Wheel kits on Landscape Rakes and Rear blades

[Clay45]

Background:
I suppose by now I hunger for a book somewhere that succinctly explains when & when not to use various attachments and implements on a compact utility tractor.

One of the most useful items I use is my 5 ft County Line Landscape rake I purchased at Tractor Supply. When we purchased our 6.87 ac place towards the end of 2013 it had quite a bit of debris scattered around the under brush and in gulleys. Once all of the old poorly maintained fences were out I began the slow process of cleaning and clearing. Couldn't count the number of old cans, bottles, wire or various kinds and that damned nylon webbing from hay bales tossed out and just let the horses tear in. It'll deteriorate in a few years right? - Not! Still weary from having to drop mower blades and clear all the crud out that I thought I'd already cleared out.

This little rake has cleared out goodness knows how much brush and grass enough to start mowing. I even used it to initially push up burn piles before getting a tractor with a front loader. Lately I've been combing thru dirt extracting old bricks, rocks, metal & glass as I work thru brush/burn pile remnants and spread the residual dirt in low spaces. Still a good bit to go but feel like I am winning the battle albeit slowly.

Have discovered that with a rear blade or landscape rake I can spread materiel but sometimes am frustrated by the blade following my rear wheels instead of the ground, especially when it spans a depression or hole. On the other hand, when it isn't I suppose its good since I can endeavor to shape the ground in relation to my rear wheels. And a wheel kit is unnecessary baggage when clearing underbrush. Have also heard them called a Rock Rake or a Root Rake. Well I've collected a good number of those with it but its not all that good at getting all of them. Perhaps wheels would have helped at times.

My question: When, How, and What are you doing when you find a wheel kit on your landscape rake or rear blade invaluable?

Thanks in advance!

Clay

 

[Baby Grand]

The wheels are useful if you're getting a lot of "washboarding". This happens when you're doing a long section, as in road work or contouring soil or gravel for a level or sloping surface. As you work over the same area, little dips cause the front wheels to drop lifting the rake or blade, then as the front wheels come out of the dip, the blade or rake digs in. This creates a new dip, and the effect magnifies & propagates the size & number of dips with each new pass.

With the wheels, you can float the rake or blade, breaking this effect, and getting a smooth & continuous contour. You can achieve a similar effect if you go slowly & keep adjusting your 3pt height to cancel the dip making. Sounds easy, but it's harder to do than it sounds.

-Jim

 

[Will_C]

For driveway grading, I find the wheels invaluable for the reasons listed above-they stop the rake from following every dip in the drive. Seeing how maintaining a 500' and a 250' driveway is the primary reason I have a rake, mine never come off.

Will

 

[rhett]

I found that using a length of chain as the Top Link, the rake will float and follow the grounds contour. It really does help allot preventing wash-boarding and getting the gravel smooth. Also no digging in while raking debris on rougher terrain, very noticeable improvement at a very low cost just to try and see for yourself.

 

[/pine]

IMO the best alternative to gauge wheels is a hydraulic side link...actually the word alternative is misleading...a hyd. side link will make a landscape rake or a rear blade 100% more effective and efficient...period.

Being able to make minor adjustments to the lateral attitude of a rake/blade (on the fly) is paramount (IMO) for being able to get professional looking results without a lot of excessive passes and hand rake etc. work...

The key to removing washboarding is angling the rake/blade so it is cutting across the ridges at a different angle than perpendicular to the line of travel that originally created the washboading...

FWIW...the gauge wheel kit for my Woods LCR was priced more than my side link cylinder, hoses and valve...!

 

[npalen]

The gauge wheels on my York rake are the cat's meow, in my opinion. Placing the 3PH position control all the way down and letting the gauge wheels do the work takes the tractors ups and downs and side tilts out of the leveling equation for the most part. (This was mentioned above also)
The gauge wheels do need to have adequate floatation to carry the weight of the blade and not sink in soft soil. I upgraded the gauge wheels recently on the York rake and am in the process of upgrading again to 13" OD x 6.5" width wheels. Also mentioned above is angling the rake or blade to eliminate washboarding which is similar to what is done with a heavy road grader.
I also added gauge wheels to my box blade which gives the same advantages. I would recommend top and tilt cylinders also. They add a tremendous amount of capability to most 3PH implements.

 

[jeff9366]

I found that using a length of chain as the Top Link, the rake will float and follow the grounds contour.

Not low cost, but very good with a Landscape Rake, excellent with Rollover Box Blade, HYDRAULINK.

With a rear blade or landscape rake I can spread materiel but sometimes am frustrated by the blade following my rear wheels instead of the ground, especially when it spans a depression or hole. Have also heard them called a Rock Rake or a Root Rake. Well I've collected a good number of rocks with it but its not all that good at getting all of them.

You need a Ratchet Rake on your FEL bucket. Available from the T-B-N store.

RATCHET RAKE ON YOUTUBE: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=RATCHET+RAKE


If you want to rake down 6" to 10" deep, you need a Field Cultivator.

 

[Clay45]

These are all great points. I may try that chain "top link" idea. Do you set the orientation of the blade any differently with a chain as opposed to a rigid link?

The cost of the wheel kit seems steep to me and if its the only way to use the rake effectively seems like they should come with it. Wonder if getting the wheels AND using a chain "top link" together would be of any benefit when grading?

Have considered the ratchet rake for clearing brush & briars but I discovered that I either need to rebuild the edge on my bucket or replace it before I can do that.

The only place I'm seeing "washboarding" is in the turns. Was able to diminish that by angling my rear blade but not eliminate it.

I'm still learning and really appreciate these insights and suggestions.

 

[jeff9366]

Have considered the ratchet rake for clearing brush & briars but I discovered that I either need to rebuild the edge on my bucket or replace it before I can do that.

The Ratchet Rake will fit securely on a wide range of buckets. Unless your bucket edge is radically bent up and down I think a Ratchet Rake will fit. "Chewed" front edge will not preclude a tight fit.

 

[Clay45]

The Ratchet Rake will fit securely on a wide range of buckets. Unless your bucket edge is radically bent up and down I think a Ratchet Rake will fit. "Chewed" front edge will not preclude a tight fit.

I know we're getting off track but I looked into this either last winter or earlier this year and was told I need a good straight edge on my bucket to use it. Pics attached for your reference.