normally, this could be a simple linkage issue. If a hydrostatic drive works perfectly in reverse, the internal mechanicals *should* be fine. Like OM says, lets start by determining what transaxles you've got. As a start, I'd swap the oil out in them. There's threads on this forum in regards to that.

Joel

 

[Clois Versyp]

The Z Force 60 was made with a couple of different transmissions. If you post the model number(should start with 17 or 53) I will see if I have the service manual for yours.

The model number for my mower is 53AA5DBJ709. Serial number is 2B026Z82020.
I have an extened warranty. The warranty people refered me to a shop in my area, which picked up the mower. The shop said I caused the problem by overloading the drives, therfore the warranty is no good. The operators manual says to mow at full throttle, however, the controls are so sensitive there is no way you can make a smooth start or operate at a slow gound speed, so I never have run it full throttle. Its been that way from day 1. I don't know if that is the problem.
clois

 

[OldMachinist]

And just how did they say you overloaded the drives. As long as you didn't have a hitch on it pulling around a trailer theres no way they could say you overloaded it. I mean you just mowed with it as it was designed to do. With only 90 hours on it I'd fight it.
Okay now that I ranted here's the service manual for the ZT2800 transmission that your machine uses. HydroGear_BLN-52441-zt-2800_P5.pdf The service manual says that if it drives in one direction only that it is ether a linkage or belt problem. And here's the Z-Force service manual that has linkage adjustment procedures. Cub_Cadet_Z-Force_Series_Zero_Turn_Service_Repair_Manual_2.pdf

 

[MarkV]

I agree, how did you overload the drives? That just doesn't make sense to me. On my Z force 50 you set it on full throttle and go. Call the company and get a better explanation as to why they are not honoring the warranty. Sounds like the repair place doesn't like doing warranty work.

MarkV

 

[JTKub]

I know hind-sight is a wonderful thing, but you shouldn't have mentioned running the unit at partial throttle to the shop doing the warranty evaluation. I realize this probably has nothing to do with the issue, but the ops manuals do state to run at max governed RPM and warranty companies will try to wiggle out of coverage any way they can. I'd go to another shop that accepts the warranty you have (make no mention to the partial throttle thing!!!). All else fails, look Hydrogear corp up and call them. I've dealt with them directly with questions and they're great.

Joel

 

[OldMachinist]

Running at half throttle should still be above the 1800 minimum rpms listed by Hydro-Gear Hydro-Gear ? ZT Series Don't let them push you around. Make them give you a explaination in writing as to why they think you overloaded the unit.

 

[Clois Versyp]

Thanks for the information. I have the instruction manuals printed out. The transmission manual is going to be a lot of help. I now have the transmission out and on the work bench. All I have found out so far is none of the shops around here wants to work on these zt-2800 transmissions. Hope I can get parts if I need any.
Clois

 

[OldMachinist]

Here's the parts diagrams for the ZT-2800. ZH ZT-2800.pdf
If you do need parts you can get them here. Ordertree.com | Lawn Mower Parts | Emergency Preparedness
Be very careful taking it apart when they assemble these they use self tapping bolts that tend to sieze and gall up in the holes when you try to remove them. Apply penetrating oil to the holes the day before you intend to work on it. If a bolt refuses to move heat the area with a propane torch and use more oil. Once you get a bolt to start moving work it back and forth until it moves freely and comes out. I've broken several of these bolts and unless you have the right equipment they are a pain to drill out. The service manual says to use new regular threaded bolts when you put it back together but you may have to run a tap in the holes first.