Chipper Woods 5000 Chipper
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GregJ
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Hard to really determine if that's a good price or not. It all depends on how much it was used and how it was used. The price sounds reasonable though. I have the Bearcat 70554, which is just the same as the Woods. It's a great combo with the B7500. I don't think you would be disappointed. I don't know anything about sumac, but if you keep your blades sharp, I'm sure it will do just fine.
Greg
Greg
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Also, is it OK to chip/shred Sumac? )</font>
I'm guessing you're talking about "poison" sumac, and it's like poison ivy, and oak. It's not advisable to chip it or burn it as the oils are very irritating and anyone who is allergic will be susceptible. Burning it can cause a systemic reaction as the smoke gets into the lungs and this can be very serious. The oils will remain on all your equipment and possibly infect someone for from 1 to 5 years if you don't clean it off completely with something like mineral spirits. Probably would be best to kill the sumac with herbicides and then carefully dispose of it. Cutting it with a chain saw may cause the operator to get plenty of the oils on his/her person, so I'd try to kill it, let it dry out and then carefully break it up and dispose of it either in bags or however your city handles yard wastes. Remember that the killed plant can still infect. John
I'm guessing you're talking about "poison" sumac, and it's like poison ivy, and oak. It's not advisable to chip it or burn it as the oils are very irritating and anyone who is allergic will be susceptible. Burning it can cause a systemic reaction as the smoke gets into the lungs and this can be very serious. The oils will remain on all your equipment and possibly infect someone for from 1 to 5 years if you don't clean it off completely with something like mineral spirits. Probably would be best to kill the sumac with herbicides and then carefully dispose of it. Cutting it with a chain saw may cause the operator to get plenty of the oils on his/her person, so I'd try to kill it, let it dry out and then carefully break it up and dispose of it either in bags or however your city handles yard wastes. Remember that the killed plant can still infect. John
Boondox
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John -- I think he's talking about the regular sumac we have in the northeast (maybe other places too). Tufts of leaves on the end of long woody stalks. Turns bright red in fall. Really benign stuff. Not like the poison sumac I was painfully introduced to out west.
Pete
Pete
Thanks for the input....I am talking about what I hope is the less severe tree type sumac. I really have a lot of them, and I live on a remote mountain, so there really isn't any other way to dispose of them. I have 13 acres and I could never get them all with herbicide, so I was thinking that chipping would help. I am a bit sensitive to the trees, and I get small itchy bumps, but never a full breakout like poison ivy.
Boone
Gold Member
If you break out a little, I'd recommend caution handling the sumac. A call to your university extension office horticulturalist/tree specialist might be a worth the time.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I am a bit sensitive to the trees, and I get small itchy bumps, but never a full breakout like poison ivy. )</font>
Then I would make sure to have on gloves taped to long sleeves so that none of the juice will get on you. Then make sure you wash down the chipper with mineral spirits to get of the residue. If you've had any reaction at all, imagine after chipping how much Sumac juice would probably be available. Allergies work on amount of material and exposure time, so a lot more juice can result in a lot more reaction. Be careful and good luck with getting rid of them. John
Then I would make sure to have on gloves taped to long sleeves so that none of the juice will get on you. Then make sure you wash down the chipper with mineral spirits to get of the residue. If you've had any reaction at all, imagine after chipping how much Sumac juice would probably be available. Allergies work on amount of material and exposure time, so a lot more juice can result in a lot more reaction. Be careful and good luck with getting rid of them. John
Darren
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Sumac is a very soft wood. I've never run sumac through my Woods 5000, but I'm sure it would make short work of the stuff. The smaller stuff I'd drop into the hopper instead of chipping it. Just remember to let go before the hammer mill gets it. Otherwise it's going to bang your arm against the hopper lip. It sucks the material down fast.
I wouldn't bid over the $2,250 price. The one I found at a dealer went for $1,500 plus freight.
I wouldn't bid over the $2,250 price. The one I found at a dealer went for $1,500 plus freight.
texbaylea
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I paid $2300 for a Woods 5000 2 yr ago then $800 for the blower last year. The local dealers have a reputation for being high though. If you are shredding something that you are reactive to, get the blower and send it away from you. Also watch the wind direction. Dumping at your feet is going to get all over your shoes and ankles. You may also want to add a canvas chute to the end of the blower to keep it confined. I am not reactive to poison oak, ivy or sumac but I still take precautions.
Vernon
Vernon