What should I watch out for in buying a 425?

thenrie · May 18, 2012

I will be buying a 1995 425 tomorrow. It has just over 900 hours, seems to be in good repair, both mechanically and cosmetically, with only minor trim issues (cracks in the grill). It is the A model (non-AWS), and comes with a 54" deck that is also in good shape. No rust or damage that is apparent. The seat is cracked, showing its age. New front tires, rear turf tires. We have agreed on $2500. Initially I thought that was a real steal, but since then I have come to realize that it's probably a decent price, but not the deal-of-the-century.

I haven't yet seen the tractor, but I will check it out thoroughly before I hand over my cash tomorrow. Other than the plastic cam gear issue, of which I have become aware, what are some other things I should look for as I check this thing out. I am entirely unfamiliar with JDs, although I am somewhat mechanically inclined. I was able to take a quick look at a 455 today (liked it very much), so I am a little familiar with the size, shape, and general configuration of the 425, but that's it. I'm hoping to go equipped with a list of things to check before I buy.

zlock24 · May 18, 2012

be sure to look for leaking oil on the sides of the engine. also look for leaks on the transmisson, a little bit of hydro oil is ok, but make sure that its not excessive. for example, a dime sized spot on the floor under it isnt bad, but a large puddle is. also but sure to test the pto and power steering. the power steering should feel about like a car, it it feels very loose its about to have a major problems. I own a used 445, so if you have any questions about the 425, i will quickly reply to this forum for you. The 425, 445, and 455 are the best heavyduty garden tractors john deere ever made. they are also like billy goats on hills, very very stable.

rsewill · May 19, 2012

That machine has enough hours so that it is in the prime range for cam gear failure. Change it out first.

thenrie · May 19, 2012

I'm hearing the implements are hard to find and expensive. As I peruse Craigslist I'm finding that to be true. I haven't come across a rear PTO attachment. Are they still available from the dealer as parts? I'd eventually like to end up with a tiller, front blade, box blade, and a front loader.

Also, I see an advertiser on this and other tractor sites is advertising a Cat 1 hitch for $179 for the bent lift bars and $209 (I think it was) for straight bars. Will these fit a 425 and are they decent quality. I was quite surprised at the price, as most I have seen are in the $4-500 range.

zlock24 · May 19, 2012

to get a rear pto you will most likely have to order one through the parts counter at your local dealer. You could also get your 3pt hitch through the parts counter, but there are many aftermarket ones on the internet, you just have to make sure its made for your 425. for the front mount blades there are usually blades and the quick hitches on ebay, ect. but deales will also be able to get them

beenthere · May 19, 2012

The JD 425 is a great tractor. I have one, and think there is nothing better in its class.

But do yourself a favor. Buy one that already has the attachments that you want. Trying to add this and that will just be a pain and a frustration that you don't need. Often the attachments will come without additional cost. Just sayin........

thenrie · May 19, 2012

I bought the 425. Paid $2500. Tried to go lower, but he wouldn't budge. In the end I liked the tractor and came prepared to pay the price, which is why he won

.

Anyway...it appears to be in good mechanical condition for its age and hours (961 on the meter). It had some wet oil on the bottom of the engine, but I think I was able to trace it to a leaking O-ring on the dip stick tube and a leaking left valve cover. The engine starts and runs well with no missing. No smoke and no odd noises. The PTO operates correctly and everything seems to function properly with the deck, deck gearbox, and driveline. All the greasable parts showed grease. The oil and coolant were at proper levels, as was the transaxle oil. The deck has some surface rust where the powdercoating has lifted and chipped away, but no rusted-out places and no dents or bent places. The underside of the deck looked pretty good. Fairly clean with no rust I could see. The belt covers are missing. The hydro trans operates as it should, with no odd noises. The deck lift operates properly. After running the tractor for about 5 minutes I saw no oil or hydraulic fluid drips. The power steering felt tight and easy and made no odd noises. Front tires are new and the rears have a lot of life left in them.

Cosmetically, it has a few blemishes. The grill has several cracked verticals, but most are still in place. There are several fairly deep scratches on the front left side of the hood, but no cracks. The side panels are perfect. The black trim piece on the hood above the dash is loose. I already mentioned the rust on the deck. No dents or dings that I saw. The lights all work. Taillight lenses are cracked, but whole.

Overall, I'm pleased. I'll post some pictures tomorrow. It's too late tonight.

Gittyup · May 20, 2012

Sounds like you did good for the price. I wouldn't sell mine that cheap. You'd have spend $10K to replace it with something comparable new. If the CAM hasn't been changed, you are on borrowed time though. I change my oil every 30 hours or so, and have always been good to the engine for warm up and cool down. My CAM failed at 995 hours. It cost me about $600 to replace the CAM myself, which also included oil pump, governor gear, water pump, push rods, valve seals, and few other parts. Biggest pain is getting the engine out of the tractor. After that it's pretty straight forward. These Kaws are notorious for leaking from the valve cover because the gaskets are hard to hold in place when tightening. I would also suggest you adjust the valves, if the original owner never has. It's way over due.

Daguvanuh · May 24, 2012

I bot a 1999 JD 445 and got it for a steal. $500 with 999 hours and the cam gear had failed. Fix was no problem as I had 2 345's to cam out. Put a new seat on it also, waxed the crap out of it and it now looks new... But...

Today mowing and after 1/2 done I stopped to watch some stocks for a bit and fuel me and the JD.. getting back to it I saw some hyd oil dripping from differential "pump". Maybe 6 ounces... finished mowing and watched the drip even worse...
Seals, ruined transmission, any experience with this anyone..???
This mower did have wear on the trans dipstick when I got it. It was almost wore into where the last inch and a half of the steel stick would fall into the pump if it came on apart. I sawed it off near the top of the dipstick so no part of it could get in there and bought a new on to check the fill level but keep the stub one as a seal..
Thinking that wear of something rubbing that dipstick may be companion to this problem.... Any insight would be appreciated.. tl

thenrie · May 31, 2012

@ Daguvanuh: You should probably start your own thread if you want to get an answer on your problem. Nobody will see it tagged onto my thread.

Back to my 425:

I just picked up a 54" front blade with quick hitch and 4-way hydraulics (up/down & angle) for my 425. It came off a 455, so it should fit. Paid $400. I'm feeling pretty good about it. Just need to make a trip down to NC to pick it up. I plan to visit an old buddy down there next week or so, so it will be almost on the way.

Next up is a three-point hitch and a box blade.

Will I need the "block-off" valve I have been seeing advertised to block off the hydraulics to the deck lift while I'm using the blade?