YM1700 Clutch adjustment after splitting

[Dingbat]

<font color="red"> U P D A T E </font> Before I could try the suggestion, my friends did some brute force things trying to make an adjustment and things went bad. They re-split the 1700 and found that they had broke a tooth on the yoke. Before I buy another one from Aron, am I missing something that caused this (not being able to adjust it) to begin with? We think we had the yoke in correct...teeth facing towards the clutch plate. We think everything else was done right (we did install a new clutch plate). Does a clutch plate need wearing in? Thanks much!!!! Steve

YM 1700 clutch broke. Split her and found that both teeth on yoke were broke. Hoyt did an /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gifAMAZING /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif job in getting me parts in a day /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. Got new yoke, throw out bearing, clutch plate, and saft collars. Put her back together.
Good news /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif is that she'l move. Bad news /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif is that the clutch really doesn't disengage and she wants to clunk into gear and crawl even when the clutch is pushed.

Have tried every possible adjustment to clutch linage. Since there is really nothing else to adjust, what could be the problem? Maybe it'll get better with use?

This was my first splitting. An old hand at tractors did the splitting; Friend and I put it back together.

Thanks in advance for any counsel. Steve

 

[mark777]

Steve,

I have done a few clutches and found that removing the adjuster rod, neutral switch and even the rubber stop under the deck all helps when adjusting a new clutch.

The welded arm on the bell housing should be approx 6:00 o'clock in the relaxed position. I put the adjuster rod in a vice, loosen and lube stop nuts, rod and turnbuckle with light grease and reinstall. The clutch pedal should have approximately 1/2" to 3/4" of free play before it disengages and when fully disengaged your neutral safety switch should be reinstalled and the button fully actuated when the pedal is all the way down. It takes a little practice but I am sure you'll get it right.

In a few instances I have discovered the clutch rod to be shortened and re threaded in an attempt to get the last ounce of friction surfaces because someone doesn't want to split a tractor....(and I don't think that ever works??). I have also seen this on the brake adjusters too. Good luck.

Mark

 

[Dingbat]

<font color="red"> UPDATE 1 </font> <font color="blue">PRESSURE PLATE!!! </font> We thought (esp my tractor spirtual advisor) that the plate was good so we did not change it when we changed the yoke, clutch, throw out bearing. When all else failed, we tried that. It WORKS!. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Many thanks to Aron at Hoyt for tolerating my many calls and in responding so fast! Ordered the Parts on Thur and got them Fri. Still amazed that every part I needed on a 80's tractor was avail instantly and at a great price. THANKS ARON!