Why have a tail wheel on a small rotary cutter ??

wowwee · May 20, 2012

I just got a 48" rotary cutter and can't see much of a purpose for the tail wheel. I'm always fidgeting with the three point height anyway, my three point hitch isn't a position control type. So I was thinking of just getting rid of the tail wheel and bracket, makes it more manuverable under trees too. What do you think?

Thanks, Dale

Bird · May 20, 2012

The tail wheel supporting the back end of the cutter takes a lot of pressure off your 3-point hitch. Maybe that's not too important, but I always wanted the tail wheel to carry that load, so no way I'd get rid of it. I don't know just how level the terrain is that you'll be mowing, but if it varies at all, the tail wheel helps to keep the blade about the same height off the ground so you get a more uniform cut.

pacerron · May 20, 2012

wowwee said:
I just got a 48" rotary cutter and can't see much of a purpose for the tail wheel. I'm always fidgeting with the three point height anyway, my three point hitch isn't a position control type. So I was thinking of just getting rid of the tail wheel and bracket, makes it more manuverable under trees too. What do you think?

Thanks, Dale

Rotary cutters with tail wheels attach to the 3 point system in the front for raising while transporting but normally have a couple adjustable length chains from the front of the mower deck or frame that attach to brackets on the tractor that are pinned through the spare mounting hole on the tractor for the top link. The cutting height is then maintained by the chain length not the 3 point hitch. No fidgeting with the 3 point position control required except for transporting or creating slack in the chains to change the height for a different cutting requirement.
The rear wheel should be adjusted so the deck and blade are higher in the back than the front. This keeps the blade from throwing grass forward and by having the blade higher in the back much less tractor power is required than when the blade is parallel to the ground. The rear wheel also helps prevent scalping.

WM75Guy · May 20, 2012

The tail wheel not only helps prevent scalping but if you bottom out the cutter across rough ground you will shear bolts or slip the clutch. The tail wheel allows for backing up when the ground slopes up lets the cutter ride up the slope.

k0ua · May 20, 2012

Yep first time you back up and the terrain is a little higher than where the tractor is , you will wish for that tail wheel back as the cutter eats dirt, and shears the pin.

James K0UA

wowwee · May 20, 2012

Well, thanks for the info. I guess first of all I don't understand how the cutter can float at all. The only thing that would make the front of the cutter lift without using the three point is the front edges would skid on the ground and it would be pushed up, is that how it is supposed to work? No chains or support system. It's a King Kutter. When reading the instructions it said to adjust the cutter level for a more complete cut. When I adjust the top link to make the cutter level at say about 4 inches off of the ground, there is very little travel at the attatchment point on the cutter and if I would back into a hill forcing the rear of the cutter up, I think it might try "compressing" the top link and bend it. I need to look at some pictures or video of how other people have their cutters hooked up.

pacerron · May 20, 2012

k0ua said:
Yep first time you back up and the terrain is a little higher than where the tractor is , you will wish for that tail wheel back as the cutter eats dirt, and shears the pin.

James K0UA

Yep and yep!
In addition, with the tractor and cutter wheel on level ground be sure the wheel is turned as it would be going forward and your front cutting height is set, either by the chains being tight or the 3 pt. lower lift arms; then lengthen your top link a few turns so the bracket on the mower the top link is attached to has a few inches of free movement. This allows the caster to stay on the ground when going over ridges or backing up or down an incline to give you an even cut.
Last of all, if you have sway bars or chains on your lower links, when the mower is centered, adjust them so there is very little sway allowed. When you corner at much speed without controlling sway on a mower there are tremendous stresses on your PTO shaft to the mower. Bad things can happen
to interrupt your mowing.

Nik · May 20, 2012

I often unhook the top link from the mower after transporting it to the are to be cut. This lets the front of the mower float over uneven terrain and small ditches.

pacerron · May 20, 2012

wowwee said:
Well, thanks for the info. I guess first of all I don't understand how the cutter can float at all. The only thing that would make the front of the cutter lift without using the three point is the front edges would skid on the ground and it would be pushed up, is that how it is supposed to work? No chains or support system. It's a King Kutter. When reading the instructions it said to adjust the cutter level for a more complete cut. When I adjust the top link to make the cutter level at say about 4 inches off of the ground, there is very little travel at the attatchment point on the cutter and if I would back into a hill forcing the rear of the cutter up, I think it might try "compressing" the top link and bend it. I need to look at some pictures or video of how other people have their cutters hooked up.

I explained about the top link slop you need and why in the answer below your question. We must have been typing at the same time and you beat me done..l I'm too long winded:laughing:
If your mower didn't come with front chains, they may be an option.
If not you could make them or you will have to mess with your bottom link height until you get the cutting height you want with the back caster on the ground. You can mess with your lift handle and your draft control handle together to try to get your bottom links to stay put but your hydraulics will probably let them go down in a little while. Chains are so much better, so simple, and take the stress off your lower links.
A bushog type mower is not a finish mower. The blades are made not sharp
on purpose so they will stand up to brush, tree limbs and other crud found along tree lines. The fact that they will bruise cut or chop tall grass and weeds is just an extra.
Since your book says make the blade level, try that first, but that is not normal for even your push lawnmower. Single blades do a better job when they cut on half the rotation and have room to clear the debris with the other. On a tractor with a bushog it is also a matter of safety.
you don't want sticks and stones hitting you in the back of your head or even worse your eyes if you are looking back.