Wix vs WixXP oil filter

Teikas Dad · Oct 10, 2015

I use full synthetic in my Kubota B3200 for engine oil. Rather than using Kubota filters I want to put an oil filter on the tractor made for synthetic oil. Wix lists their model 51334 as a correct cross referenced filter for my Kubota, it lists Kubota and a number of other tractors on their data sheet. They also show the 51334XP filter which has synthetic media rather than cellulose. Both filters fit the same gas engine cars that they have listed, doesn't matter if it's the regular or XP filter. I'm just trying to figure out if the XP filter would work on the tractor.

Anyone use a Wix XP filter on theirs? Any other thoughts?

From Wix website:
Product Specifications
Part Number: 51334
UPC Number: 765809513341
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Enhanced Cellulose
Height: 3.194 (81)*
Outer Diameter Top: 3.252 (83)*
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed:
Thread Size: 20X1.5 MM
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: 2/20=6/20
Burst Pressure-PSI: 280
Max Flow Rate: 9-11 GPM
Nominal Micron Rating: 21
Note: Holds 40% More Contaminants Than Other Leading Brands - Has Silicon Anti-Drain Back Valve To Prevent Dry Starts:
Operating Temp. (min): 0
Operating Temp. (max): 0
Capacity: 9
Filter Area: 0
( )* denotes metric
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.475 (63)* 2.173 (55)* 0.233 (6)*
Principle Application:
Principle Application: Acura (88-05), Chevrolet (85-88), Dodge (91-96), Ford (88-96), Honda (72-09), Hyundai (89-15), Isuzu (85-04), Kia (01-15), Mercury (87-91), Mitsubishi (89-98), Subaru (87-15) Atlas-Copco, Case, John Deere, Kobelco, Komatsu, Kubota, Onan, Toro & Yanmar Diesel, Other
All Applications
Part Number: 51334

They list the following for the 51334XP filter:
Product Specifications
Part Number: 51334XP
UPC Number: 765809216860
Style: Spin-On Lube Filter
Service: Lube
Type: Full Flow
Media: Synthetic
Height: 3.194 (81)*
Outer Diameter Top: 3.252 (83)*
Outer Diameter Bottom: Closed:
Thread Size: 20X1.5 MM
By-Pass Valve Setting-PSI: 8-11
Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
Beta Ratio: B2=20
Max Flow Rate: 9-11 GPM
Operating Temp. (min): 0
Operating Temp. (max): 0
Capacity: 0
Filter Area: 0
( )* denotes metric
Gasket Diameters
Number O.D. I.D. Thk.
Attached 2.475 (63)* 2.173 (55)* 0.233 (6)*
Principle Application:
Principle Application: Acura (88-05), Chevrolet (85-88), Dodge (91-96), Ford (88-96), Honda (72-09), Hyundai (89-15), Isuzu (85-04), Kia (01-15), Mercury (87-91), Mitsubishi (89-98), Subaru (87-15)
All Applications
Part Number: 51334XP

Hill Billy Bob · Oct 11, 2015

Both of the filters you listed have the same dimensions, flow rate, thread size, and bypass valve. The only difference is the filtering media....and the price. If one fits, so will the other......and so will a NAPA 1334, which is the made by, and exactly the same as the Wix.

I don't know what the XP stands for....probably "extended performance" or something like that......designed for extended oil drain intervals of 7500 miles or whatever. But if you are like most of us compact tractor owners, and change your tractor oil every 100 hrs, or once a year (which ever comes first), you don't need such a thing. My 1986 Kubota B8200, did fine on a standard filter (NAPA, Purolator, Wix, etc), I ran it 24 years with out a problem (other than dried out, cracked tires) and when I sold it with well over 2,000 hours clocked, it was running as good as ever, used no oil between changes, didn't smoke, not a leak or seep anywhere. Oh, and it spent most of it's life with me, powering a 5' Bush Hog.....so it knew what work was. The photo is from the craigslist add I placed when selling, look close and you can see the white, NAPA filter. I was overwhelmed with responses, it sold in one day.

The point....don't waste your money on some fancy, new fangled, over priced filter.......there will be no gain.

Teikas Dad · Oct 11, 2015

Thanks Bob, I appreciate the info. I know I can get the NAPA filter for it right down the road.

WilliamBos · Oct 11, 2015

If your tractor has an EGR I'd spend the extra $$ on the premium filter. A few more dollars wont hurt.

Texasmark · Nov 11, 2015

I asked myself the same question on the XP vs regular. Since all the specs are the same, as Hill Billy Bob mentioned, the difference has to be in the filter media and the drainback/mounting seal material (silicone vs Neoprene).

So I asked what gives the the media. Will paper dissolve over time and break apart? To answer that question I went to my used oil filter drum and pulled out a Fram PH 8A (sub for Motorcraft FL-1A common in Ford tractors) that I had pulled out of my 2000 after 2 years of diesel service.....forgot to do the annual one year.

I have pictures of the tear down process but nothing in that filter was degraded, paper was perfect and the glue holding the filter media to the end paper (no metal caps like Wix flaunts) was still thoroughly stuck and in no place had any failed.

So I said what the heck...use the regular. For what it's worth, my Cummins B 3.3L NA in my Branson lists the standard filter also, no special XP rating or any of that. There was a lot more to my exploration with half a dozen popular brands. Found some interesting things on metal end cap units...but that's another story.

Fram gets an unwarranted bashing if you ask me and I am not a lover of any particular brand of filter.

brown40 · Nov 12, 2015

Paper hates water, but is the standard for filtration media. I found the NAPA Gold filters were outstanding, and I'm fairly sure those are a WIX product. I have used Fram regular and silver box and had fine luck with them. Most people change the filter and oil concurrently now, whereas in the past the change was staggered. They used to advertise filtration capacities at installation, to let you know the filter efficiency to start, and that it would only get better afterwards, but I don't see that these days. Engines and oil seem to be staying cleaner longer. I'd save the extra $$$ if you aren't approaching hour limits between your changes.

ovrszd · Nov 12, 2015

Several years ago I spent a couple weeks surfing the net about filters. Found several non-biased studies. Commonly the AC Delco filters were at the top of the list for their filtration ability, flow ability and durability. Fram was down the list quite far. Wix was in the middle. I use Wix now and have no problems to report. But I'm OCD about lubrication changes so don't run them excessively long. My RTV listed the Wix or WixXP for the hydraulics. I went with the Wix.

I've never had a Fram fail. But I've saw two fail. They completely disintegrated, plugged, then sucked the paper filtration media thru the oil pump and distributed it in the engines. Required complete engine teardown to repair. I haven't bought a Fram in 10 years after witnessing those failures. Not bashing them. Just stating my experiences. I have not witnessed or heard of any other brand doing that.

Trillium Farm · Nov 12, 2015

Always heard that FRAM was at the lowest end and Wix and Hastings in the middle. I start from the premise that oil & filters are cheap compared to repairs and always get the best of both. Price difference is a few dollars and if you look at it on a yearly basis what's the difference? I also use synthetic as oil, much better protection at both ends.

Texasmark · Nov 13, 2015

ovrszd said:
Several years ago I spent a couple weeks surfing the net about filters. Found several non-biased studies. Commonly the AC Delco filters were at the top of the list for their filtration ability, flow ability and durability. Fram was down the list quite far. Wix was in the middle. I use Wix now and have no problems to report. But I'm OCD about lubrication changes so don't run them excessively long. My RTV listed the Wix or WixXP for the hydraulics. I went with the Wix.

I've never had a Fram fail. But I've saw two fail. They completely disintegrated, plugged, then sucked the paper filtration media thru the oil pump and distributed it in the engines. Required complete engine teardown to repair. I haven't bought a Fram in 10 years after witnessing those failures. Not bashing them. Just stating my experiences. I have not witnessed or heard of any other brand doing that.

If you saw it you saw it but that means that it sucked the full length steel cylindrical liner that the paper fits against on the inside diameter too. Must have been a real trick getting all that through the outlet port in the filter adapter.

Texasmark · Nov 13, 2015

brown40 said:
Paper hates water, but is the standard for filtration media. I found the NAPA Gold filters were outstanding, and I'm fairly sure those are a WIX product. I have used Fram regular and silver box and had fine luck with them. Most people change the filter and oil concurrently now, whereas in the past the change was staggered. They used to advertise filtration capacities at installation, to let you know the filter efficiency to start, and that it would only get better afterwards, but I don't see that these days. Engines and oil seem to be staying cleaner longer. I'd save the extra $$$ if you aren't approaching hour limits between your changes.

The differences today is that there is no lead in the gas, part of which winds up in the oil and lead shavings like you used to find on the crown of pistons and backsides of exhaust valves in particular. Other thing is that oils have better additives and base stocks now so they can tolerate higher temperatures without breaking down, both of which used to clog filters more frequently.

Personally I could never see putting 4 quarts of fresh oil in an engine and leaving a quart of dirty oil in a dirty filter so I always changed both.

Yes when filters accumulate filth, the filth clogs the pores which restricts flow and does a better job of filtering.....until the pressure gets up to around 12 psi across the media and the bypass valve opens and bypasses all the dirty oil......that is if it has a valve. Otherwise your engine starts loosing cooling lubrication as it can't get through the filter.