Jinman and the others pretty much already covered it.. but the 'jubilee' designation stopped after sn 77xxx.
Also The sn will be just aft of the starter, unless is is a early model, in which case the sn could be on the front left of the engine. If you happen to find a unit with no sn on the engine or tranny case behind the starter.. that means you have a chasie from the early sn 50K and it had an engine replacement after sn 50K where there was no engine sn.
Like the 8n, there are lots of parts available, many at TSC.
Besides checking for leaky axle seals ( oil from hub area on either side of the rim. Check for loose hubs. Stand by a rear tire and rock tractor sisde to side. Should be no movement other than 'tire' give.
Check steering. Drive it around.. Steering parts are not super high.. nor super hard to install.. but you don't want to buy it and immediatly have to tear the hood / gas tank off and rebuild the steering box to drop in a 7$ bearing...
See if the pto stays in gear fine.. if they have a beat up rotary cutter.. see if you can make a pass around their yard.. etc. Check clutch action and brakes.. as long as their is brake shoe left.. they are easy to adjust.
Look for pto seal leaks, and leaks at the lower 3pt lift pins. ( a leak at a lower lift pin requires pulling the axle and trumpet and chunk out... ).
Check for smooth governor response.. not surging.
2 types of hyd pump. oem was a van pump... small and square ( has tach drive ).. replacement was a piston pump.. longer, round / cylinderish ( has tach drive ).. the both work / fit, but have different piping/manifolds for oil delivery. Each are very $pendy to repair/replace.
Simple wear parts under the lift cover like piston, etc aren't much money.. just a bit of heavy lifting.
If you get it.. also get the I&T fo-19 manual, as well as a MPC manual.
Check fluids.. look for water emulsion in oils, and oil in radiator.
This tractor uses a seperate diffy sump, tranny sump, and hyd sump. ( 8n had (1) 5 gallon sump ).
Check to make sure it doesn't jump out of gear.. specifically 1st. Drive in 1st gear and lightly 'gun' throttle a few times.. this is a rare problem...
Check the pto shaft out. OEM it was 6 spline 1 1/8" New style is 6 spline 1 3/8"
Not end of the world if you have the old one. Either use a 1 1/8>1 3/8 ORC.. or use a pto stub extender that bushings it from 1 1/8 to 1 3/8. Stay away from a thin sheetmetal bushing adapter... only use the stub extender. ( or orc ).. the stub extender will slid on and make the oem pto stub look like a new style. My NAA has one as I wanted to keep it stock.. works great with a 5' mower.
I paid 2000$ for mine.. but it was a rust bucket, and need a tire, and an oil gauge, as well as some other small fixes.
Check for the existance of the left side running board/tool box. To find an oem one is rare. i see the repros and salvaged ones go for 150$. Most just add a left 8n running board and forget about it.
Check it over. Most people can't tell a jubilee from an NAA, or either of them apart from a Hundred series.
A quick check to tell a jubilee/naa from a hundred series is to look at the rear wheel hub... naa has a big axle nut.. hundred series has a smooth dished hub. Sheet metal is all but identical.
3k is good range for a useable machine.
If you have any questions onthe old fords let me know. I've got a 2n, 8n, NAA, and 660 setting out in the barn. All but the 2n are 'workers'. ( 2n is a 'looker' )
Not that it makes a difference.. but see if it still has the oem engine oil filter canister housing, or if it has been converted to a spin on. Canister is more 'correct'.. however spin on is easier to service...
If it's got a 12v alternator on it, but still using a 6v coil, and has a dropping resistor.. immediatly upgrade to a napa IC14SB ( 14.99$ ) coil, and get rid of the 6v coil and resistor.
al 437 spark plugs are good( some like champion h12 ), and use metal core spark plug wires.. not modern anti radio static ones. TSC sells a cut-to-fit set.
Let it get warm and check temp gauge and oil pressure.
good luck
Soundguy
