Rake Will A Landscape Rake...
- Thread starter theboman
- Start date
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Turfman
Gold Member
I have a B2710 and use a seven foot model with no trouble. I like the added width, makes the job go faster and when finish leveling it gives a more uniform appearance.
It will clean up like you want, some stuff will roll out from underneath it as you move, but you need to go back for a second run occasionally to pick up the stragglers.
It will clean up like you want, some stuff will roll out from underneath it as you move, but you need to go back for a second run occasionally to pick up the stragglers.
That's what I use my landscape rake for, but it pulls alot of dirt along with it. Others said to remove some tines to help disperse the dirt, but I haven't tried it yet. Just be prepared to deal with a pile of dirt that has all the sticks and stuff packed in it. It's pretty easy to deal with the dirt using the front loader.
RodgerF
Silver Member
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2004
- Messages
- 168
- Location
- S.W. PA
- Tractor
- New Holland TC 30, Kubota L3901DT, RK24 with FEL and mower, Massey Ferguson 35 and 2 Farmal Cubs
I'm using a 6' rake behind my B6100 with no problems. It does a great job for what you have in mind. Your tractor should easily handle a 6' rake.
Rodger
Rodger
Glenn9643
Veteran Member
Bo,
I don't have a landscape rake but intend to get one this spring to clean out vegetation around the pond. I have cleaned up after bushhogging using my FEL bucket/toothbar with pretty good results. Sometimes have to set the bucket teeth downward and backdrag a little to get the pile started (to eliminate digging up dirt into the pile), and then get in the pushing mode with the teeth under the pile and the bucket level. The accumulating pile pushes most of the trash and brush along with very little dirt.
I don't have a landscape rake but intend to get one this spring to clean out vegetation around the pond. I have cleaned up after bushhogging using my FEL bucket/toothbar with pretty good results. Sometimes have to set the bucket teeth downward and backdrag a little to get the pile started (to eliminate digging up dirt into the pile), and then get in the pushing mode with the teeth under the pile and the bucket level. The accumulating pile pushes most of the trash and brush along with very little dirt.
OP
theboman
Veteran Member
I'm the only person know to man without a toothbar on my FEL.... I don't dig a lot. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
I'm trying to justify getting a landscape rake. They cost a lot more than I expected...about $150 - $200 more.... They cost more than a PHD!
I may just pick the stuff up by hand or try my one row cultivator as a stick collector.
I'm trying to justify getting a landscape rake. They cost a lot more than I expected...about $150 - $200 more.... They cost more than a PHD!
I may just pick the stuff up by hand or try my one row cultivator as a stick collector.
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( That's what I use my landscape rake for, but it pulls alot of dirt along with it. )</font>
aardvark, you can reduce the amount of dirt it grabs by adjusting the top link so that the tines come up off the ground a bit. Then, as you grab the larger stuff, it will drag along getting the smaller stuff with it. Most of time I can end up with very little dirt in my rake by doing this. If you shorten the top link, it should bring the tines up some. There is a chance too that you can change where the lift arm brackets attach to bring the attachments up higher to begin with. My CK20 has two sets of holes side by side on the left and right arms. The brackets, when put into the hole closest to the PTO, will lift the arms faster than the one to the front. I moved mine to that back hole and it keeps the rake/boxblade/etc. just to where I can keep them barely touching the ground, or change top link to make them dig in more. John
aardvark, you can reduce the amount of dirt it grabs by adjusting the top link so that the tines come up off the ground a bit. Then, as you grab the larger stuff, it will drag along getting the smaller stuff with it. Most of time I can end up with very little dirt in my rake by doing this. If you shorten the top link, it should bring the tines up some. There is a chance too that you can change where the lift arm brackets attach to bring the attachments up higher to begin with. My CK20 has two sets of holes side by side on the left and right arms. The brackets, when put into the hole closest to the PTO, will lift the arms faster than the one to the front. I moved mine to that back hole and it keeps the rake/boxblade/etc. just to where I can keep them barely touching the ground, or change top link to make them dig in more. John
OP
theboman
Veteran Member
Price a 5' KK XB rake today it as tad under $350 at TSC in Jackson OH.
