Out on our property, we have an old hand dug well lined with stone walls about 3' around. I told my wife that i would build a pump stand and install one of those old-style hand pump/spigots so she can draw water out. My question is what type of pipe should i use down into the well? When going to the local farm stores they have two kinds - Straight galvanized or the black iron pipe. It will be about 10-15' deep and approx 3/4" pipe (can't remember exactly right now). Any recommendations? Would PVC be better? BTW - its not the cleanest well water either, so we're not planning on drinking it, but using it to wash up or clean tools; etc....
Which pipe to use on hand pump well?
- Thread starter Champy
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gordon21
Veteran Member
PVC would be far cheaper, lighter and easier to do repairs on. You will want to install a foot valve and strainer.
gordon21
Veteran Member
Foot valve=check valve. You will see check valves mounted at the top or bottom of the pipe on a well that shallow. It will save your prime. You can buy some models that contain the strainer and the valve in one unit. The strainer will keep out the crud that tears up seals and could possibly catch in the check valve to keep it from sealing properly. Deep wells have them installed at the bottom only so there is always 100'-800' of water in the pipe at all times. Suspend the pickup strainer about 2' from the bottom to avoid picking up the crud that settles to the bottom. You will not need to worry about torque bracing like you would if it were a submersible electric pump. They have braces to keep them from bouncing around in the well casing. You should be able to suspend the pickup pipe from a solid mounting surface at the top of the well.
gordon21
Veteran Member
In your case, you could buy the cheapest PVC version since it is only a few feet down and you are not drinking the water. A 3/4" PVC version should cost under $15. Brass would be $20-30
Foot Valves | PVC Foot Valves | Brass Foot Valve | Danfoss Flomatic Corporation
Foot Valves | PVC Foot Valves | Brass Foot Valve | Danfoss Flomatic Corporation
tommu56
Elite Member
Champy
If you are using a pitcher pump the pipe and pump will have to be pulled if and drained in freezing weather
Most of the pitcher pumps are 1 1/4 " pipe thread.
If not used too frequently leathers might dry out and you will have to prime it every time.
tom
If you are using a pitcher pump the pipe and pump will have to be pulled if and drained in freezing weather
Most of the pitcher pumps are 1 1/4 " pipe thread.
If not used too frequently leathers might dry out and you will have to prime it every time.
tom
WayneB
Elite Member
We have one at our camp and used 11/4" galvanized pipe. I did not use a foot valve and we just prime the pump each time we want to pull water. Just have to remember to fill the bucket each time. The base of the pump is threaded to accept the galvanized pipe not sure about using PVC pipe. I only needed one section of pipe so it was just as cheap and easy to go with the metal pipe.
One could add a foot valve to the end of the pipe and it would keep water in the pipe so priming the pump would be very quick and easy. Not sure if the water stays in the pump area if you have a foot valve?
Our dug well is about 8' deep so it works fine. It is mostly for looks with us. Have it down at our fish cleaning table.
One could add a foot valve to the end of the pipe and it would keep water in the pipe so priming the pump would be very quick and easy. Not sure if the water stays in the pump area if you have a foot valve?
Our dug well is about 8' deep so it works fine. It is mostly for looks with us. Have it down at our fish cleaning table.
Egon
Epic Contributor
Drill a small hole in the Tubing just below the frost level. This lets the water drain back into the well and the pump will not freeze in cold weather.
Standard practice on hand pumped wells back when there were lots of them!
Standard practice on hand pumped wells back when there were lots of them!
gordon21
Veteran Member
Egon: If you put a hole in the suction pipe between the water level and the pump, won't that ruin your ability to create suction and get the water up to the pump? You could pump all day and draw nothing but air through the hole.
to clarify my situation......yes it is a cast iron pitcher pump. I am building a small wooden pedestal to mount it on which sits on a steel plate covering the well hole. The pump connection is a 1-1/4" NPT, and I am guessing that normal galvanized pipe will work ok(?).
My plan was to drill a hole in the steel well cover plate to accept the 1-1/4" pipe, and to put a connector just above that with another small (24") section connecting up to the pitcher pump. This way (if needed) I can disconnect the pump/pedestal from the standing pipe without pulling the whole 10' length....effectively using the pipe connector as a stop since it should be larger than the drilled hole....if this makes sense.
I too was wondering about whether using a check/foot valve would lead to freezing up in winter. Is there a way to trip the valve and drain the held water - or is this already getting too complicated? Perhaps I should just leave a bucket there to prime the pump whenever we go to use it on weekends.
My plan was to drill a hole in the steel well cover plate to accept the 1-1/4" pipe, and to put a connector just above that with another small (24") section connecting up to the pitcher pump. This way (if needed) I can disconnect the pump/pedestal from the standing pipe without pulling the whole 10' length....effectively using the pipe connector as a stop since it should be larger than the drilled hole....if this makes sense.
I too was wondering about whether using a check/foot valve would lead to freezing up in winter. Is there a way to trip the valve and drain the held water - or is this already getting too complicated? Perhaps I should just leave a bucket there to prime the pump whenever we go to use it on weekends.