I just bought a 2004 Kabota b7800 with 1100 hours. I ran iy today for the second time I turned it off to answer a phone call now I cannot get it to start. The dash light sometimes light up and sometimes are dim and make a buzzing sound. I have power at the battery and to the solenoid but can only get the starter to click sometimes. Please help...super frustrated because I am a first time tractor owner. Thanks in advance
Wont start
- Thread starter Jamartin
- Start date
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Roadworthy
Elite Member
This is not a new tractor so let's start with the basics. Charge the battery and have it load tested. Clean the battery terminals and the cable ends. Tighten cable connectors securely on the battery. Trace the ground wire to the point where it attaches to the frame. Clean and tighten securely. This may not solve your problem but will eliminate many potential "gremlins". Due to the stated symptoms I've not even addressed glow plugs.
Jerry/MT
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I deduce, your starter is not cranking the engine so the problem is most likely in the starter circuit. Do you have the usual safety switches and have you checked them? The click you hear from the starter solenoid is indicative of a low battery, and/or corroded battery terminal ends or a bad battery ground, and/or a defective starter.
CoyPatton
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A click when you turn the key from the solenoid on the starter is an indicator that your starting circuits are in working order. The issue seems to be that you are mot getting enough amperage and voltage to your starter.
Post #2 did a great job of coveting the usual suspects. If a connection will wiggle on the bolt or terminal, clean it up and tighten it up. Personally for the few minutes it will take, I would pull all 4 main battery connections and check, clean and tighten. Loose and corroded connections can rob voltage and will rib lots of amperage as the resistance to electrical flow has been greatly increased. Few homeowners have equipment to test 12 amps.
You stated you had voltage at the battery but did not say how much voltage. Get a digital multimeter, and check a fully charged battery that has set for 4 hrs or more, you are looking for 12.6 volts. Any thing less, you either have a battery drain (if still connected to the tractor) or a battery that will not hold a charge.
Now if battery holds a charge, it needs to be load tested. Most parts stores that sell batteries can perform this test.
A note on battery chargers: a 10 amp battery charger puts out 10 amps in 1 hour. (Most new chargers have computer chips in them that prevent charging if no amps are present in a battery so you will not be able to charge a dead battery.) While most folks do not have the equipment to test battery amps, you can assume that if the amps on the battery are low enough that the engine will not spin at all, it will take lots of hours to fully charge a battery.
At a 10 amp/hour rate, 10 hours produces a max of 100 amps, so it could easily take overnight or longer ti charge a battery. Another note about that computer chip in the charger, it typically will prevent an overcharging condition.
Post #2 did a great job of coveting the usual suspects. If a connection will wiggle on the bolt or terminal, clean it up and tighten it up. Personally for the few minutes it will take, I would pull all 4 main battery connections and check, clean and tighten. Loose and corroded connections can rob voltage and will rib lots of amperage as the resistance to electrical flow has been greatly increased. Few homeowners have equipment to test 12 amps.
You stated you had voltage at the battery but did not say how much voltage. Get a digital multimeter, and check a fully charged battery that has set for 4 hrs or more, you are looking for 12.6 volts. Any thing less, you either have a battery drain (if still connected to the tractor) or a battery that will not hold a charge.
Now if battery holds a charge, it needs to be load tested. Most parts stores that sell batteries can perform this test.
A note on battery chargers: a 10 amp battery charger puts out 10 amps in 1 hour. (Most new chargers have computer chips in them that prevent charging if no amps are present in a battery so you will not be able to charge a dead battery.) While most folks do not have the equipment to test battery amps, you can assume that if the amps on the battery are low enough that the engine will not spin at all, it will take lots of hours to fully charge a battery.
At a 10 amp/hour rate, 10 hours produces a max of 100 amps, so it could easily take overnight or longer ti charge a battery. Another note about that computer chip in the charger, it typically will prevent an overcharging condition.