Wheel Spacers

[ruko]

Hello
I have a JD2320 tractor and would like to add wheel spacers to make it a bit less tippy. These tires and rims have got weigh at least 200 pounds. I'm wondering first of all, are wheel spacers a good idea? And second I'm wondering how hard is it going to be getting the wheels back on? I have trouble with automobile wheels getting them back on the lugs and they weigh much less than tractor wheels. Anyone have a suggestion as to how easily to get the wheels back on, other than inviting the neighbor over?
Thanks

 

[oldnslo]

Do your wheels mount with bolts or studs? If studs then use a jack that you raise and lower with precision and use that jack to align the studs. No lifting required. Also much easier to do if you can turn the hub on your tractor to help align the studs to the holes in the rim.

 

[sandman2234]

Use your loader with a rope thru the rim...OH WAIT...can't do that, lol!!
Do you have a pallet jack or an engine hoist or a chainfall? Got to be a way! Consider jacking the tractor up under a very strong beam (in case the jack gives way, it has to hold most of the weight of your tractor) and use a chain or strap to hold the tire while it is jacked up.
David from jax

 

[jaxs]

On smooth concrete,2 people and a floor jack is conventional. If one is available,a fel,chain and a helper is the easy way.

 

[Leejohn]

Do your wheels mount with bolts or studs? If studs then use a jack that you raise and lower with precision and use that jack to align the studs. No lifting required. Also much easier to do if you can turn the hub on your tractor to help align the studs to the holes in the rim.

I would like to add something to this if I may. Put some oil on the floor and you can slide it right on.

 

[ruko]

I do have a good floor jack that maybe can be jury rigged to work. I like the oil on the floor too. Thanks to respondents, I appreciate it.

 

[Deere Dude]

Wheel spacers are a great idea to help with stability. I would like to add a couple things though. Locktite the studs holding the spacers because once the wheel is on you can't get at them to even check them. I even locktite my lug bolts or nuts so they don't loosen and oblong the wheel holes. It happens quite easily. I locktited mine and haven't loosened up in 6 years. I used blue Locktite and they are still easy enough to get off is I choose to.

I assume you have fluid in the tires if you estimate they weigh a couple hundred pounds. If that is the case keep the wheel vertical and only move it slowly and keep it balanced. If it does start to get away on you just get out of the way.

To align the wheel to the hub just keep it on the floor and wiggle the wheel a little or maybe roll it ahead and back a few inches maneuvering and reposition a little bit at a time to get the bolts lined up. It may take a a few times to get it just right, but go slow. It is not going to fly right on.

I think putting oil on the floor will be a big nightmare.

 

[TMGT]

I have pretty much the same tractor/wheel size and changing them isn't hard, as stated use a jack to align the hub and wiggle the tire into place. I've always done it by myself.

 

[CincyFlyer]

I would like to add something to this if I may. Put some oil on the floor and you can slide it right on.

Or maybe some Dawn dishwashing liquid, which is slippery, but rather easy to clean up!

 

[IvanS]

No lubricants on the floor, that's asking for trouble. One slip and the few hundred pound tire is on you.

 

[Texasmark]

Use a pry bar of some sort, a ready built wrecking (crow) bar works fine and a piece of 2x4 wood. Using a floor jack, jack up the tire to where it is just "AT" the floor level or just above by a little. Undue the lug nuts/bolts and using the bar and the 2x4 (under the bar at the side of the tire) prise up on the bar taking the weight of the tire off the wheel studs and pull the top of the tire away from the tractor.

For spacers I made these out of quarter inch steel plate and a piece of 8" diameter steel pipe.

 

[flusher]

If your rears are loaded with fluid, I'd drain it out before removing the wheels from the tractor.

If you want to do heavy work on tractors safely you need the right equipment. Here's how I handled rear wheel removal/reinstallation when I restored an old 1951 Minneapolis Moline BF tractor. Even then you need to be very careful when rolling those rear wheels around the shop.



Good luck and be careful out there.

 

[Deere Dude]

No lubricants on the floor, that's asking for trouble. One slip and the few hundred pound tire is on you.

You want to move the tire around slowly and methodically. A slippery floor will be a problem. But to be fair, I never heard of it being done by anyone.

I also think emptying fluid would be more of a pain that it would be worth because you could loose the seal and you still wouldn't get all the fluid out. Just keep the tire vertically and make small deliberate movements.

 

[Texasmark]

If your rears are loaded with fluid, I'd drain it out before removing the wheels from the tractor.

My 3000 Ford has 13.9x24s on the rear and both are loaded with fluid mix. I move them easily with the method described. When I change rear wheel spacings sometimes I have to swap them around to keep the zipper pointed in the right direction.....just keep them vertical and roll them around. No biggie, just pay attention to what you are doing and don't let them tip over more than 10ish degrees. I work alone and have been doing it for 20+ years...forget when I bought the tractor.