What size hiller disks to buy?

[Haywire]

I'm going to make a one row disk hiller/bedder in the coming weeks. I have no experience in these things. What size disks should I get? I see 12", 14", and 16" disks with 16" or 22" shanks. I'll be pulling it with my 2660 and will be making a T frame like BriarHillBrittanys made.

I was concerned about the lift height on my scut and the larger disks clearing both the ground and the tool bar. Does my concern have any merit?

thanks,
Ian

 

[Haywire]

44 views and no suggestions... LOL.. I bought the metal for the frame today. I suppose I'll make the frame, mount it to the tractor, and do the math to see what I have room for.

Ian

 

[Haywire]

Noticed that the GB48 48" bedder that EA sells has 12" disks and the GB50 48" bedder has 14" disks. Both of them have two 3pt pin locations, a low one for SCUTs and a high one for bigger tractors.

Ian

 

[204saskman]

I would probly go with the 14" disks just to give you the extra height. I might build one of these too as i have some spare time on my hand with a broken knee cap. Post pics of ur build.

 

[Chilly807]

I've been giving some thought to building one of these too. The part that has me wondering is exactly where to have the discs positioned from side to side.

I'm thinking the spacing between them definitely has to be adjustable too, at least at first until some trial runs have been done. I may just tack weld them at what I think is the right spacing, then weld 'em solid if they work well.

As for side to side, you need to be able to make one hill and have one set of wheels in the row between it and the previous hill.

Any concerns with it riding on top of the ground and not digging enough to make a hill? Might need to add weight.

I may end up just making a set of spoon/teardrop shaped paddles to plow the loose ground into a hill instead of using discs, although I think the rotating discs would last a lot longer.

As for disc size, think about how deep you want to be able to reach to get enough dirt to make your hills. I normally plow about 6-7 inches deep, below that is going to be hard ground. So, allowing an inch or two for some sort of hub assembly, anything bigger than 14 inches is going to be a waste anyway.

Were you thinking of using dished discs, or flat? Something tells me the dished ones might be better, I've no experience with this type of hiller though.

Sean

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

The discs on mine, are 16" w/16" shank. At first I wished I would have got the 22" shank. When it was used last year, the 16" shank proved to be plenty. Also have plenty of up and down adjustment with the clamps. My rows were laid out with the tractor, allowing me to cultivate. I have a 2 row Dearborn cultivator, but set it up for 1 row (I'm not cultivating numerous acres), and cultivated the rows before I hilled them. The discs threw the dirt up around the plants slicker than greasy BBs. No problems not digging enough to throw. I made them adjustable to move as the plants grew, requiring wider hills. I'd like to mount a furrow attachment to the hiller, for laying out rows before planting. Mark

 

[Haywire]

I've been giving some thought to building one of these too. The part that has me wondering is exactly where to have the discs positioned from side to side.

I'm thinking the spacing between them definitely has to be adjustable too, at least at first until some trial runs have been done. I may just tack weld them at what I think is the right spacing, then weld 'em solid if they work well.

As for side to side, you need to be able to make one hill and have one set of wheels in the row between it and the previous hill.

Any concerns with it riding on top of the ground and not digging enough to make a hill? Might need to add weight.

I may end up just making a set of spoon/teardrop shaped paddles to plow the loose ground into a hill instead of using discs, although I think the rotating discs would last a lot longer.

As for disc size, think about how deep you want to be able to reach to get enough dirt to make your hills. I normally plow about 6-7 inches deep, below that is going to be hard ground. So, allowing an inch or two for some sort of hub assembly, anything bigger than 14 inches is going to be a waste anyway.

Were you thinking of using dished discs, or flat? Something tells me the dished ones might be better, I've no experience with this type of hiller though.

Sean

If you look at the picture, the disks are held onto the tool bar with a sliding bolt on bracket. They are infinitely adjustable back and forth along the toolbar. On mine, instead of 4 individual bolts holding the brackets to the toolbar, I am going to use 2 square u-bolts so I can adjust them with just one tool.

The hiller disks they sell are all dished. Check it out. Do a search there and you'll find all the disk hiller assemblies. Including shipping they cost about $95 a pair for me.

Ian

 

[Haywire]

I would probly go with the 14" disks just to give you the extra height. I might build one of these too as i have some spare time on my hand with a broken knee cap. Post pics of ur build.

Just look at the pic I posted of Briar Hill Brittanys hiller. It's going to be a carbon copy down to the orange paint (I already have a can of Kubota Orange on hand) :laughing:

It's going to be a few weeks before I get it done. I've gone a little `round the bend on implements.. picking up a 12" one bottom on Saturday and a cultivator on Sunday. On Thursday of next week, I am going in halves with a buddy on a Dewalt 14" chop saw so we can make some straight cuts on the metal. I need (want) it for various projects to do with the tractor toy and he needs (wants) it for his rock crawler Toyota toy.

Ian

 

[Briar Hill Brittanys]

Just look at the pic I posted of Briar Hill Brittanys hiller. It's going to be a carbon copy down to the orange paint (I already have a can of Kubota Orange on hand) :laughing:

Uhhm.....Well actually, that's A/C orange .

Mark

 

[Haywire]

Uhhm.....Well actually, that's A/C orange .

Mark

I can't help it that you bought the wrong paint... :confused3: