YM 1500 Oil Leak

Florida_Farmer · Aug 21, 2002

I've had my 1500 for about 6 months, put about 40 hours on it, and yesterday my wife says "did you change the oil in the tractor because it's leaking"
Where's the logic in that?? Anyway, I didn't change the oil but it is leaking... Obviously, it had not before.
There's a small hole that is on the lower portion of the bellhousing where the oil is dripping from.
The lower bolts that connect the clutch housing to the engine were loose (one was really loose) and I tightened them, also most of the bolts on the pan were a little loose as well.
I was hoping after snugging all the bolts up that the leak would quit but not so..still dripping
Any suggestions, Ideas, stupid things I've overlooked...help.....
Thanks

TBrad · Aug 21, 2002

FF,It sounds like your rear main seal is leaking.Tractor will have to be split to replace seal.While you're in there,check condition of clutch,release brg.Good time to replace if worn.

Florida_Farmer · Aug 22, 2002

Thanks for the reply TBrad, I was hoping a bolt just fell out... But - I don't have a local Yanmar shop adn I think this one is beyond my capabilities - do you think a JD or other shop may be able to do it?
In the meantime, I'll guess it's OK to run as long as I keep my eye on the oil level?

Whiskey · Aug 22, 2002

Hey Florida farmer:
I live in a small town in the central Fla. area that has a couple of shops that maybe able to help you out if you are still looking for a dealer to work on or get you parts for your graymarket or I think they can...let me know

gbirky · Aug 22, 2002

Florida Farmer,
Splitting a tractor is not really that difficult. It is just very time consuming. It is also very educational. Getting it back together is the hardest part IMHO. Just take is slow and you will learn alot in the process. I attached a photo of my YM1110D split. I had the front axle off when I put it back together, and that made it harder.

Soundguy · Aug 22, 2002

Small world. I live in central fl too. Nice to see some local people here. I'm in summerfield, ( midway between gainesville, and orlando ) where are you?

Soundguy

<font color=green>Hey Florida farmer:
I live in a small town in the central Fla. area that has a couple of shops that maybe able to help you out if you are still looking for a dealer to work on or get you parts for your graymarket or I think they can...let me know

EFC · Aug 22, 2002

First, how much oil is dripping? We don’t know for sure which seal is leaking so it would be good to find that out for sure before ordering parts and having somebody tear things apart. Any competent mechanic that runs a small shop can do this job half asleep. Just find somebody you can trust, your parts can be bought online from Len or the like. These tractors like most from that era are built to be simple machines that can be worked on in a field. To decide if it is the engine or the transmission that is leaking, drain the oil out of your engine and wait a few days to see if the drips stops.

gerlacr · Aug 22, 2002

I have to agree with gbirky. If you have to split the tractor, it is a great educational experience and is allot easier than it looks. You will end up knowing your tractor much more intimately (if that is what you want) and have a better feel for why things are working or not working properly in the future. Sounds like EFC has some good advice about isolating the source of the leak.

Whiskey · Aug 22, 2002

Soundguy:
Lets see if you can come up with the name, Ill give you the thing this town is know for "the strawberry" and a lot of them...lol. one more tip for ya between Tampa & Lakeland.
OK, you guys talk about spitting a tractor in two, are you really trying to get to belive this is easy??? not that I need to yet but I have woundered when it's clutch time if I was ahhhh lets just say I would hate to look at wifey and say "but babe I really thought I could put it back together" only to watch her walk away shaking her head, She alreay thinks I'm weird for joining a tractor site...women will they ever understand us?????

gbirky · Aug 22, 2002

No, they never will...at least not mine as long as I own 3 tractors anyway.

Florida_Farmer · Aug 22, 2002

At the moment, it only appears to leak when running. Haven't noticed it leaking when in the shed. Based on the comments, I'm thinking about doing it myself but still not sure. If I were to chicken out and take it to somebody, what would a fair price be to break in two and replace the seal?
Thanks for all the comments - it really helps to figure out what I'm up against..
Florida Farmer

EFC · Aug 22, 2002

Florida Farmer, splitting is not that hard but neither is heart surgery for a good surgeon. With that said if you do it wrong no one dies. If you have some tools, friends and patience/time then it can be a rewarding experience. If your short on time and your tools are not metric and your friends wouldn’t think of bothering you when you need help then I would take it to a mechanic and have it done. Price is a complete variable. I had a guy bring his tractor in that spent $1000 dollars on a clutch job........yikes! If you want to do it yourself there are quite a few people on this board that will help you and you can always call me on the phone 509-374-3398. Problem is that you have a leaky seal that on either end might not be the easiest job to do.

Florida_Farmer · Aug 22, 2002

OK EFC - I may be getting a little braver... I need your help to understand how quick I need to get at this. Can you confirm my guess that so long as the oil level is monitored that I can still use the tractor? My wife uses it daily for pulling a manure spreader to clean 12 horse stalls and I'm thinking this split the tractor in two is a good project for the fall - the grass is growing so fast here that I don't think I can spare the downtime unless I'm going to cause further damage.
Thanks for the well thought out response - I look forward to your and others comments.
Thanks

Ozarker · Aug 22, 2002

Depending on the rate at which it is leaking, yes, you can keep using it. If it is only leaking a couple of ounces a day, no problem. Just keep it full.

If it is dumping about half a quart an hour, you need to fix it now.

The biggest problem a small leak from the rear main can cause is that it can get on the clutch plate and cause it to start slipping. But it has probably already started getting on the clutch plate so I believe you should plan to replace the clutch when you open it up anyway.

EFC · Aug 22, 2002

Ditto /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif. Someday the clutch will start slipping and then you will know it is time. Clutches are cheap so dont worry.

Ozarker · Aug 23, 2002

I should have added this above but forgot.

I am not convinced, yet, that it is your rear main seal that is leaking. Usually, when a rear main leaks it gets on the flywheel and gets thrown all over the inside of the bell housing. Then it leaks for a couple of hours after you park it as the oil drains down the inside of the housing.

You say that it only leaks when running and not after you park it. That tells me that it could be leaking from somewhere else but running down to the bell housing so that it appears to be coming from there.

Have you thoroughly cleaned the engine then run it to see exactly where it is coming from? It wouldn't be the first time a leak at the back of the engine looked like it was coming from the bell housing. Chevy small blocks were famous for leaking from the back of the intake manifold or the oil plug on the left rear of the block and run down the dust cover of the bell housing. Makes it appear that the oil is coming from the rear main.

A couple of other possibilities on your engine would be the oil line that runs from the left side of the block up to the head for lubrication or the rear of the valve cover.

xantherx · Aug 23, 2002

Assuming you can find someone to agree to work on a Yanmar, the going labor rate around here in NC for tractor mechanics is $40-50 per hour. Many are reluctant to tackle a Yanmar because they lack the experience/manuals/parts. The shops are a little vague when they give you an estimate on time/costs. Most just said "a couple of days of work." Then add full retail prices to any parts needed since they would likely have to be ordered from out-of-state. So you are looking at big bucks. I agree with everyone else: consider getting a tech manual covering your tractor (they are available......not the basic owner's manual) and tackling the job yourself. One of the online dealers should be able to equip you. After some ridiculous estimates of cost/time from various shops, I tore down & replaced leaking seals in my rear end for about $100 in parts and a day's worth of my labor. I took it slow, carefully cleaned & replaced everything and learned a lot. I know it was done right. No more leaks.