woodpiles

   / woodpiles #1  

fractal

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2001
Messages
333
Location
santa barbara, ca
Tractor
kubota b7200hst
I have the oportunity to pick up a half cord of not-quite cured oak for under market prices and figured I would build a wood pile to age it. Since a half cord is a stack of wood 8 ft long by 4 ft high by 2 ft deep, and most of what I have bought from this guy is much less than 2 ft long, I was kinda figuring on something about 12 ft long and 4 ft tall to handle the 12 to 18 inch logs. I have read that you should keep your wood pile a bit away from the house to keep vermin away, the wood pile should allow good ventilation but should provide protection from rain (snow is not a problem here in southern california). I have a nice spot picked out along the fence line for the pile about 25 ft from the house where the prevous owner had his wood pile on the ground. This is about where I decided to ask some advice from folk who may have done this in the past.

My thinking was to either to put down two 12 ft pressure treated 2x4's about a foot apart to allow air under the stack or maybe to get some old pallets and let them rot. The main thing I haven't worked out is how to contain the pile. I was thinking of digging a single post hole and planting a 4x4 at either end of the pile for support. I would do this center line between the 2x4's. On the other hand, the commercial wood stand I bought for the patio has two uprights just outside the horizontal supports which might suggest I put two uprights a little over a foot apart to keep the pile from "twisting" out of the verticals. I plan on using some old aluminum patio cover panels to keep the rain off the woodpile.

My questions to the forum is.. is a single pole sufficient to contain the wood pile? Is pressure treated wood that much better than old pallets for letting air into the pile? Lastly, can I reasonably expect the wood to dry enough to burn this winter even though it will probably start raining pretty serious around here in january time frame? I did buy a mixed cord (1/3 oak, 2/3 avo) to hold me a while but if last winter is any example, that won't hold me till spring.

I have tried to convince the CFO that digging these holes is a reason to buy a post hole digger for the kubota but she isn't buying it. I guess saving 20 bucks on the half cord by buying it green doesn't justify 500 on a power tool :) That means that any post holes will have to be dug by hand in our lovely clay, so I am hoping that a single pole on either end will work. Can anyone suggest a better solution?
 
   / woodpiles #2  
Make sure you factor in the cost of getting your chimney swept out in the Spring if you burn it green. You'll also get plenty of entertainment from embers popping out of the fire!I'd suggest leaving it a year to dry - plenty of old-timers around me that won't burn for 2 years.

Regarding the 4x4 posts - depends on the wood you have. It should be fine. The wood I get delivered is usually all straight logs - so it stacks easily - but some guys will deliver you stuff where every piece is 'L' shaped. I generally don't ever use them again and it is a pain to stack.

Patrick
 
   / woodpiles #3  
You can stack it without a post. At the ends lay each row at right angles to the previous row. Those in between just go across the the 4x4's.
Or if you use pallets stand one vertical at each end and brace it. Then stack the wood the width of the pallets in between the two vertical ones.
 
   / woodpiles #4  
I use peelts to hold the "cord" of wood. I use steel posts, four at each end of the pellet, two for each 1/2 face cord. Then wire between the post the length of the pile to hole the logs in place and the posts. Make sure the wood is split, if it is split, it will be ready to burn in 6 to 8 weeks. If it is not split, it will be ready to burn in 6 years!!!

What you bought is called a face cord. 8 feet long, 4 feet high and the width is the as wide as the wood is cut. About the only way they sell wood any more. The cord costs more than you were charged.

Dan L
 
   / woodpiles #5  
I agree with your boss, no sense spending $500 dollars on a post hole digger to save $50 on green-wood.

I couldn't even justify spending the $30 or $40 on the pressure treated 2x12's. Around here, pallets are cheap (free) and plentiful. If I can't find pallets I cut down some 3-4" hemlock or swamp maple to stack on, or even stack directly on the ground. If the goal is to save a little money, spedning money to stack the "sale" wood, doesn't make sense.
 
   / woodpiles #6  
Here in Vermont where we heat exclusively with wood we begrudge any money spent on the stacking of said wood. Generally old pallets (free) are used to keep it off the ground. I prefer Egon's way of standing end pallets on edge and bracing them upright with a hunk of scrap metal. You can also make the stack self-supporting by use of chimneys (sort of a cross-hatch of wood pieces on either end of the stack; described in Egon's message also), but if the chimney shifts the whole pile can go over. Being a lazy sort, I prefer not to repeat my work.

Oak is great firewood, but it's very dense. Around here we give it a full two years of drying before using it for heat. Otherwise the creosote buildup in your stove or fireplace can build up quickly and create a fire danger.

Pete

www.GatewayToVermont.com
 
   / woodpiles #7  
Re: woodpiles/chimney cleaning

Speaking of chimneys, I need to clean mine this fall. Anyone have recommended approachs? My dad used to just use a long heavy chain and swing it back and forth in the chimney to knock off the loose stuff...is this still a recommended approach? I also have a 5inch wide brush on a ten foot pole that was made to clean dtove pipe, but it won't reach the whole chimney.

In previous times I would have called somone in to do it for me, but I am no longer spending any money I don't have to...
 
   / woodpiles #8  
I burn about 4 cords a year, and stack all the wood on pallets. the scrap pallets I get are low grade oak, and last at least 3 years.

I drive a steel T fencing post at each end, and brace that post with another T post driven in at an angle, and wire the intersection togethor with some scrap wire works great, and costs $4 per end support, and takes less than 5 minutes.
 
   / woodpiles #9  
Re: woodpiles/chimney cleaning

ejb, when I lived in a house with a fireplace, I also had a swimming pool. I had a telescoping aluminum pole to which I could attach a brush or net for cleaning the pool. I found a big square wire brush that would also fit on that pole, let my drop light down the chimney at the same time so I could see everything down there and cleaning the chimney was no problem at all. Of course, I don't know how tall your chimney is, so I don't know whether that would work for you.

Bird
 
   / woodpiles #10  
Fractal,

When I was burning a lot of wood, I used to stack it on two long poles cut from straight limbs or saplings. This works fine if you don't have access to pallets.

A couple of t-posts on each end will contain the pile. If a novice tries to make end-stacks they will usually fall over at the most inopportune time. Say, in the middle of a 6" wet snowfall./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif


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