xj 2025 hydraulic problem

[Scojen7]

Old lurker now with a xj2025 with hydraulic problems about after an hour here in 90+ florida rpm and hydraulic dies frequently I assume its a hydraulic problem unless the pto or front loader is under a load. This is 2 years old with 200+ hours. All filters hyd and hst have been changed and oil changed. If you have any idea of having this I sure would like to know.

 

[Walter L]

Sounds like a pump problem but it should be coveredunder the warenty.

 

[tomplum]

RPM and hydraulic dies? Meaning engine cuts out or?

 

[hturner12]

When I had hydraulics problems found a bunch of loose fittings if it on the presuure side leak. If on the suction side sucking air. When I had a fuel issue it was the valve soliendoid between the tank and filter and some loose clamps. Check your fuel filter for water. Check all your hose clamps. Dont assume they are tight because you dont see a leak. See if you can twist the fuel lines again air can get in when fluid can not get out. You may have to bleed the injector pump if you have air. Crack one of the injector lines at the pump and crank over till you get solid fuel. Just be aware of the starter cycle.

 

[papachaz]

When I had hydraulics problems found a bunch of loose fittings if it on the presuure side leak. If on the suction side sucking air. When I had a fuel issue it was the valve soliendoid between the tank and filter and some loose clamps. Check your fuel filter for water. Check all your hose clamps. Dont assume they are tight because you dont see a leak. See if you can twist the fuel lines again air can get in when fluid can not get out. You may have to bleed the injector pump if you have air. Crack one of the injector lines at the pump and crank over till you get solid fuel. Just be aware of the starter cycle.

don't these have an a bleeder built in to get the air out of the fuel lines?

 

[hturner12]

don't these have an a bleeder built in to get the air out of the fuel lines?

I have to bleed mine twice once when I got a bunch of water in fuel and this last time when I had that fuel problem and had no fuel in the IP. A normal filter change should not be a problem, however if you are sucking air you will have an air bubble that you have to get rid of.

 

[Scojen7]

OK turns out the fan on the drive shaft was missing the blades they insist that the problem was solved guess what it is still doing it. I checked the fluids thatI am still leaning that the pump is failing due to the heat thinning out the viscosity of the oil with it crapping out after about an hour does any one have a manual on this other than the operators and where does one give me the operating psi where to tap tocheck this psi issue.

 

[hturner12]

OK turns out the fan on the drive shaft was missing the blades they insist that the problem was solved guess what it is still doing it. I checked the fluids thatI am still leaning that the pump is failing due to the heat thinning out the viscosity of the oil with it crapping out after about an hour does any one have a manual on this other than the operators and where does one give me the operating psi where to tap tocheck this psi issue.

Your dealer about 350 for the manual

 

[hturner12]

Unless the 20 is differant than the 30 the only driveshaft is for the front differnitial. The fan blades are cooilng and is belt driven.
I run mine hard. As I stated before I had a hyd problem (steering was hard). There is only one hyd pump it is gear driven of the engines on the left side. The problem was loose lines on the suction side.
I had a fuel problem of loosing rpms. The valve between the tank and filter went bad, viberation had loosened the clamps enough to let air in but not fuel out.

What the **** I know nothing just a former ASE master truck mechanic. Had similar problem you d3cribe

 

[Scojen7]

OK the 20 is inline with the drive shaft. Now today is a wonderful Florida day low 80's mild breezy. Temp on the water is approximately 30% on the gauge. Yet again it's bogging out. The radiator screen is clean it got so bad the thing would barely go up a very small hill. I maintain its still the pump. Me, now old retired toolmaker, USAF 69*74 mos A4371C qorked for the navys after at NNSY Portmouths Va. hydraulic tech with pumps big enough to pick up airplanes and pnuematic systems bedded so deep on sub surface systems the rats wouldn't go. last a Tool & Die with the NARF in Norfolk plus CNC and programming. I kinda now with the mech at the store not getting my point across. And so it goes back to the shop.

 

[hturner12]

OK the 20 is inline with the drive shaft. Now today is a wonderful Florida day low 80's mild breezy. Temp on the water is approximately 30% on the gauge. Yet again it's bogging out. The radiator screen is clean it got so bad the thing would barely go up a very small hill. I maintain its still the pump. Me, now old retired toolmaker, USAF 69*74 mos A4371C qorked for the navys after at NNSY Portmouths Va. hydraulic tech with pumps big enough to pick up airplanes and pnuematic systems bedded so deep on sub surface systems the rats wouldn't go. last a Tool & Die with the NARF in Norfolk plus CNC and programming. I kinda now with the mech at the store not getting my point across. And so it goes back to the shop.

Have you change your fuel filter? Look at the ootom of the filter for water. It does not take much water to kill performances. Check your clamps with a socket not screwdriver. That was my problem in a diesel you can get air and not see a leak. Crack one line at the injector pump try to start the tractor you will know if it air you should get a steady flow of fuel It may or may not start if it does as soon as you see a steady stream tighen the line. If it does not start crank till you see the steady stream just dont overheat the starter.
Since I did that I have not had engine problems

The factory does not do a good job on tighten clamps. When I had my steering problem like you I was leaning toward pump, till I started checking every clamp and fitting. One was on the big line under the tractor another at the pump I had no leaks. Check the fittings under the joystick for the bucket I changed the fluid way early it was very dark.

I was a B52 crew chief.

On this tractor the KIS formula is at it best.

 

[jdom84]

I'm having a hard time understanding the issue... It bogs the engine after the fluid gets hot or the hydraulics quit working? it bogs when trying to go up hills? It works fine when the PTO or Loader is being used?

Not sure how thinning fluids will cause a pump to bog the engine, instead it would have less load on the engine. but If you have a stuck pressure relief valve and something else blocking the hydro fluid return then it might bog or kill the engine. Also a stuck valve or restriction in a hydraulic system will cause extreme heat. Is the three point working correctly?

Just a guess here and I assume you are saying it bogs/kills the engine when you are trying to move the tractor. And if I understand correctly, your dealer said it was missing the fan blades on the shaft from the engine to the HST? If you have been running an HST with out a fan for 200 hours, the HST is probably toast.

 

[Scojen7]

"It bogs the engine after the fluid gets hot or the hydraulics quit working? it bogs when trying to go up hills? It works fine when the PTO or Loader is being used? " All functions in all PTO and loader
" Is the three point working correctly? " Yes

Just a guess here and I assume you are saying it bogs/kills the engine when you are trying to move the tractor. And if I understand correctly, your dealer said it was missing the fan blades on the shaft from the engine to the HST? If you have been running an HST with out a fan for 200 hours, the HST is probably toast.

More like 10 hrs the 200 was a warranty service.

 

[Scojen7]

Ok the problem still exist I would like to locate the hydraulic pump on the tractor it is a hst model.

 

[JCoastie]

I need 3 posts to post a link, so lets try this...

 

[JCoastie]

pg 62 https://www.rcotractor.com/fckimages/PDFs/ls-tractor-manuals/XJ 2025 OP Manual.pdf