What attachments do yo have for your LS ?

[rwork]

I don't even have my R3039H delivered yet, but I'm already shopping for attachments. I did order a 5' Howse HD box blade with the tractor, but I'm wondering if I should get a 66" instead? I've got to order a Ratchet Rake tomorrow, so that I'll have it when the tractor is delivered. I want to be ready to go to work (or just have fun playing)!
I'm wondering how useful a set of pallet forks would be, and I know I'm going to buy a root grapple.

Has any one used the rear remotes to power a loader attachment? If so, how did you plumb it? I don't know what would be the best way to get the hydraulics from the rear to the front.

 

[bruceatlam]

I use a flail mower and an offset disc on a regular basis. I have a box blade but don't have a lot of use for it at present.

The rear remotes may be tough to use for loader attachments --- they don't have detents and they are spring loaded to return to neutral. They're meant to run a hydraulic toplink or side lift cylinder --- or any cyliner for that matter that needs to be positioned. I don't know about a grapple -------------------???

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Get the 66" box blade, you will be happier with it than the 60". If you want to use your rear remotes for your root grapple, just get some 3/8" hoses made up that will plug into your rear remotes (1/2" male AG QD ends) route the hoses up under the tractor over to the loader mounting tower and then up along the loader to the front loader cross member. The best way to be sure that you get the length right is to use either 3/8" air hose (preferred) or water hose and actually route the hose how you want it run. Then measure and order it to that length. When you install the hydraulic hoses, get them routed and then zip tie in place. All pretty simple and painless.

If you do not have the tractor yet, you might want to add the 3rd set of remotes so that you will have enough in the future. You will need 3 to run your top and tilt cylinders along with your grapple.

 

[rwork]

The rear remotes may be tough to use for loader attachments --- they don't have detents and they are spring loaded to return to neutral. They're meant to run a hydraulic toplink or side lift cylinder --- or any cyliner for that matter that needs to be positioned. I don't know about a grapple -------------------???[/QUOTE]

I did see a video by RCO Tractor, using the remote valves to power a grapple. I'm just curious as to how they got the power to the front of the loader. by hose?
The video shows them using the rear valve lever, but it would be much better to have the electric solenoid switch in the loader control stick, so you could control all functions with one hand.

 

[rwork]

Thanks MntView, your reply came as I was typing my next thread!

The garden hose measurement method makes good sense, I'll take a look at that option.....as soon as I get my machine!

Thanks

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks MntView, your reply came as I was typing my next thread!

The garden hose measurement method makes good sense, I'll take a look at that option.....as soon as I get my machine!

Thanks

I agree that the diverter valve is the way to go, but a few hundred more for the cost, like 3-4 more. I'm getting ready to do the diverter set up on my 3215.

 

[crawleybp]

I ordered my R3039H last week too....and it still isn't here. I'm beside myself. The only thing that helps is reading and responding to tractor forums.. Anyway, i've been thinking about a box blade too. I have to do some grading and its on a hill. My old tractor didn't have the juice to do it and it was a 23hp with a 4 foot box blade. The dealer says this thing should be able to do it with a 6 ft box blade even up hill....I'm not sure. I want to get some work done so i think i'm going with a 66". That way i can fill that bad boy up and drag it all over the hill side. That's my idea anyway...anyone else have any thoughts?

I seen that video that RCO tractor did with the power grapple too. They did use the rear remotes..... i was wondering how they did that too. Maybe you could e-mail or call them and ask.

 

[rwork]

Crawley,
I'll check on that. I think that MntView has the right idea, in adding a diverter valve. I need to get with him on the TnT for my box blade as well.

 

[rwork]

I'm still not sure about the size box blade I need for this tractor. My dealer must of had about two dozen box blades, and they're all even sizes. No half footers. Would a six foot BB big too big for my R3039H ?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Just my :2cents: here, so take it for what it's worth. If a 66" box blade is not available to you, (they are available) then I would rather have a heavy duty 60" BB than a medium duty 72" BB. A heavy duty 72" BB will be to much for the tractor IMO. A lot of guys would and do disagree with me about this. My feeling is that you should be able to use an implement to it's maximum capacity at least 95% or the time. If you can not, then IMO the implement is to much for the tractor. If a person has to always be aware of how much material they are moving because they can't move a full load. They have to constantly lessen the load in able to get any work done, then that is counter productive in my book. This is not to say to get everything small, it is a fine line and it is best to match the implement to what the tractor's capabilities are. To small, you waist time and take the chance of over powering the implement which can end up with a damaged implement. To big and you waist time and money with an implement that is simply to much for the machine.

Good luck with your decision.