Who has used Flink Grey Metallic paint

[The kid]

I'm not happy with the cheap TSC MF Grey paint I used and going to redo the body with Flint Grey Metallic. Anyone here had any experience or tips to add on shooting this paint. I'm going to use a reducer at 4:1 ration and add some hardener to give it a bit more durability and sheen. Any thoughts?

 

[ray66v]

Not sure what it is I can tell you to help.

Yes, TSC paint is industrial enamel, and that is the lowest grade paint you can get.

If you going to use industrial enamel again, you can get a good result with it, but it depends on the weather conditions you spray it at, as far as how you should reduce it. A good rule of thumb is reduce it enough to get it to spray out well, but not a drop more. Do some test panels before you spray things that matter.

I usually reduce it with xylene, but other reducers can be used.

You can do a mist, or drop coat to even out the metalic, after you finish putting on the last coat, if necessary. This can include reducing the paint more, and misting it lightly from 2-3 times the distance further away. But, keep in mind doing this can also sometimes reduce the overall gloss when it dries.

Yes, the hardener will help it cure faster, and improve gloss. Even with the hardener, it takes weeks for industrial enamel to start to develop a good cure. Putting it in the sun for several days, can help drive the solvents out of it, which helps speed up the cure time.

Especially if your going to use the hardener, make sure you use a proper new charcoal filtered respirator. You can buy a disposable one for around $25, keep it sealed in the bag when your not wearing it. Once it smells like beer BEFORE you put it on, it has been used up, and your ready for a new one.

If you really want a good finish, I would use an automotive system on it, rather than industrial enamel. But, it will cost you considerably more money.

 

[The kid]

Not sure what it is I can tell you to help.

Yes, TSC paint is industrial enamel, and that is the lowest grade paint you can get.

If you going to use industrial enamel again, you can get a good result with it, but it depends on the weather conditions you spray it at, as far as how you should reduce it. A good rule of thumb is reduce it enough to get it to spray out well, but not a drop more. Do some test panels before you spray things that matter.

I usually reduce it with xylene, but other reducers can be used.

You can do a mist, or drop coat to even out the metalic, after you finish putting on the last coat, if necessary. This can include reducing the paint more, and misting it lightly from 2-3 times the distance further away. But, keep in mind doing this can also sometimes reduce the overall gloss when it dries.

Yes, the hardener will help it cure faster, and improve gloss. Even with the hardener, it takes weeks for industrial enamel to start to develop a good cure. Putting it in the sun for several days, can help drive the solvents out of it, which helps speed up the cure time.

Especially if your going to use the hardener, make sure you use a proper new charcoal filtered respirator. You can buy a disposable one for around $25, keep it sealed in the bag when your not wearing it. Once it smells like beer BEFORE you put it on, it has been used up, and your ready for a new one.

If you really want a good finish, I would use an automotive system on it, rather than industrial enamel. But, it will cost you considerably more money.

I'm putting considerable time in preparing the sheetmetal. I really don't want a car finish although it would be nice, buy it would quickly disappear going thru a thicket of saw briars. Just wanting a durable paint that looks correct. My left fender had some rusted areas that might could be repaired and may do that this winter. In the mean time I ordered a new Sparex left fender w/toolbox slot and tool box kit. My left fender I'm going to to tap out all the small dings and should look pretty good once finished. No major body work needed.

As for the respirator. Yes that is a must with this type of paint with hardener. Very dangerous stuff. Going to paint outdoors. I don't have any other homes close to be so drifting mist won't be a problem. I'm also using a HVLP gun to minimize overspray. i used hardener with a MFGrey I originally used and it was tact free in four hours. Mind you it was still soft but not tacky to touch.

 

[ray66v]

I'm putting considerable time in preparing the sheetmetal. I really don't want a car finish although it would be nice, buy it would quickly disappear going thru a thicket of saw briars. Just wanting a durable paint that looks correct. My left fender had some rusted areas that might could be repaired and may do that this winter. In the mean time I ordered a new Sparex left fender w/toolbox slot and tool box kit. My left fender I'm going to to tap out all the small dings and should look pretty good once finished. No major body work needed.

As for the respirator. Yes that is a must with this type of paint with hardener. Very dangerous stuff. Going to paint outdoors. I don't have any other homes close to be so drifting mist won't be a problem. I'm also using a HVLP gun to minimize overspray. i used hardener with a MFGrey I originally used and it was tact free in four hours. Mind you it was still soft but not tacky to touch.

There are plenty or toxic chemicals, regards of whether you use a paint with hardener, or not.

A HVLP spray gun making substantially less over spray than a traditional spray gun, is mostly a myth.

A gravity feed HVLP gun is best for spraying high solids automotive finishes, not industrial enamel. But, it can be used.

How much over spray you make is more a product of how heavy you apply the paint, how much pressure you use, and how close you hold the gun to what your painting.

The more practice you have, the more control you you have. The more control you have, the less paint winds up in the air.

 

[The kid]

There are plenty or toxic chemicals, regards of whether you use a paint with hardener, or not.

A HVLP spray gun making substantially less over spray than a traditional spray gun, is mostly a myth.

A gravity feed HVLP gun is best for spraying high solids automotive finishes, not industrial enamel. But, it can be used.

How much over spray you make is more a product of how heavy you apply the paint, how much pressure you use, and how close you hold the gun to what your painting.

The more practice you have, the more control you you have. The more control you have, the less paint winds up in the air.

We're talking about enamel paint. Yes, I'm aware of pressure settings, flow control and the dangers of all paints. As for the HVLP making minimal overspray, it really depends on how and where it's applied. If you have a vented paint booth, then yes, other guns are better. Since this tractor is not going to be a showpiece as many of my past projects I chose the methods I'm using. I have a 41 Studebaker Champion coupe in the basement which will be handled totally different. Thanks for your input.

Have you used enamel Flint Grey Metallic and care to share your experience with it? That was my original question.

 

[murphy1244]

We're talking about enamel paint. Yes, I'm aware of pressure settings, flow control and the dangers of all paints. As for the HVLP making minimal overspray, it really depends on how and where it's applied. If you have a vented paint booth, then yes, other guns are better. Since this tractor is not going to be a showpiece as many of my past projects I chose the methods I'm using. I have a 41 Studebaker Champion coupe in the basement which will be handled totally different. Thanks for your input.

Have you used enamel Flint Grey Metallic and care to share your experience with it? That was my original question.

Kid, your gonna need a gun with a agitator for keeping the metalics suspended or poor man's way by using a half dozen big ball bearings. I use Sherwin Willaims products.

 

[The kid]

Kid, your gonna need a gun with a agitator for keeping the metalics suspended or poor man's way by using a half dozen big ball bearings. I use Sherwin Willaims products.

Hello Murphy, I've already been thinking about that when I opened the can of FGM to take a peek at the gravity of it. After almost ten minutes of shaking it still looked swirly in the can. I knew I was going to have to shake it regularly while shooting to keep the metallic suspended. i don't have any ball bearings laying about be i can use a small handful of 1/4" new nuts dropped in should do the trick. Thanks. I'm going to start with a 4:1 paint/reducer ratio with hardener to see how that works. I have a regulator on my HVLP gun and will test a few patterns out before spraying the frame.

 

[vegaome]

Put some marbles in there kid.

 

[The kid]

Put some marbles in there kid.

Believe it or not the only marbles i have are in my head. When I need some nuts and bolts I always fo to TSCvand buy them by the hands full. I have a bunch of small 1/4" ones I'll drop in.

 

[ray66v]

Most metalics never look completely homogenous in the can, or in the cup.

If your using a quart cup or smaller you should be fine, as long as you put it in, and spray it within a reasonable amount of time.