What did you pay for a KX161-3 Super series

   / What did you pay for a KX161-3 Super series #1  

atilton

Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Messages
27
Tractor
L4310, M7040, KX161, RTV900, RTV1140
I am looking at a KX161-3 with the following

angle blade with float
thumb
rubber tracks

That brings up another question, we are going to use it to cleanup existing roads and make new logging roads on our land. Which is better steel or rubber tracks? We also have 50 acres of field that need some rocks pulled out.
 
   / What did you pay for a KX161-3 Super series #2  
They are around $54K rubber tracks no thumb. I have KX121, wish I had 161, but need to stay under 10,000 lbs. for cdl reasons. Get the thumb, get a grading bucket, and if you aren't going to use it for residential or commercial construction on occasional paving I would go with steel tracks although I have personally never seen one with steel tracks. One thing I can say is you won't be disappointed, great machines.
 
   / What did you pay for a KX161-3 Super series #3  
I swapped my Takeuchi 135 to steel tracks. My rubber ones lasted 1000 hours. My previous takeuchi 025 was likewise hard on rubber tracks, but I run it commercially.

Also, steel adds more weight down low where you need it. Not much, but some.

I rented a 121 for a year before I bought a Takeuchi. Not a bad machine. I like the angle blade and am waiting for one on the Tak.
 
   / What did you pay for a KX161-3 Super series
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I will have to drive the machine about a mile on logging roads and eventually up to 3 miles to get to were we are working does that make any difference as far as steel or rubber? wear and tear? I will have to drive on about 200 feet of pavement to get to my garage probably once a week, i have heard the steel is real hard on the pavement. Also which would be easier on the field steel or rubber?
 
   / What did you pay for a KX161-3 Super series #5  
Don't toast your drive motors going such long distances in "fast track" mode, you can feel them heat up after prolonged travel periods. If you are going to be in the woods more than anywhere else, go with steel. Get some plywood and keep it handy for crossing the tar if it is going to be in the same place all the time.
 
   / What did you pay for a KX161-3 Super series
  • Thread Starter
#6  
How are your rubber tracks holding up?? I am concerned about the steel because of my 200 foot paved drive way thats allot of plywood, and I was thinking that the rubber would be easier on the field. As far as driving distances I hope that it will not be a problem everywhere I will be going on my land is anywhere from 1/4 mile to 3 miles. I will probably have to just leave it out on the long distance jobs.
 
   / What did you pay for a KX161-3 Super series #7  
My tracks are fine.....and I am super careful about what I am operating on. You hear the stories about super expensive rubber tracks and repairs on bobcats and such, but mini X's dig more than move. As for the ply wood, you could probaby use 2x12"s and just keep relaying in sets of 3 to keep the wood moving time down to a minimum. Also, clean your tracks often meaning the rocks and built up mud so they don't rub. I leave my machine where it is if it is too far away to keep bringing it back home. The rubber tracks seem to smoosh/ smear the grass worse than steel tracks, probably cause the smooth rubber surface as opposed to ribber metal grousers.
 
   / What did you pay for a KX161-3 Super series
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Ok I think I will lean towards the steel, you have some really good points, are there any maintenance differences that you know of between steel and rubber? What are you using your machine for personal or commercial?

Also wondering what people are paying for this machine??
 
   / What did you pay for a KX161-3 Super series #9  
I use my machine primarily commercial, but love having it around the farm. When I bought it I was concerned about the cost and if I could keep it busy enough to justify owning as I already had a backhoe. Since buying it, I cannot imagine not having it. Tracked machines are sometimes the only option where wheeled machines won't go. It has gotten me more jobs due to versatility, and made some ore effecient. I use a L48 TLB and KX121-3 combo on most big jobs and it is great. Maintenence wise, grease, grease, grease. Check the machine often, and be careful operating. Simple things like using your drive motors to the rear, watch your tracks and obstructions, watch "stuff" which may be catching your loose hyd. thumb lines, ......and oh yes, keep the cab clean. Dirt comes in the cab via your boots and turns into dust which cirulates around the cab. I keep a small hand broom handy to deal with that. You asked about steel vs. rubber tracks for maintenece, that I don't know but would assume they are harder on the rollers and drive sprockets. New KX161-3 around $60K new and $40+ used with several hundred hours. Good luck.
 
   / What did you pay for a KX161-3 Super series #10  
I vote steel and you won't have issues with your driveway if you're careful. I worked for a guy doing some very temp. work and we would cross streets in our subdivision we were working in with a 160 excavator. As long as you go a decent pace and get on and off the concrete with the proper wood you'll be fine. In some cases rubber can be more damaging to soft ground then steel tracks, but it just depends on the ground. Do you not have a trailer for transporting the excavator such a long distance? I'd leave it out on long distance jobs if you can like you mentioned. Ideally you should have a toothed digging bucket and a smooth faced clean up bucket for the work you're doing. Those are perfect combos for any size excavator IMHO. There's not that much maintenance in steel tracks, just check them here and there, make sure you tighten them when they have too much slack in them. Rubber gets eaten up and split etc. so you have to keep an extra eye on the wear and tear for rubber. They also are a pain to put back on if you pop a rubber track. Greasing is SOOOOOOOOO important, for tracks and everything else on the machine.

Check Construction Equipment at Machinery Trader: Caterpillar, Komatsu, Case, John Deere, Volvo and Equipment Trader Magazine Online - Buy or Sell New and Used Heavy Equipment for prices based on hours etc. That'll give you a good comparison.

You can't go wrong with Kubota excavators, I use 121's more than 161's but both are GREAT machines and I used to work for a rental company so I saw both machines in that atmosphere and they held up VERY VERY well against abusive unintelligent customers.

Curtisfarmer's right, if you get a cabbed machine, which I would, keep a little broom with ya, it will help keep you more comfortable with a less dusty environment and keep the inside cleaner.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2014 FORD F-350 (A45333)
2014 FORD F-350...
2023 Witzco DD-40 Step Deck Trailer (A42203)
2023 Witzco DD-40...
2021 Ford F-150 4x4 Crew Cab Pickup Truck (A42744)
2021 Ford F-150...
2004 Honda Pilot SUV (A42744)
2004 Honda Pilot...
MK FLOOR SAW (A45333)
MK FLOOR SAW (A45333)
John Deere 6068 Engine (A44502)
John Deere 6068...
 
Top