Yet another attachments question

   / Yet another attachments question #1  

Phil_VA

New member
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
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16
Location
Leesburg, VA
Tractor
None right now...
OK, so I've read through quite a few of the threads on attachments, but still had a few questions of my own. I would like to get the most useful attachments, but as with most people I don't have an unlimited budget so I'm looking for versatility. These are the projects I have in mind so far:

On-going projects:

1 -Unloading/moving mulch around the property
2 -Removing tree stumps
3 -Maintaining gravel driveways
4 -Moving tree trunks/limbs to the log splitter

Occaisional/one-time projects:

5 - Regrading sections of the property (mostly small sections, but enough to need something that can dig). Future project to extend existing driveway would also involve some regrading.
6 - Replacing 100ft of existing rough stone steps with something better suited to younger (my son) and older (my in-laws) people
7 - Installing about 250ft of irrigation pipe from the house to a vegetable garden

So, I'm thinking the Grapple bucket or 4-in-1 for 1, 4, 5 and 6 (with a future thought to the large bucket for 1). Yes, I've read the thread on Grapple vs 4-in-1, and still can't decide...

Stump grinder for 2.

Box blade for 3 (or use the bucket with teeth).

Mini-hoe for 5, 6 and possibly 7.

Thoughts, recommendations? I know the Trencher would be quicker for the irrigation pipe, but I couldn't justify the expense without other projects in mind, and I could see many uses for the Mini-hoe. What about the Potato Digger for laying the pipe - will this work?

Is this overkill to get the box-blade if I get a bucket with teeth?

I may also consider the forks, just for overall versatility.

Overall the property is about 6 acres, mostly grass with quite a few trees (only a small section of 'woods'). Rolling hill with some steep sections near the house. I don't need a mower since I have a ZTR that gets the job done, although if I had the money I'd be interested in the boom mower to get some of the sections I currently do using a regular (22") mower because they are too steep.

- Phil
 
   / Yet another attachments question #2  
Your list of tasks for the 4n1 vs grapple bucket is easily done by the 4n1. Add some teeth to it and then you won't need the reg bucket or box blade. You'll find the PT is so productive you won't miss having the large bucket either. I concur on the mini hoe and stump grinder.

Good luck!
 
   / Yet another attachments question #3  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( On-going projects:

1 -Unloading/moving mulch around the property <font color="red"> LM Bucket. </font>

2 -Removing tree stumps <font color="red"> Stump Grinder. </font>

3 -Maintaining gravel driveways <font color="red"> For spreading gravel and leveling, LM Bucket. For HD raking, teeth and fangs on Grapple Bucket. </font>

4 -Moving tree trunks/limbs to the log splitter <font color="red"> Safely, Grapple Bucket.</font>

Occaisional/one-time projects:

5 - Regrading sections of the property (mostly small sections, but enough to need something that can dig). Future project to extend existing driveway would also involve some regrading. <font color="red"> 4in1 and Box Blade may be best, but LM Bucket and Grapple Bucket will do it. </font>

6 - Replacing 100ft of existing rough stone steps with something better suited to younger (my son) and older (my in-laws) people <font color="red"> Like what?? </font>

7 - Installing about 250ft of irrigation pipe from the house to a vegetable garden <font color="red"> MiniHoe, but Potato Digger is faster if trench is <1' deep. </font>

Box blade for 3 (or use the bucket with teeth). <font color="red"> Grapple Bucket has HD Bucket with Rock Teeth. </font>

Is this overkill to get the box-blade if I get a bucket with teeth? <font color="red"> Yes, unless you are doing a lot of it. </font>

I may also consider the forks, just for overall versatility. <font color="red"> Handy and cheap. </font>

)</font>

<font color="red"> When it comes to dirt work, the most important consideration is the soil type. Sand? Clay? Loam? Rocks? Roots?</font>
 
   / Yet another attachments question
  • Thread Starter
#4  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 6 - Replacing 100ft of existing rough stone steps with something better suited to younger (my son) and older (my in-laws) people <font color="red"> Like what?? </font>
<font color="purple"> Not sure yet, but it needs to be more even on height, length and pitch of the steps - going down there on a rainy day is a challenge. </font>
<font color="red"> When it comes to dirt work, the most important consideration is the soil type. Sand? Clay? Loam? Rocks? Roots?</font>

<font color="purple"> Soil is mostly clay with quite a few roots </font>
)</font>
 
   / Yet another attachments question #5  
<font color="blue"> (Soil is mostly clay with quite a few roots) </font>


<font color="red"> That's what I have!!
AAAsmiley.jpg


You will be disappointed with anything less than a PT-425!

The LM in LM Bucket is for "Light Material". It should be renamed "Loose Material"!

/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gifThe PT-425 is NOT a bulldozer! The LM, or the HD Bucket with Rock Teeth, will not dig out virgin clay soil. The soil must be loosened first with the MiniHoe, Potato Digger, or Stump Grinder! Piled clay soil, loose rocks, sand, gravel, crushed stone, mulch - great! Virgin clay soil, even without rocks or roots - no way!

The Potato digger is also good at pulling up roots, and popping out rocks.


</font>
 
   / Yet another attachments question #6  
I've been using my tiller as a means to break up the dirt for my LM bucket. I have the 180 and as you can probably guess with only 18 HP and less weight digging into virgin soil is next to impossible.

I have found it pretty quick (a very relative term mind you) to swap between bucket and tiller. Also, when I till I don't till fully as I would for gardening but just a quick run forward (tilted up for very little depth) then drop the depth a little and back it back out of the same section - switch to the bucket and pick up that area and repeat the process. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

As others have said buy as much as you can afford but don't stress about not being able to afford the next model. A little ingenuity goes a long way with a PT. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Yet another attachments question #7  
I have used the trencher to break up soil. It works great. With a PT you use several attachments to accomplish the job. Since it is so easy to change them this is not a problem.
I actually used the trencher to dig a small pond.

Bob Rip
 
   / Yet another attachments question #8  
Works good going forward or backward for loosening clay soil to be removed with the bucket. Easy to fabricate..

sg
 

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   / Yet another attachments question #9  
Clarke,

Can you explain your attachment. Do you use it in forward by removing the pin and reversing the ripper?

I have been using my potato digger to rip the soil before rotortilling it. It cuts the rotor time by more then 50%. My soil is hard packed clay with lots of rocks. I need to go over with rotor tiller three or more times just to get down to 5 inches. Ripping with the potato digger will break it up to about 8-10 inches deep and then I got over with tiller to break up the chunks and turn under the grass. Breaaking the soil first then tilling still saves a lot of time over multiple passes with the rotor tillers.

My problem is that I still can't steer a straight line in reverse so I don't dare get too close to fences, building, or plants I don't want dug up or run over. It would be great to go forward so I can see what I am doing.
 
   / Yet another attachments question #10  
It's a ripper shank used on a KK box blade welded to a plate. I use it to loosen my clay soil. I do not reverse the blade I just drive forward and backward in the area and loosen the soil about 4" at a time. I do not have a potato digger attachment to compare it with. It does a good job for me since I am doing a lot of grade changing and putting the base in for a drive to the new garage I am building..

I only set it about 4 to 5 inches deep per pass and have not had a problem going straight. When I use it going forward it's not quite as efficient.

sg
 

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