Where to store the Top-Link?

[bird1968]

Some of you guys where after me to make a guard for the power stearing/boots, well Today I got two birds done at the same time Top-link holder.

Is there something a Top-Link won't do?

Richard

 

[bird1968]

 

[johnk]

You have a very good insight and imagination. Great setup. Nicely done!

 

[dfkrug]

Good idea, bird. You might want to put your top link pins in the
other way, or your retainer clips are going to be knocked off.

 

[DiezNutz]

With all due respect, top links aren't cheap and you might as well paint a bullseye on it for every rock, stump, buried pipe, etc. that might be lying in ambush. Plus the end threads are going to be subjected to alot of contaminants.

 

[EddieWalker]

Pretty cool. It looks like you really are having allot of fun with your tractor and taking very good care of it!!!

I just keep a heavy rubber bungee cord on the back of my tractor and use it to keep the top link straped up tite with it when it's not in use, or when I'm changing implements. I tried the normal ones with the pretty colors, but they just rot out on me in a few months.

Eddie

 

[Volfandt]

Pretty cool Richard, gotta agree with switching the clips to the top, other than that it's GTG!

ahem, hows the grapple project coming

 

[Grrrr]

That is a clever idea, but what happens when you want to use the toplink?

You would want the guard when you are doing something like bush hogging but then it would be on the TPH.

 

[bird1968]

That is a clever idea, but what happens when you want to use the toplink?

You would want the guard when you are doing something like bush hogging but then it would be on the TPH.

After market Top-Link are like $25, This is a cheap insurance & a handy place to have one. I would recommend going with bolts & lock nuts instead of the clips.

Thanks guys, for the tips

The guards/bumperet is the most important pieces they should stop a rolling rock from hitting the stearing, Top-link is an extra part.

 

[dfkrug]

With all due respect, top links aren't cheap and you might as well paint a bullseye on it for every rock, stump, buried pipe, etc. that might be lying in ambush. Plus the end threads are going to be subjected to alot of contaminants.

Actually, they ARE cheap. Agrisupply has them for as little as $9.95 +
shipping, and they are considerably more hefty than any of the OEMs
I have seen. I have bought 5 or 6 different ones of 2 different lengths
from Agrisupply and I cut the ends off to use their forged swivel-eye
ends on other stuff. They are THAT cheap.

BIRD1968, did you make that grille guard with "B X" insignia? Was that
cut with a water jet? Very nice.

 

[czechsonofagun]

I just keep a heavy rubber bungee cord on the back of my tractor and use it to keep the top link straped up tite with it when it's not in use, or when I'm changing implements. I tried the normal ones with the pretty colors, but they just rot out on me in a few months.

Eddie

I do the same thing - loop bungee around the bottom of the ROPS - when not in use, I pull it over the top link to keep it out of harm.

 

[Volfandt]

BIRD1968, did you make that grille guard with "B X" insignia? Was that
cut with a water jet? Very nice.

Not Richard but to answer the question that is the OEM grill guard for the BX TLB's.

Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieWalker
I just keep a heavy rubber bungee cord on the back of my tractor and use it to keep the top link straped up tite with it when it's not in use, or when I'm changing implements. I tried the normal ones with the pretty colors, but they just rot out on me in a few months.

Eddie


I do the same thing - loop bungee around the bottom of the ROPS - when not in use, I pull it over the top link to keep it out of harm.

Can't strap the top link up when the BH is mounted, the entire 3ph & toplink must be removed inorder to mount the BH. This isn't too bad tho as it only takes perhaps 10 minutes and no tools (except for the locknut on the turnbickles). I just roll a dollie up under, drop it down and roll it away.

When I'm not using my Bro Tek thumb (which utilizes the toplink) I just lay the toplink down on the BH's floor board but Richards latest mod is also a good place to stow it.

 

[DiezNutz]

Actually, they ARE cheap. Agrisupply has them for as little as $9.95 +

Well ACTUALLY I was talking about the OE Kubota top link... some people might like to keep their original one intact. And even at $10 a pop, do you consider the aftermarket one "disposable"? If so, you have more "disposable" income than I.

 

[dfkrug]

Well ACTUALLY I was talking about the OE Kubota top link... some people might like to keep their original one intact. And even at $10 a pop, do you consider the aftermarket one "disposable"? If so, you have more "disposable" income than I.

"Disposable"? No, I never said that. The $10 AgriSupply toplink is superior
in every way to the Kubota OEM toplink ($111 for the last one I checked).
I have yet to find a supplier of 3/4" ID toplink weld-on swivel ends, and
I doubt they would be less than $5 each.

 

[Soundguy]

I've seen those forged ends availble at some stores as 'weld on'.. etc.

Soundguy

Actually, they ARE cheap. Agrisupply has them for as little as $9.95 +
shipping, and they are considerably more hefty than any of the OEMs
I have seen. I have bought 5 or 6 different ones of 2 different lengths
from Agrisupply and I cut the ends off to use their forged swivel-eye
ends on other stuff. They are THAT cheap.

BIRD1968, did you make that grille guard with "B X" insignia? Was that
cut with a water jet? Very nice.

 

[bird1968]

Well ACTUALLY I was talking about the OE Kubota top link... some people might like to keep their original one intact. And even at $10 a pop, do you consider the aftermarket one "disposable"? If so, you have more "disposable" income than I.

If you consider saving those $150 joint & the $$expensive power stearing cylinder , for a maybe $10 (It should survive anyway). I consider that money in the bank.

 

[RobJ]

I'm a bungee man myself. Actually I'd store the toplink on my most use 3pt implement, or keep it with the 3pt arms that must be removed for the BH. Then build me a solid bumper and keep it on the front.

Then I just have to remember where my implements are. :d

 

[Grrrr]

Then I just have to remember where my implements are. :d

I suffer with that too

 

[DiezNutz]

If you consider saving those $150 joint & the $$expensive power stearing cylinder , for a maybe $10 (It should survive anyway). I consider that money in the bank.

My first thought was why not extend the side plates forward a little further and weld a couple of bars of round stock or tubing across them to basically make a rigid push bar. If you still want to provide storage for the top link, modify the side plates to make a cradle for it so that it sits behind and is protected by the front bars.

Surely you can appreciate a design goal that doesn't involve "sacrificing" any parts of the tractor (regardless how cheap), in order to protect others.

 

[bird1968]

You make a very good point ,DiezNutz. Thanks for the feedback I may well make a standard clip on bar as an option.
This is a great web site to share ideas

Richard