What's the simplest way to add Hydraulic Top-Link?

[mainenate]

I have an L3240, and I'm putting a Summit Diverter on the loader arm to control a grapple. I'd like to add hydraulic top-link functionality for box blade use (Side-link is much less important to me, as I don't mind getting down to adjust tilt as needed, but it seems that adjusting top link on the go is much more important when using a box blade.)

So I'm wondering, what's the cheapest way to add a hydraulic top-link? A single spool valve next to the seat? Manual or electric diverter off the existing SCV? I'm a hydraulic newbie (cutting my teeth on the diverter valve project), but I'd love to add this top link function if I can do it for a few hundred bucks.

Thanks for sharing any wisdom!
Nate

 

[mainenate]

Something like this perhaps?
Monoblock Hydraulic Directional Control Valve, 1 Spool, 11 GPM
controlling this cylinder?
Hydraulic Top Link-Tractor, 3 point | Agri Supply 9599

I haven't checked what order the existing valves are plumbed on my tractor, but I gather that I can come off the PB outlet on the Loader or 3ph valve (whichever is last), to provide pressure to this single spool valve for the top link, and then tee into a tank-return line.

I could either run hoses directly to the top link, or put a 2-port remote block on the back, if I wanted the functionality of a remote back there (though I don't expect to need that, and could easily add later).

Does it sound like I'm understanding this? It appears that with hoses and fittings I could do this for $350?

 

[/pine]

I think $350 might be a bit conservative not sure if you are including everything ?? (cylinder, valve hoses/fittings etc.)...

I may have missed it but I did not see where the valve has a Power Beyond port???...

Also IMO it would be foolish to not install at least a 2 spool valve for future side link or X ?...The additional cost of the valve is minimal...the working ports can be plugged until there is a need...some will recommend adding float to one or more spools...after initial testing I've never used the float on my T-N-T...

Most of the roads and drives I work on constantly change contours so I am continually adjusting my hydraulic side link to keep the cutting or smoothing edge parallel to the surface...IMO if a road is smooth and flat enough to not require many tilt changes etc...it seems a land plane would be better suited than a box blade for general maintenance...

If you are going to install this yourself...you will likely want reduced orifice fitting on the top link...likewise on your grapple...

Good Luck...

[edit]
OK I see it does have PB function...:thumbsup:

 

[LouNY]

If your loader valve has a power beyond port which is piped to your 3 point control,
you can disconnect from that port and pipe to the input of a remote valve,
from the remote valves power beyond to the disconnected line for the 3 point,
then the tank return from your added valve can be tee'd into your existing return to tank
or directly to the tank.
Your new remote could have any number of valves, personally I would be looking a 3 valve unit with at least
one with float.
I very seldom use a box blade and my back blade has it's own tilt so I have no need for a hydraulic side link.

 

[skipperbrown]

I have two remotes I ordered with my B2650 so that part was done. I ordered a top link from Tractor Supply for about $225 along with a set of their 3/8" hoses. No shipping if delivered to their store. The hoses were too short so I returned them and took the cylinder and my remote connector to a local hydraulics shop. They fixed me up with 2, 1/4" hoses and connectors for about $85. I love it. I recommend you get banjo style fittings for the cylinder. They lay flat against the cylinder and are much more low profile than 90 degree or straight fittings. Once your remotes are installed and you have your cylinder, use an old hose to figure out the length of hose for each connection for a custom fit. The 1/4" hoses are easier to work around and slow the flow a little bit for more precise function. Good luck.

 

[ctgoldwing]

Simplest or Cheapest??? Two different ideas with different solutions.

I went with simplest - I ordered a 3 valve package and TNT from Brian at Fit Rite Hydraulics Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com
After doing my searching on this and other forums his TNT is consistently very highly rated. I wanted the versatility of separate valves - 2 have float. His package makes it really easy to install - even for a hydraulic dummy like me.
Now I'm just waiting for everything to come in I sure could use it right now. This week I've been regrading my driveway with a boxblade and for an old fart like me jumping on & off the tractor to make tilt and top link adjusts it just gets old, quickly.
Cheapest it surely isn't but I expect this will probably be my last tractor so. . .

 

[Tinhack]

I got my 3-valve package from Holland. Only took 10 days to get here. It replaces the valve block on top of the pump housing. I bought two cylinders with locks from Surplus Center. I'm thinking I can disconnect the side (tilt) hoses when not needed and have two circuits for drawing implements. Like an adjustable disk system with lift wheels.

This is the valve kit:



This is a sample of the cylinders:
2x8.25x1.18 Category 1 Hydraulic Double Acting Top Link Cylinder AMA 3 | Tractor Top Link Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

 

[/pine]

I got my 3-valve package from Holland. Only took 10 days to get here. It replaces the valve block on top of the pump housing. I bought two cylinders with locks from Surplus Center. I'm thinking I can disconnect the side (tilt) hoses when not needed and have two circuits for drawing implements. Like an adjustable disk system with lift wheels.

This is the valve kit:

How much did you pay for the 3 valve kit?...got a link ?