wheel alignment on a tractor

[Gedfish]

Has anyone performed a wheel alignment on their tractor? I've recently taken all the steering system off my Ford 4110, including the hydraulic rams and the power steering box. Any tips or procedures much appreciated. Thanks, Ged

 

[ModMech]

While I have never done such on that model of tractor, I can provide some general guidelines.

1) Center the steering GEAR using only hand pressure on the steering wheel
- Turn the wheel fully left, mark the wheel 12 o'clock position (tape etc)
- Turn the wheel fully right while counting the number of turns needed from full left
- Divide that by two (ie: # turns = 4.5, 4.5/2 = 2.25)
- Turn the steering wheel back to the left 1/2 way (ie 2.25 turns) and fix it in place (rope, bungee cord etc)

2) Connect the tie-rod ends to the tube/bar
- align the tires to achieve about 1/8" of "toe-in" at the front of the tires relative to the rear.
- Measure from a common rib on each tire
- Measure at axle height, or as close as you can to it
- Adjust rod ends so the same # of threads is showing on each (side to side)

3) Center the front wheels to the tractor
- Measure from the inside of each tire to the frame at the rear of the axle
- Adjust BOTH tires left/right to achieve the same tire-to-frame distance on both sides (move tires on ground)
- if you are off a 1/4" or less that is close enough, less is better

4) Connect the steering linkage gear to LF steering arm
- Connect the fixed end (steering gear end I think)
- Screw the adjustable (threaded) end into the link tube
- Adjust the threaded end until the joint stud will fit into the arm hole w/o deflecting or placing any force on the arm.

Of course torque all fasteners to specifications and install the cotter pins. DO NOT apply "anti-sieze" to any of these parts, if you MUST apply something, use oil or grease.

 

[Don87]

While I have never done such on that model of tractor, I can provide some general guidelines.

1) Center the steering GEAR using only hand pressure on the steering wheel
- Turn the wheel fully left, mark the wheel 12 o'clock position (tape etc)
- Turn the wheel fully right while counting the number of turns needed from full left
- Divide that by two (ie: # turns = 4.5, 4.5/2 = 2.25)
- Turn the steering wheel back to the left 1/2 way (ie 2.25 turns) and fix it in place (rope, bungee cord etc)

2) Connect the tie-rod ends to the tube/bar
- align the tires to achieve about 1/8" of "toe-in" at the front of the tires relative to the rear.
- Measure from a common rib on each tire
- Measure at axle height, or as close as you can to it
- Adjust rod ends so the same # of threads is showing on each (side to side)
3) Center the front wheels to the tractor
- Measure from the inside of each tire to the frame at the rear of the axle
- Adjust BOTH tires left/right to achieve the same tire-to-frame distance on both sides (move tires on ground)
- if you are off a 1/4" or less that is close enough, less is better

4) Connect the steering linkage gear to LF steering arm
- Connect the fixed end (steering gear end I think)
- Screw the adjustable (threaded) end into the link tube
- Adjust the threaded end until the joint stud will fit into the arm hole w/o deflecting or placing any force on the arm.

Of course torque all fasteners to specifications and install the cotter pins. DO NOT apply "anti-sieze" to any of these parts, if you MUST apply something, use oil or grease.

Very good info. The only part I have a small issue with is the highlighted section.

I have seen instances where one rod was threaded more than the other. I always count the number of turns to screw the 'tie rod end on', and make them equal.

But with measuring from 'tire to frame' as you suggest is done correctly.........one may see this quickly.(or measure threads beforehand).
Hope this helps.

 

[ModMech]

Where there are enough threads overlapping to be completely safe, I cannot imagine any problem with more visible threads on one side versus the other. Ag equipment has a LOT more adjustability (threads) than automotive does because you can often change the track and small errors add up quickly when alignment is concerned.

I should also say that symmetry from side to side is a goal, but not necessarily a necessity.

I--===--OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO--===--I

is better than

I-===---OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO-===---I

 

[Ford tractor]

I usually aim for 1/4" of toe in. Using a tape measure while crawling under there it's hard to determine 1/8" -- especially for my old eyes or is it my shortening arms? Within reason, more toe in is better than less. Especially if you road the machine at speed.

 

[Gedfish]

Many thanks for the tips - I'll be putting it all back together soon. Best, Ged