Woods brushbull 60 Blade change

[bubbu55]

I have a woods brushbull 60. It's about 7 years old and it's time to change the blades. I heard that the new models have pins for the blades instead of bolted on. Does anyone know if I could use the pins on my unit instead of bolting it back on? That would make it so much easier.

 

[pacerron]

I have a woods brushbull 60. It's about 7 years old and it's time to change the blades. I heard that the new models have pins for the blades instead of bolted on. Does anyone know if I could use the pins on my unit instead of bolting it back on? That would make it so much easier.

I don't know about your model, but I have a Woods M-72 with a stump jumper that is 20 years old and it has pins, so pins are nothing new.
The blades swing free on the pins to a point so if you hit something the blade is less likely to be damaged. There is an access plate on top of the deck at the radius where the pins are. You use a socket wrench on an extension through the hole to loosen a half round pin lock. Then the pins just pull out.
You can go to Woods on line and look at parts lists and diagrams to see if your model will work with pins either for it or from another model.
Woods Equipment Company: Parts

 

[bubbu55]

Mine swing free also, so I assume they are pins, but mine have a nut on them with access through the top deck. Manual says to apply 400 ft. lbs when tightening. Wow.

 

[LouieJunior]

I change mine every spring. Once you've done it, it becomes an easy task. I use a tire iron 3/4 inch which makes it easy to loosen and tighten the nut. A ratchet was difficult for me since the nut is in a moveable disk -- tended to rotate the blades. The tire iron also reaches easily into the access hole. I do have to pivot the gauge wheel out of the way first.

 

[bubbu55]

What type of tire iron are you using? Is it one of those four way jobs? Also what gauge wheel are you talking about? Is your unit a Woods Brushbull?

 

[LouieJunior]

What type of tire iron are you using? Is it one of those four way jobs? Also what gauge wheel are you talking about? Is your unit a Woods Brushbull?

Yes, the tire iron is a big cross with a different size hex at each end. I also use this tool when I need to separate a drive shaft from a gearbox. You can apply a lot of torque without rotating the "wheel". My mower is Woods MD160. 60 inches with a stump jumper. The single gauge wheel swings up and out of the way to get at the access plate. The mower is 16 years old, takes a lot of abuse and keeps on ticking.

 

[bubbu55]

I see now. Mine is just a newer style Woods. I don't have that tail wheel assembly like yours. Well thanks for the info, I don't know if I can find a tire iron to use because the nuts on the blade pin is 1" 3/4. Thanks

 

[pacerron]

I see now. Mine is just a newer style Woods. I don't have that tail wheel assembly like yours. Well thanks for the info, I don't know if I can find a tire iron to use because the nuts on the blade pin is 1" 3/4. Thanks

According to the manual the nut is 1-11/16ths. http://www.colemanequip.com/manuals/Woods-BBStandardDuty.pdf

I was wondering how they held the pin from turning when you tried to get the nut loose, so I looked it up. It appears there is a keyway in the hole and a key on the pin to line up..
You will need a large breaker bar for the socket ( probably a 1" drive ) to break loose the nuts, even though they are supposed to have Never-Seez on them. Seven years of dried up grass on the nut and threaded stub and being tightened to 450 ft pds. may take some soaking in PB first.
Be careful.

 

[bubbu55]

Yes they are keyed. Your right I went out and measured the nut and it is 1-11/16ths. I put the PB right to it and I'm going to let it soak for awhile and spray it again. I know it's going to take alot of banging around to get them loose.

 

[RickB]

According to the manual the nut is 1-11/16ths. http://www.colemanequip.com/manuals/Woods-BBStandardDuty.pdf

I was wondering how they held the pin from turning when you tried to get the nut loose, so I looked it up. It appears there is a keyway in the hole and a key on the pin to line up..
You will need a large breaker bar for the socket ( probably a 1" drive ) to break loose the nuts, even though they are supposed to have Never-Seez on them. Seven years of dried up grass on the nut and threaded stub and being tightened to 450 ft pds. may take some soaking in PB first.
Be careful.

The factory does not put never-seize on those blade bolts. Not Woods, not Bush Hog, not LandPride, nor do they claim to. It should be manditory, and every rotary cutter owner should have some available. Bush Hog makes a blade bolt wrench that fits blade nuts of all 3 mentioned brands where 1-11/16" nuts are used. The blade wrench and a large pipe wrench and maybe a cheater pipe will do a fine job on those blade bolts. Much less cost than if you have no need for the rest of a 3/4 drive set and already have a pipe wrench 18" or 24" long. Bush Hog part #6432BH should run about $60.