What rear remotes to go with

[NateF350]

Hi guys, finally got my first hydraulic rear attachment. A 7ft hydraulic angle and tilt Rear blade. I have to put rear remotes on the tractor and after some research I am just not sure what type rear remotes to get. I cant say for sure what all attachments I will pick up as I go but I do know I want to run the hydraulic top and tilt links for a box blade and land plane. I will probably upgrade to a hydraulic angle blade some day down the road so I need to account for that also. 3 or 4 remotes? Spring center? Float detent? How many of each?

 

[mred2]

At least 3 remotes, depends on price difference. 1 detent, for future backhoe or log splitter. But detent can also be used for other things too. Put the detent far right or far left side. Never in the middle.
Look at all attachments and what you may want in the future.
top and tilt links - 2 remotes
angle and tilt rear blade - 2 remotes
log splitter 1 remote
Backhoe 1 remote
Grapple 1 remote or 3rd function on front
ditch bank flail mower - 2 remotes
and the list goes on and on.
And remember as on the angle and tilt rear blade, you may also want to use the top link adjustment. (will already have tilt on the blade)

 

[NateF350]

I was thinking 4 as it isn’t much more to get the extra one. I was thinking 4 position for the top and tilt (up,closed,down,float). Should I get the detents with self cancellation or is it not really needed? I already have a backhoe and a separate log splitter.

 

[LouNY]

If I was ordering valves for rear remotes one would be detented, one would have a float detent, the others would be normal spring centered.
If by self cancellation detents you are referring to the type that will return to center when the load is dead headed,
I have not had good luck with them they either kicked out to soon or didn't kick out.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I was thinking 4 as it isn’t much more to get the extra one. I was thinking 4 position for the top and tilt (up,closed,down,float). Should I get the detents with self cancellation or is it not really needed? I already have a backhoe and a separate log splitter.

I would like to know what tractor you are looking at that the factory has 4 rear remotes as an option. You typically have to get up in the 120hp range for that option.
I was under the impression that you were talking about your L3560, no???

 

[NateF350]

Thanks for all the input guys, having not used a lot of 3 point attachments it kinda hard to know what works best.

I do still have the 3560. I’m not doing factory rear remotes. I’m going to get a 4 spool valve from surplus center and do my own up. I have the backhoe so I’m going to use it’s hoses to hook into the valve

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks for all the input guys, having not used a lot of 3 point attachments it kinda hard to know what works best.

I do still have the 3560. I’m not doing factory rear remotes. I’m going to get a 4 spool valve from surplus center and do my own up. I have the backhoe so I’m going to use it’s hoses to hook into the valve

I highly recommend that you get at least 2 of the valves with the float feature. These work well with a typical top & tilt set.

The type of valves should be determined by the uses intended for each valve.

4 valves, 2 float detent for the T&T and 2 spring return to center for the rear blade is what I would typically recommend.

Good luck. :thumbsup:

 

[Henro]

One thing to keep in mind is that you can get control valves with built-in pilot-operated check valves. These are excellent as they keep the cylinders from drifting down. I have four remotes on my tractor, but generally only use three of them. I installed the set up myself like you are going to do. One has float, and the other three have built in check valves. Without pilot-operated check valves all your cylinders will change length over time which can be undesirable.

Float is really handy but the cylinder that is connected to the valve with float will leak down, while the others will hold their position solidly.

 

[Smokeydog]

One thing to keep in mind is that you can get control valves with built-in pilot-operated check valves. These are excellent as they keep the cylinders from drifting down. I have four remotes on my tractor, but generally only use three of them. I installed the set up myself like you are going to do. One has float, and the other three have built in check valves. Without pilot-operated check valves all your cylinders will change length over time which can be undesirable.

Float is really handy but the cylinder that is connected to the valve with float will leak down, while the others will hold their position solidly.

Is the valve stacks from surplus center that say check valves are pilot operated? Where did you get your remote valve?

 

[ovrszd]

If I was ordering valves for rear remotes one would be detented, one would have a float detent, the others would be normal spring centered.
If by self cancellation detents you are referring to the type that will return to center when the load is dead headed,
I have not had good luck with them they either kicked out to soon or didn't kick out.

I agree. My one self cancelling valve will work properly on some attachments, mostly not.