Woods SGT60 Rototiller Repair Project

[KubotaTomR]

I have a Woods SGT60 rototiller made in Italy in 1998. It started to leak oil from the seals near the gear case. There are three gears for the drive unit. I was able to remove the center gear by driving bolts (14mm) thru the threaded holes in the gear. The bolts pushed against the gear case forcing the gear toward the end of the short shaft, which is part of the gear case, and off. The center gear has a bearing which actually fits on the shaft.
The top and bottom gears are trouble. The top is attached to the drive shaft; the bottom to the tiller tines shaft. Both have drive threads as the center gear, but if I drive bolts through them, I would be driving the bolts right into the bearings for shafts. I put steel plates behind the gear in an effort to protect the bearings, but they do not budge when I drive the bolts through. The top and bottom gears have three keys on each shaft. Any thoughts on how to get these gears off without destroying anything? Is there something special about these Italian made units?
I could only find a part diagram for this tiller; not a service manual.
The gears have to come off in order to get the gear case off and get to the rest of the parts on the shaft.
My next step might be to heat the gear, but not looking forward to that.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I read Maletti made tillers for Woods and that is now Kverneland.

 

[Harry in Ky]

So the gears have threaded holes in them? Evenly spaced? The end of the shaft is open, clearly visible and there appears to be no reason why the gears shouldn't slide off the shafts?

Have you considered a bolt type puller? Maybe something like this, maybe heavier yet if require? I have an assortment of pullers, this type included. Different sizes, some heavier than others. One or the other will often do the job.

Amazon.com

 

[KubotaTomR]

So the gears have threaded holes in them? Evenly spaced? The end of the shaft is open, clearly visible and there appears to be no reason why the gears shouldn't slide off the shafts?

Have you considered a bolt type puller? Maybe something like this, maybe heavier yet if require? I have an assortment of pullers, this type included. Different sizes, some heavier than others. One or the other will often do the job.

Amazon.com

Thanks for your reply.

Yes, yes, and yes to first paragraph.

Yes and yes to second paragraph. I used a bolt type puller like you referred to in your link. Plus a larger base. The bases only fit on one gear, the smallest one. (top gear). The distance between the two threaded holes was larger than the base openings. I tightened the drive bolt as much as I thought I could without it breaking. A homemade bolt type puller broke when used. (I need better welding skills.)
The threaded holes in two gears are 14mm x 2.00, the top gear has 10mm x 1.25 (maybe 1.50) threaded holes.

 

[Harry in Ky]

If you can't get enough force using the threaded holes without fear of breaking the bolts, then I would be looking at using jaw type pullers and pulling from the outside of the gear instead. (if there's room to fit puller jaws inside the case) You can apply much more force that way than with a bolt puller.

Heat would be my last choice, because of obviously more collateral damage.

 

[KubotaTomR]

If you can't get enough force using the threaded holes without fear of breaking the bolts, then I would be looking at using jaw type pullers and pulling from the outside of the gear instead. (if there's room to fit puller jaws inside the case) You can apply much more force that way than with a bolt puller.

Heat would be my last choice, because of obviously more collateral damage.

I have access to one of these types. I will check tomorrow to see if it fits and give it a try. It may work on the smaller gear. I skeptical about the larger one, but I'll see. Thanks.

 

[Harry in Ky]

The universal type probably won't fit with the case in the way. I'm thinking more of the custom fit type. I have the whole assortment of these, and usually can find at least one set of jaws that I make work. With this type you can slip the jaws up one at a time and then assemble the puller in place.

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[KubotaTomR]

I decided against using that type gear puller as the jaws just garb the very outer edge of the gear.
I made a new puller today and expect to try it tomorrow. Does anybody see a reason why these gears should not pull off? There was a bolt with large washer threaded into the ends of each shaft. This prevented the gear from working it's way off the shaft. There are no set screws.
The new puller is for the bottom gear. The two outside bolts will thread into the gear. The drive bolt will press again the shaft. I have a small spacer to protect the internal thread on the shaft. As the bolt is turned it will drive the nut against the frame of the puller thus forcing the two outside bolts to pull the gear off the shaft. I hope it has enough strength to not bend.
If this works I'll make a version for the top gear.

 

[Harry in Ky]

I see no such reason. It looks to me like they should come off easily enough. Other than the fact they've been on there a long time. Things like that tend to bond over the years, even though the housing is lubricated. Having three keys adds to it, as the keys tend to fit tighter in the keyways than the gear does on the shaft. It certainly looks like the bolt puller idea was what the engineers were shooting for.

If you make your tool strong enough, the weakest link will be the two bolts.

 

[Halftrack]

What surprises me is the fact the keyways are not continuous through the drive shafts. It could be they are notched into the drive shafts and when you pull the gear, it is wedging the keys between the two. Put some pull on the gear, then with a punch, tap the keys in to prevent the binding. Good luck.

 

[Mud2Money]

Could you use a piece of all thread in the center shaft. Then bolt a strap across the gear with a hole in the center for the all thread. Have a nut below the strap and drive it off and away from the bearings.