Will JB Weld fix pinhole leak in hydraulics?

[Richard]

I'm presuming the answer is no....but here's the situation.

I have a 15' hydraulic flexwing mower. In each section of the mower is a (roughly) 4x6 inch hydraulic "cooling tank" that runs the entire length of the mower, front to back. The fluid route is sort of from main tank to blade 1, then into cooling tank on that wing, hose jumps it over to another cooling tank on the center portion of mower, at other end of this tank hose takes it to center blade.

Comes out of center blade pump, back into cooling tank that is now on the OTHER side of the main mower section, then crosses over to the last tank on the flex wing, then to third/final pump for 3rd blad, then back to main holding tank.

"or something similar to that"

Yesterday, was cutting a field when I turned and noticed a THIN stream of oil shooting up in air about two feet. (think of a childs squirt gun putting out a continous stream.....this is NOT a gusher but it is a leak)

Looks like it's right smack on top of the steel cooling tank.

Is this something that might be cleaned up, apply some JB weld and keep an eye on it? Would it be better to weld/braze the location (which would require me to drive machine several miles to shop)

I don't know the pressure in the tank....but I PRESUME since it's a closed loop system that it's ALL under high pressure but I admit to having no clue on high/low pressure zones.

I can't fathom how a hydraulic system could have sections of high/low pressure once the oil is beyond the hydraulic pump and prior to it reaching the main tank.

So let's presume this to be a high pressure system.

 

[dusty3030]

It would have to be under pressure.
Is there anyway to just bypass the tank entirely with a section of hose until you can get it welded up?

 

[topbuilder]

Sounds like a welder job. JB weld would be a temporary fix at best. Maybe check that your reservoir is vented.

 

[Richard]

I think the venting is done in the main tank, not in these side tanks.

I've attached a PDF to try to show where the hole is (again, it's SMALL)

There is a tank on both sides of the hinges and they are on both sides of the mower, so I have four cooling tanks.

The outboard tank on the other side of the mower, leaked in the side of the hinge portion, making it terribly difficult to reach, whereas this one is easy/peasy to reach.

The OTHER one has been bypassed. I don't much care for passing by another cooling tank. I lose the cooling AND the volume of oil.

I was thinking to weld (braze?) something on the top to cover/seal it. This mower is old so I have ZERO concerns about the looks, as long as it's functional.

I have had some whispering thoughts in the back of my head that perhaps the time has come for it......but, since I cut the farm which is co-owned by my wife's generation now (12 people) and nobody is going to buy the mower BUT for me, I want to get the last possible mile out of this mower before I buy something out of my pocket to take care of my (and THEIR) land. I want to be clear that we also have ownership here AND are the ones that live here so I can understand someone who lives 3 states away not worrying about the appearance of the farm they never use.

 

[flyerdan]

What you could do for a quick field repair is to pop rivet a patch over it with JB weld or Pro Seal as a sealant. Use closed end rivets so they won't leak. Of course you'll likely get some drill tailings in the tank, so the fluid should go through a filter before hitting the pump again. If it was designed right, that should be the way it is anyway.

 

[BrokenTrack]

What you could do for a quick field repair is to pop rivet a patch over it with JB weld or Pro Seal as a sealant. Use closed end rivets so they won't leak. Of course you'll likely get some drill tailings in the tank, so the fluid should go through a filter before hitting the pump again. If it was designed right, that should be the way it is anyway.

If the hole is not too big, the cheapest way is to drill a hole, say a 3/8ish hole, then tap it (with a borrowed tap and handle) and using thread in a bolt. Us thread-locker so it does not vibrate out under use. That is all in-the-field kind of stuff because you could probably drill it out with a cordless drill.

I am just not sure what caused the hole. If it is rust, then the problem will just continue down the line, but if it is rock damage, then you would be fine.

 

[radios1]

have it brazed, having a jet of high pressure oil injected into your skin is not fun!.

 

[metalbender]

Probably not a great deal of pressure being in a tank return system. Holes don't randomly appear. Maybe a baffle plate in the tank let go. Material thickness dicates the repair method. Need more info.

 

[BlueKnife]

It would be very odd for a hole like that to form on the top of a tank if rust is the cause. Can you post a picture?

 

[rScotty]

I'd braze it. A nice simple job and it will be as good as new. This is all prep work at the welding shop. brazng a patch over the hole only takes a minute. If you want to make it easy (and quick) on the guy doing the work, clean the tank inside and out with gasoline several times and then with hot soapy water. Rinse & let dry.