wheels/rims / grease on the jinma's

   / wheels/rims / grease on the jinma's #1  

Soundguy

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wheels/rims / grease on the jinma\'s

Quick question... I was just reading johns's jinma website, and noticed the section that says if you get ag tires w/ 4wd don't expect to be able to change over, without a gearing change.... Why not.. if you keep the same rolling circumference... this is a common thing we talk about in the yanmar forum. It is common to change tire sizes / rims.. as ong as the ratio is preserved. What prevents this on the Jinma?

Second question. The grease that I have seen on every jinma so far looks honey brown.. like regular axle grease.... Is this what is shipped from the factory? Is the chineese grease ( or fluids ) spec'd to run over here? or is a fluid change in order after purchase.

Thanks

Soundguy
 
   / wheels/rims / grease on the jinma's #2  
Re: wheels/rims / grease on the jinma\'s

The 204 Ags and turf do maintain the same ratio, the 254 uses larger Ag wheels, but the turf option is the same from the 204. There could possibly be a new turf option for the 254, but I am unaware of it. I have been told by some dealers you can switch turfs and ags on a 254, but haven't seen the math, that supports it. I wish the Chinese would offer an r4 option, but haven't heard of any in the works.

I have seen the honey colored grease and it is what they use in the factory. I use a red grease, but would have to read the container for specifics. 30wt oil is shipped in the engine, transmission, front axle, and hyd. If the dealer didn't change the fluids, would recommend doing so at 25hrs. There are links on my site to recommended fluids.
 
   / wheels/rims / grease on the jinma's
  • Thread Starter
#3  
Re: wheels/rims / grease on the jinma\'s

Thanks for the info. ( I see I'm talking to the man himself /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif)

I'm enjoying reading over the modifications page. I love to see things like this that help others.

One in particular I saw was the hyd pump / quick disconnect problem.

Seems this is a bad design.. if the qd comes off, oil is deadheaded on the output of the pump, forcing out a shaft seal... seems like that line should have left the pump, hit a junction block with a built in relief valve, and then at least exit or or a qd, or even better, a qd, and extra power beyond ports, etc

Just my .02..

Soundguy
 
   / wheels/rims / grease on the jinma's #4  
Re: wheels/rims / grease on the jinma\'s

I agree with your analysis of the pump. Many dealers plumb the fel after the diverter valve, or there is one built into the US built fel, that they equip the tractor with. Don't know if they get their tractors without the quick disconnects in that case. The "standard" Jinma, if there is such an animal, has QD right after the pump.
 
   / wheels/rims / grease on the jinma's #5  
Re: wheels/rims / grease on the jinma\'s

It was explained to me that the flow rate after the PS diverter is significantly slower than at the pump QD. However the risk of blowing the pump is way to high for the convenience of an FEL that raises a little faster.

FWIW, my source orders all of his with the QD's after the PS diverter and no QD between the pump and the diverter.

Dang, I almost understand this....

MarkS (DIYGuy)
 
   / wheels/rims / grease on the jinma's
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Re: wheels/rims / grease on the jinma\'s

Yep.. and after looking again, Power steering gets it's hyd pressure after the loader... ( which is first in line )... I think that is just a plain bad design.. verging on unsafe..

should be pump, valving w/ relief, ( w or w/o power beyond )... power steering, loader, 3pt.. remotes.. etc..

In my opinion... which is just worth .02 /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Besides.. your hoping the shaft seal dies when / if the qd comes apart.... I would hate to see the qd let go of that hose stub under that pressure... I've seen bust hose and connectors blown off... considering your knee is very close to that line....

Soundguy
 

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