Yet another woodworking question.

[N80]

I posted a while back about building some shelving for my wife's dressing room/closet in regard to what material to use. I have decided to use cabinet grade plywood.

I have read some reviews about some cabinet grade plywood that say certain circular saw/table saw blades cause splintering of the veneer and sometimes even of the filler ply in between.

What type of saw blade do I need for this sort of work? I'm assuming something with more and smaller teeth. What are the downsides or limitations of this sort of blade?

Thanks for the help.

 

[om21braz]

You might check out these blades for a good choice:

Freud Tools

I expect any of these would a happy medium between quality and price.

If price is no object and you can find a inch series blade in the correct size - check out the following:
Premium Quality Saw Blades - Saw blades
LEUCO - Online Catalog

 

[SJay]

If you are trying to cross cut the plywood a track saw works very well. I have been using a Festool track saw for years and it does not let plywood splinter when it is cross cut. Otherwise you can tape the edge to keep the fibers down.

 

[N80]

Thanks guys. I guess what I really need to know is how many teeth for this job. Plywood will likely be 3/4".

 

[farmer2009]

Diablo makes a good blade. It's what I run on my table and miter saws.
Whenever I cut cabinet grade plywood, I watch which way my finish side is facing on the saw. A table saw cuts down, so turn your finish side up. A miter saw or circular saw cuts up, so turn finish side down. This allows the rest of the wood to support the finish side during the cut. Any splintering happens on the hidden side. Tape also helps to reduce splinters.

 

[aircommuter]

The smoothest cutting blade I have found is a Forest. You might look at Russian Birch plywood, it has fibers in with the glue. Metric sized 12mm and the thicker version is 17 or 18. The sheets are square.

 

[dickfoster]

I posted a while back about building some shelving for my wife's dressing room/closet in regard to what material to use. I have decided to use cabinet grade plywood.

I have read some reviews about some cabinet grade plywood that say certain circular saw/table saw blades cause splintering of the veneer and sometimes even of the filler ply in between.

What type of saw blade do I need for this sort of work? I'm assuming something with more and smaller teeth. What are the downsides or limitations of this sort of blade?

Thanks for the help.

One way to hold splintering down to a roar is to make two cuts instead of one. On a table saw first a very shallow cut to cut though just the lower venier with minimal splintering, then adjust depth of cut and resaw the whole way though on the final pass. Same thing with a circular saw only reversed, first make a shallow top cut followed by another pass with the depth of cut adjusted to cut all the way though. Yes you can buy plywood blades but a cross cut blade and the two cut technique will probably suffice to minimize chipping.

 

[Egon]

Saw blades, #teeth, kerf width, hook angle and type of saw all come together.

Suggest a neutral hook medium kerf 80 or so tooth blade. If expensive go narrow kerf.

Depending on your saw you may be able to use a smaller diameter blade. When cutting the teeth should just clear the depth of wood. Saw has to be properly aligned. Ten inch blade should cost about eighty Canadian dollars or more. Keep the blade dedicated to finish work.

 

[dickfoster]

Saw blades, #teeth, kerf width, hook angle and type of saw all come together.

Suggest a neutral hook medium kerf 80 or so tooth blade. If expensive go narrow kerf.

Depending on your saw you may be able to use a smaller diameter blade. When cutting the teeth should just clear the depth of wood. Saw has to be properly aligned. Ten inch blade should cost about eighty Canadian dollars or more. Keep the blade dedicated to finish work.

You forgot carbide. I don't think anything but a carbide toothed blade is worth taking from the store.

Another thing to be wary of, those very fine toothed specialty plywood blades are typically, non carbide and about as slow cutting as molasses at Christmas so tend to burn. However they are cheap. Smarter money is investing in a good quality thin kerf, carbide cross cut blade and double cut if you have to. You'll get much more use out of it.
If you intend to make a single pass cut, keep the finish side down with a circular saw and finish side up on a table saw. When the tooth exits the cut where the unsupported face laminate is, that's where chipping and tearout occur. Sharp blades also chip and tearout less than dull blades.

 

[Qapla]

In addition to carbide, make sure you use a combination/all purpose blade for plywood - since some of the cuts will be "rip" cuts to the surface and other will be "crosscut".

Here is a good article that may help