drzmatt
Member
How do I add auto cycle to my wood splitter? Do I just need another valve or is it more complicated than that?
Wood splitter auto cycle
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beenthere
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What do you mean by 'auto cycle' ? Mine will return to 'home' by itself and stop, but when splitting, the handle has to be held continuously. Are you looking for a complete automatic cycle, no hands, or to just start the cycle, no hands?
Not sure I would trust everything to 'work' good and not get something or someone in trouble with something like a splitter that is automatic.
Would like to hear more about what you need, to answer your question. Don't have ESP on this end. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Not sure I would trust everything to 'work' good and not get something or someone in trouble with something like a splitter that is automatic.
Would like to hear more about what you need, to answer your question. Don't have ESP on this end. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Most of the commercial splitters have auto cycle as an option. By this they mean that all you have to do is put the piece of wood on the splitter and pull the lever foward. When you do this the cylinder comes foward splits the wood and returns to the home position automaticly. I am looking to add this option to my splitter.
beenthere
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Do you have specific brand names in mind? Or are the 'commercial' splitters you are referring to those that are out of reach of the operator, like the ones the bucked-off block falls into the splitter trough and the split is then initiated? I may be only thinking of the ones most discussed here, that the operator also has to hold the piece of wood being split. Don't think one would want to have these on 'auto' cycle. But as to what to do, seems a detent on the control valve in both directions.
Scozz
Silver Member
I have a buddy that has a splitter with fully auto cycle. Is a "better" machine, meaning he spent about 4K on it. It has a log lift, 45 ton and good stuff like that. I on the other hand have the 1200.00 34 ton model ... I've been meaning to get a look at my friends splitter to figure out what I would need to accomplish an auto cycle for mine. Sure would make life a lot easier. Maybe someone here can save me the trip!....Scozz
Scozz
Silver Member
I looked a the Timberwolf web site a few weeks ago. They have a manual in PDF that you can view. Looked they they used a multitude of valves to accomplish their cycling ... was too complicated IMO...Scozz
rswyan
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( How do I add auto cycle to my wood splitter? Do I just need another valve or is it more complicated than that? )</font>
Probably the cheapest way is to buy and use this valve:
Prince Double Detent Valve
It probably isn't entirely what you are looking for but it might get you most of the way there - is has double detents - in otherwords, a detent for the extension stroke and one for retraction. When the valve completes it's extension stroke (or exceeds the detent disengagement pressure) it kicks into neutral. I believe you then have to manually place the valve in the retraction position, and when the cylinder retraction completes it will again spring center to neutral.
It would be nice if it automagically retracted after extension but I don't think it does that - hopefully I'll be able to verify that in the next week or so once I finish all the welding on my splitter and have it operational.
Scozz is correct on the TW splitters - I looked at the PDF manual before I started building my splitter months ago but at the time wasn't into spending the extra coin to accomplish full auto cycle and went with the above.
You need to carefully consider using such a solution as above - they are not recommended, probably mostly due to liability concerns - the Northern Tool webpage carries a warning that they can be dangerous (like logsplitters aren't ?) - something could go wrong. FWIW.
Probably the cheapest way is to buy and use this valve:
Prince Double Detent Valve
It probably isn't entirely what you are looking for but it might get you most of the way there - is has double detents - in otherwords, a detent for the extension stroke and one for retraction. When the valve completes it's extension stroke (or exceeds the detent disengagement pressure) it kicks into neutral. I believe you then have to manually place the valve in the retraction position, and when the cylinder retraction completes it will again spring center to neutral.
It would be nice if it automagically retracted after extension but I don't think it does that - hopefully I'll be able to verify that in the next week or so once I finish all the welding on my splitter and have it operational.
Scozz is correct on the TW splitters - I looked at the PDF manual before I started building my splitter months ago but at the time wasn't into spending the extra coin to accomplish full auto cycle and went with the above.
You need to carefully consider using such a solution as above - they are not recommended, probably mostly due to liability concerns - the Northern Tool webpage carries a warning that they can be dangerous (like logsplitters aren't ?) - something could go wrong. FWIW.
rswyan
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Looked they they used a multitude of valves to accomplish their cycling ... was too complicated IMO )</font>
Actually they use a single double spool valve to do the auto-cycle - the other valves are for the hydraulic log life and the hydraulic wedge lift.
Using a double spool valve with single detents on both spools (or a pair of valves with detents) it should be fairly easy to create an auto-cycle. The TW manual gives some hints, biggest one being that both spools have to be put into detent at the start of the split cycle. My assumptions would be as follows:
1. The valve controlling the return stroke is second in the chain and is fed from the first valve which controls the extension stroke.
2. When the valve controlling the extension stroke is placed into detent, the flow to the valve controlling the retraction stroke is cut off making it inoperable, regardless of what postion the valve controlling the return stroke is in.
3. When the valve controlling the extension stroke completes and comes out of detent, hydraulic fluid is then fed to the valve controlling the return stroke. Since it is already in detent it retracts the cylinder and then comes out of detent at full retraction, spring-centering to neutral.
I'm not entirely sure how all the plumbing and the hydraulic line routing would be, would hafta think about it a bit. Hope this helps.
Actually they use a single double spool valve to do the auto-cycle - the other valves are for the hydraulic log life and the hydraulic wedge lift.
Using a double spool valve with single detents on both spools (or a pair of valves with detents) it should be fairly easy to create an auto-cycle. The TW manual gives some hints, biggest one being that both spools have to be put into detent at the start of the split cycle. My assumptions would be as follows:
1. The valve controlling the return stroke is second in the chain and is fed from the first valve which controls the extension stroke.
2. When the valve controlling the extension stroke is placed into detent, the flow to the valve controlling the retraction stroke is cut off making it inoperable, regardless of what postion the valve controlling the return stroke is in.
3. When the valve controlling the extension stroke completes and comes out of detent, hydraulic fluid is then fed to the valve controlling the return stroke. Since it is already in detent it retracts the cylinder and then comes out of detent at full retraction, spring-centering to neutral.
I'm not entirely sure how all the plumbing and the hydraulic line routing would be, would hafta think about it a bit. Hope this helps.
ronjhall
Super Star Member
Northern Tool has a valve made for log splitters. It has a auto return. Item# 2020: Prince Log Splitter Detent Valve.
I would not want to use a valve that was detented on both ends. Could be a safety concern on the split stroke.
I have built several log splitters. Mounted the valve over top of cylinder. Made a extension to valve handle that hung down below valve. Attached a spring to handle to pull handle to return position whenever handle was released from moving splitter cylinderforward . Connected a 1/4" rod to cylinder pusher with a clevis. Rod was extended back through handle extension. Put a collar on rod that would push handle to neutral position to stop return of cylinder. Collar was adjustable to control stroke of cylinder. My splitters had 24" stroke. Most of my wood was cut to 18". Set collar to return only 20". This saved cycle time.
Neighbors dad bought my last splitter. I'll see if he can send a picture of the return assembly.
I would not want to use a valve that was detented on both ends. Could be a safety concern on the split stroke.
I have built several log splitters. Mounted the valve over top of cylinder. Made a extension to valve handle that hung down below valve. Attached a spring to handle to pull handle to return position whenever handle was released from moving splitter cylinderforward . Connected a 1/4" rod to cylinder pusher with a clevis. Rod was extended back through handle extension. Put a collar on rod that would push handle to neutral position to stop return of cylinder. Collar was adjustable to control stroke of cylinder. My splitters had 24" stroke. Most of my wood was cut to 18". Set collar to return only 20". This saved cycle time.
Neighbors dad bought my last splitter. I'll see if he can send a picture of the return assembly.