What Do I Need to Know About Tillers?

GreenAcres · Mar 22, 2004

I'm about to buy a TC40 with shuttle transmission, FEL, bushhog, planter (? maybe -- but I might borrow one for a few months while I learn more about these), and a tiller.

I am a newbie -- what should I look for in a tiller?

Should I get a five or six foot tiller (got three to four acres to till, just a little bit on the hilly side)?

What concerns should I have? Problems I should know about?

Please share your experience and insights.

Thanks.

Bob_Skurka · Mar 23, 2004

Are you planning on tilling 3 to 4 acres every year? Is this for a market farm or a hobby farm? Or are you tilling it to get ready for a lawn?

You might want to check out a website that has lots of good information about different types of implements, tillers included, and descriptions on why/how to use them propery.

Market Farm implements

froggy · Mar 23, 2004

Thanks for the site, it has a lot of good information.

Stonewall · Mar 23, 2004

I don't know that I would jump in and "sod bust" 3-4 acres with a brand new tiller. I think I would look at a chissle plow, sarifier bar, mouldboard plow, disk or other none PTO type implement to get started. Tillers are best at mixing soil that has already been broken up. When sizing a ground engaging implement be conservative. The weight of your machine, transmission type and the tread type will play a great roll in what you can pull through hard earth. The optional "draft" function on your 3Pt will also make the job easier. A machine that will readily pull at 5' tiller may only pull a 3'-4' chissle plow or just a single mouldboard plow. When considering tillers look at the tilling depth and tine speed. the faster the tines the finer the soil grain that you leave behind you. there are also a few "bed Shapers" on the market that will aid in grooming your field. Good luck and let us know how things work out.

Egon · Mar 23, 2004

With manual transmission can your tractor go slow enough when rotatilling?

Otherwise;
should cover tractor tracks
is side shift easy to use
slip clutch
Clearance between tines and casing for rocks.
Chain or shaft drive. It is alledged shaft drive is better.
Is color match an item.
Parts availability

Chances are all of them are pretty good.

Egon

DUMBDOG · Mar 23, 2004

I have had no problem breaking up river bottom with a 60 inch tiller with a 24 HP at the pto tractor. This is heavy soil, the only time that you really have to slow down is when the soil is to wet. Go for the 72 inch tiller.

GreenAcres · Mar 23, 2004

OK, I guess this is a stupid question, but:

what is the difference between plowing, disking, or tilling land?

(Sorry, folks, but I was born and raised in the city.)

Oh, and Bob - in answer to your question, the answer is that the little farm is a bit of all three.

It is a hobby farm for my wife (she's had all she can take of city life), but she intends on selling organic veggies to folks in the suburban church we belonged to until we moved out into the country. There is a lot of demand among the rather affluent housewives in that church. They not only are interested in buying her fresh produce, but will pay a premium for home canned, locally produced organic food for "the off season" as well.

And if there is any produce left after filling her orders there, she'll sell them at the city's farmer's market.

She plans on cultivating one and a half to two acres of veggies per year, and growing green manure in the other one and a half to two acres. Then the next year, she'll cultivate the patch that grew the green manure the year before, and grow green manure on the patch that is "at rest." By resting and replenishing half her acreage each year, she figures the soil will be healthier and disease control easier without chemicals.

She also has some fruit trees that she is treating organically as well.

Bob_Skurka · Mar 23, 2004

Greenacres. . . as a cityboy moved country a decade ago, I know exactly why you are asking the questions!!! Plowing, disking and tilling generally are 3 different methods for turning over the soil to prepare it for planting. Plowing uses a plowshare to turn over a row of soil. Disking does much the same thing, although I don't think it goes quite as deep, it uses a series of angled disks that slice into the ground and turn it over. Tilling uses rotating tines that are powered by your tractor's rear PTO and they cut into and churn up the soil leaving a finished bed in your wake.

For a small market farm I think tilling is pretty common, as sizes of property go up, disking and plowing become much more common. I don't know which is better, but I do know that for the past 15+ years there has been a lot of transition to No-Till farming which I believe really means no-plow farming.

Given the size of the property you are talking about tilling, I would strongly suggest you buy the most heavy duty tiller you can get that is commercial grade. Most tillers are used for gardens and typically used for a few hours a year. Commercial grade tillers are designed for the type of use you are talking about and will stand up to the demands you will be putting on the tiller. Expect to pay a $2500 & UP for a commercial grade tiller. You can buy a $1500 consumer grade model, but I think you'll end up replacing it pretty fast.

JJT · Mar 23, 2004

5 years ago I bought a 72" gear drive King Kutter for $1000, on sale at the local Farm and Family. I have a similar sized tractor, (37hp Kubota L3710). I have HST and have never had a problem breaking sod. I easily have tilled a 100 acres with this machine and it's still going strong, (no problems to date). It has a slip clutch that does get a fair bit of exercised, (I have tons of flat stones).

Just my opinion - you don't need a $2500 commercial grade tiller for the acreage you are talking about.