What is the proper way to install a 3 pt rear blade

[rasorbackq]

When should the plow be level ? off the ground or when being used?
Should the hydraulics be all the way down to scrap the snow? seems if they are then the blade pulls back as it tries to lift the blade and framework is not level.

 

[RoyJackson]

Everything Attachments has a video on how to use a blade...suggest you take a look.

The blade's angle of attack is dependent on the angle (relative to the tractor's longitudinal axis) and length of the top link.

That said, I did not set the blade on the ground (when I was using a rear blade for snow). I set the bottom of the blade about an inch off the ground to reduce digging in to the gravel of my driveway. If your blade can rotate 180 degrees, it's better to use the convex side (pushing or pulling) to remove snow. The convex side will not dig in.
Some folks install shoes or pipe on the cutting edge of the blade to reduce digging in...that works, if you're handy with tools.

 

[schmism]

i suppose it depends on your rear blade type.

If you have an inexpensive one that is flat plate with 2 edges broke at about 15 deg, the performance is going to differ between that and my truly curved mold board type.

my curved one i try to run with the cutting edge at nearly 90deg to the ground for scrapeing snow. when cutting dirt or driveway ill angle it back to kick the cutting edge out some, and when im doing my finish pass on a drive, ill angle it forward to better roll the gravel for better mixing action.

if yours looks like this

your going to have a hard time tilting the blade enough to get the cutting edge to 90deg to the pavement. might as well try turning it around and pushing with the backside instead.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I am not sure I understand your question but normally you adjust the blade at ground level. Often you don't care much if it is level when it is up. There are a couple things that might help you set it up though.

If you want the blade to stay parrallel to the ground when it is straight or angled either way then you have to set the horizontal shaft or boom (??) parrallel to the ground. To do this put the blade down and adjust the top link length until the shaft looks parrellel to the ground. Then raise the blade about an inch off the ground and rotate the blade around. If the blade stays parrallel to the ground at every angle you got it right. If not, readjust top link. If you can, rotate the blade to 0 degrees so it hangs under the shaft going front to back. Now adjust the top link so the blade is parrellel to the ground and it should be good at any angle.
That takes care of keeping the blade level at any angle at ground level. Now if you want the blade to stay level as it goes up above ground level ( or down below ground level ) when it is angled what you need to do is make your top link as parrallel as possible to your lift arms. You have several holes to pin your top link on the tractor and some blades also have a couple holes for the top link connection. Pick a set of holes that makes the top link as close to parrallel as possible to the lift arms when the blade is on the ground. What you are doing is keeping the shaft parrellel to the ground as it raises rather than rolling up or down.
This probably sound confusing so ask more questions and go out and try some adjustments to see what happens.

Hope this helps

gg

 

[94BULLITT]

Most of the time you are going to run your blade level but in the snow it will cut in too much. The shorter your toplink is with the cutting edge facing forward the less blade will cut, the longer you have it the more it will cut. Running a blade backwards (cutting edge facing opposite of direction of travel) works decent in the snow. With the blade in the reverse position going forward the shorter the toplink is the more it will cut. I usually run my blade about level and don't run the cutting edge forward. Depending on what kind of blade you have you may be able to buy some skid shoes for it or you could have some made or make them yourself. Once the ground is froze good with skid shoes the blade won't cut in. Also when you drop the blade don't lower the 3 point all the way down, lower it just enough were the blade is going to touch.

 

[Gordon Gould]

When should the plow be level ? off the ground or when being used?
Should the hydraulics be all the way down to scrap the snow? seems if they are then the blade pulls back as it tries to lift the blade and framework is not level.

I could have been confused by your use of the term level. I thought you ment keeping the cutting edge level as in perfectly horizontal. But maybe you were talking about keeping the angle of attack plumb as in perfectly vertical. Maybe you could clarify.

 

[Gordon Gould]

another thought. If you shorten the top link to much making the angle of attack very steep in an atemp to avoid having the blade cut you may cause the blade to ride up over the snow instead of plow it. The blade is a curved surface. It will try to ride up over the snow if the angle off attack is around 90*. The snow pushes the blade up not down. Two things hold the blade down. The first is it's weight. The second is the angle of attack where the blade trys to slide down under the snow because it is coming in and cutting at an angle. In this case the snow is pushing the blade down. The heavier the snow the more you will need to lengthen the top link to roll the blade back and have a more open angle of attack. So it is a compromise between not digging in and riding upwith a steep angle of attack vs digging in a little but scraping to the bottom with a less steep angle of attack.

 

[rasorbackq]

It was hard to write / understand what I wrote but you did very well with some answers. I'll clarify. I normally plow with blade facing rear of tractor hydraulics down all the way but some times it digs in or hangs up as too much snow to move forward. What I have noticed is the plow works great in 180deg when pulled if there is a couple inches snow. Then other places I use the blade facing back and push . Have read that 3 pt s are not designed to push just pull.
Will get some pics today for the set so more can correct my problems.

 

[EverythingAttachments]

Here's a video of Ted using a 6-way blade to scrape some snow a few years ago when we had some snow here in NC. Watching it makes me want some snow in a way!
This will also show you what happens when your blade is a little large for the tractor. It's a load on that little Kubota!
You can check out the new 6 way Value blades and XTreme duty 6-way blades that we make if you're interested. They have the quality and features of a high-end, big name blade at a fraction of the cost. They also ship free to a business or supporting freight terminal within 1,000 miles of Newton, NC.
Travis

 

[TerryR]

If you shorten the top link to much making the angle of attack very steep in an atemp to avoid having the blade cut you may cause the blade to ride up over the snow instead of plow it.

Several posters suggested shortening the top link. I don't understand how you could do that. Whenever I plow snow I turn the blade fairly sharply to one side so the snow is discharged to the side as I plow. If I were to shorten the top link the leading end of the blade would dig sharply into the road while the trailing end would be high in the air. I always have to keep the frame nearly level to keep the blade parallel with the road along its length.

Terry