Wood splitter had. cylinder dis assembly

[Jim Nelson]

I picked up an old Duerr 20 Ton splitter with a bad engine a while back and have been re building it. So far I replaced the trashed Briggs with a Yanmar clone diesel,installed a 2 stage pump and replaced the control valve. The had. cylinder has a small leak around the ram that makes a mess over time and I would like to repair it but can't figure out how to get into it.Instead of a threaded end cap it is an aluminum cap held in place with a big snap ring which was pretty much seized up because the groove was full of crud.I've flushed it out with PB Blaster and can now move it but can't budge the cap.I built a rig to fit over the end of the ram and apply pressure with a port power but it won't budge.
Has anyone had any experience with one of these? I'm sure I'm missing something pretty simple but can't see it yet.
Thanks
Jim

 

[LD1]

The snap ring is out right?

 

[Jim Nelson]

No, the snap ring is in a large groove in the cap and locks into a groove in the cylinder. There is a D shaped cut out in the outer part of the cap that allows access to the ends of the snap ring.After flushing these grooves out I can now squeeze the ends of the snap ring together but I can't move the cap.
Well I've tried to add a photo but can't get it done.

 

[Steave]

No, the snap ring is in a large groove in the cap and locks into a groove in the cylinder. There is a D shaped cut out in the outer part of the cap that allows access to the ends of the snap ring.After flushing these grooves out I can now squeeze the ends of the snap ring together but I can't move the cap.
Well I've tried to add a photo but can't get it done.

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A picture sure would help and I'm not sure but it sounds like the type cylinder you take the lock ring completely off then with a small rod or maybe a screwdriver push the inside part that the rod passes through into the cylinder about a 1/2" or so and it'll expose another ring attached to the cylinder wall. After removing that ring the rod and other parts will then come out of the cylinder all in one piece. The outside lock ring actually holds the inside part from going in. The inside ring holds the part from coming out.

To reinstall you have to push the inside part into the cylinder far enough to install the inside ring. You will have to get the inside part to come back out far enough to get the outside lock ring back on. The way I do that is with air pressure into the port hole on the cylinder. If you have the inside ring in place when you do the air pressure it will stop and not go out to far. Make sure you have the inside ring on before moving the cylinder with air or make sure you have everything secure otherwise it may jump out of the cylinder with a bit of a force.

You can probably tell I'm not very good at explaining what to do but hope this helps and maybe somebody can explain it better.

 

[Jim Nelson]

Thank you,I'm not much with computers but have posted pics here before without so much trouble and will keep trying.Maybe I can get the neighbor kid to help me. The snap ring is captive in the end plug which I believe is called a gland, and you cannot remove the snap ring without sliding the gland at least part way out of the cylinder . I'm sure this little log splitter company used someone else cylinder and I was just hoping someone had seen one of this type. This appears to be a cheaper way of building a cylinder by saving cutting threads in the bore of the cylinder.
I've tried to post pic again,no luck,maybe a better description of this part is comparing it to a yo-yo with the snap ring in the groove where the string goes. The seals are in the half that is deeper in the cylinder and there is a portion of the outer half machined out in a D shape that exposes the ends of the snap ring. This assembly is inserted in the cylinder about a half inch deep with a groove in the bore of the cylinder for the snap ring to lock into.

 

[wdchyd]

Jim, I am very familiar to that design.....those are a bear if the snap ring doesn't completely come out of the groove.

Make sure the gland first is able to spin in the cyl bore, then use snap ring pliers the retract the ring completely, then have the cyl extended all the way out and have someone smack it out at the same time.

If the ring doesn't cooperate or breaks the ear off then you'll need an acetylene torch to heat/soften the ring and dig out one side while turning the gland to unwrap the ring from its groove
A very poor design but easy for the mfg'er to make

 

[Jim Nelson]

Thank you,this is what I was hoping for. I have some more for to do as the gland won't budge yet so need to flush more.

 

[Steave]

KEY PART NO. PART NAME QTY
1 JD7806 LUBRICATION FITTING 1
2 AW25293 HYDRAULIC CYLINDER BARREL
3 P45231 LOCK NUT 1
4 E17411 WASHER 1
5 R30200 O-RING 1
6 AW21652 PISTON 1
7 U10289 O-RING 1
8 T42763 GUIDE 1
9 P50631 O-RING 1
10 A33953 BACK-UP RING 1
11 U46683 SEAL 1
12 C12431 SNAP RING 1
13 C15412 SNAP RING 1
14 U10296 SEAL 1
15 AW25294 HYDRAULIC CYLINDER ROD 1
16 JD7799 LUBRICATION FITTING 1
17 W39153 SPACER 1 (FOR 2355N MFWD AND 2855N MFWD ORCHARD/VINEYARD TRACTORS.)
18 AW21653 SEAL KIT 1
.. AW25295 HYDRAULIC CYLINDER

This is a diagram of the cylinders with 2 rings. The outside ring is a snap ring with holes for removal and the inside is just a split round ring embedded into the cylinder wall about a 1/2" inside the cylinder and not visible until you remove outer lock ring and push gland in about a 1/2". Not sure which type you have but this may help if its this kind. These were used on a lot of older JD loaders.

 

[Jim Nelson]

Thanks but mine is a different design, the ram is not threaded on the end and it is just different.I'm familiar with thisDeere type cylinder and have rebuilt a few of them.

 

[Steave]

Thanks but mine is a different design, the ram is not threaded on the end and it is just different.I'm familiar with thisDeere type cylinder and have rebuilt a few of them.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct...yiQX6Uqd-g1ubJNHIyvHRsIg&ust=1453990699887915

Here's a thread on another forum that might help. This type is a bear just like you and Wdchyd said. The groove has to have all grime removed before the lock ring will retract.