Woods Rotary Bush Hog Gear Box

[KS KIOTI]

There I was minding my own business, not doing anything wrong, when the gearbox started to shimmy, shake and then brake and not bake!

Woods 13252 gearbox replacement is what’s on the menu. Near impossible to find.

Have Google Fu’d it. Messicks etc etc.

Contacted Woods, awaiting reply same with local dealers.

It’s an oldie but a goodie.

Anybody have any suggestions from the cheap seats?

 

[Harry in Ky]

What's it look like? Is this a single spindle rotary cutter?

 

[KS KIOTI]

Thanks for the quick reply Harry!

Here are some pics from the interwebs, mine is under the cover of darkness right now, as I walked away from it for the night, hoping by morning it would fix itself!

 

[KS KIOTI]

The shaft that the blades attach to has bearings that grenaded in the inside. I haven’t opened it up for further surgery. I’d think I could get all the internal seals and bearings to replace the damaged parts, but don’t have the faintest clue what would go where. The take apart is easy, the go back apart and then actually work correctly is the conundrum.

 

[KS KIOTI]

Andddd lastly to answer, it’s a dual (to me) gear box, one on each side for the blades, and one in the middle to run the two on the outsides. It’s a 10 footer.

 

[KS KIOTI]

 

[KS KIOTI]

Bought at an auction, old yeller it was, gave’r the ol’ aerosol overhaul to triple the value to match the tractor.

 

[John0829]

I had an old Howes bush hog that used that same gear box and it did the same thing yours did, lower bearing said screw it I'm done.

Anyway it was an easy fix with new bearings and seals, nothing unusual about the way they go together. As long as the housing and shaft is not damaged/ruined I would just repair what you have in hand and probably be a lot cheaper to that as well.

 

[Harry in Ky]

The shaft that the blades attach to has bearings that grenaded in the inside. I haven’t opened it up for further surgery. I’d think I could get all the internal seals and bearings to replace the damaged parts, but don’t have the faintest clue what would go where. The take apart is easy, the go back apart and then actually work correctly is the conundrum.

Actually, the take apart is not all that easy. Having been through a number of that style boxes I know what you're facing. Yes, bearings, seals, shims, even shafts and gears are available, but they don't just slide off and on. There are tricks involved. Some of the bearings can be pressed off, some need to be cut off. Assembling the box needs to be done in a sequence, and I do it with a press handy. Not sure how you would do it effectively without one. The diagram below may (or may not) be your exact part number box but it's probably a 1 : 1.35 gearbox and close enough for explanation purposes. The sleeve (item 9) on the shaft you mentioned needs to be replaced and installed hot, not pressed cold. At least that's how I've always done it. It goes on after the shaft and bearings are installed and adjusted for preload. I set the bearing preload by feel, doing the hollow shaft first, without seals, and once the shims are determined take it out and set it aside. Press the first bearing (item 5) onto the solid shaft, insert the shaft and bearing into the box and the box goes in the press with the gear end of the shaft supported on the press bed with box free to turn on the bearing. I press the second bearing onto the shaft using a piece of appropriately sized tubing. Press it down until the proper preload is achieved. Sometimes that takes some "adjustment" to get the "feel" I'm looking for. Once that's done heat the sleeve and drop it onto the shaft so it bottoms against the bearing. Let that cool and check the "feel" of the bearings again. Then the hollow shaft goes back in and if it all feels right the seals go in.

The cross bar (blade holder) also has shims involved. Should you decide to do all this with the gearbox I can explain the process for that. Hopefully the link will work and diagram will come through.

Spindle Gearbox 1.35:1 Assembly

Parts list and parts diagram for a O121-1 Multi-Spindle Cutter Spindle Gearbox 1.35:1 Assembly

store.germanbliss.com

 

[KS KIOTI]

Harry you are a magician! That is super useful info and the schematic is spot on! Much obliged for the thorough explanation!

Surgery was performed and it looked fairly straightforward, until I seen some chipped teeth, soooo there’s that!

Local dealer has what I need, will be making an order and checking it twice.

Should a fella wanna buy a new gearbox, just rummage around in the seat cushions for bout $2200.00, woof!

 

[KS KIOTI]

I had an old Howes bush hog that used that same gear box and it did the same thing yours did, lower bearing said screw it I'm done.

Anyway it was an easy fix with new bearings and seals, nothing unusual about the way they go together. As long as the housing and shaft is not damaged/ruined I would just repair what you have in hand and probably be a lot cheaper to that as well.

thank ya!

 

[Harry in Ky]

Just guessing but there's a good chance the bottom seal was leaking so rather than fix the problem someone pumped it full of grease and kept running it. How many times have I seen that? It's not necessarily the wrong solution, I've done it myself. The thing is it's not too effective if the bearings aren't still tight. The shims under the blade holder are part of the package to maintain the integrity of the bearing adjustment, so don't overlook that part when you get that point.

 

[KS KIOTI]

Good call, betchu are right. It was packed full of cosmoline.

 

[Smokeydog]

I’ve got a single spindle 286 I bought used that needs the same. Bad seal on a little used mower. Previous one lasted 25 years without a leak. Assembly with correct bearing preload the key to long seal life. Haven’t tackled the rebuild job. Would be a major accomplishment given my skill set. Do have a leaky shop press.

 

[RayIN]

The bottom seal on my King Kutter 6'er was leaking badly, so I filled it with 15W40 diesel oil, and ran it lightly for a while, adding oil as needed. The seal stopped leaking(softened up I guess) and the gearbox remained full. Pumped out the oil with a hand suction pump then filled it with chainsaw bar lube. It's remained full for 3 years so far, without making any noises.

 

[rockinbbar]

Good call, betchu are right. It was packed full of cosmoline.

May be that it was filled with corn head 00wt grease.

That's what I use when I can on my gear boxes, (and have quite a few gear boxes).

As a side note, I'm glad you found your gear box, as it's quite expensive to buy a new, high quality cutter... just paid $30k for one, so I know.

Be sure and check the other gear boxes when you can. New lubricant wouldn't hurt.... bearings and seals are cheaper than gear boxes, and if you had one fail on the cutter, I'd sure look at the others.

 

[KS KIOTI]

May be that it was filled with corn head 00wt grease.

That's what I use when I can on my gear boxes, (and have quite a few gear boxes).

As a side note, I'm glad you found your gear box, as it's quite expensive to buy a new, high quality cutter... just paid $30k for one, so I know.

Be sure and check the other gear boxes when you can. New lubricant wouldn't hurt.... bearings and seals are cheaper than gear boxes, and if you had one fail on the cutter, I'd sure look at the others.

Good call RBB! $30k

 

[coast40]

Surplus Center has an assortment of cutter gearboxes $200-400. I know nothing about the boxes. I have ordered other items from them. Omni Gear | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com