Wet saw or dry saw?

[RayCo]

I hope I'm not pushing the bounds too much of asking a not-exactly-tractor question here. But, I've been using my tractor to help me put in a walkway, and I'm at the point where I'll be laying pavers soon. About 46 feet of the walkway is curved, so there will be a lot of cutting involved.

My initial thought was to rent a wet saw, but this part of the project could easily take weeks to do with limited time available. So, now I'm thinking about buying a saw. Dry saws seem to be much cheaper than wet saws. From some of the things I've read, it seems that dry saws actually make better cuts and don't distort the color of the pavers, but they're more prone to causing health problems. Considering that I'm not going to make a career of cutting pavers, I THINK the health thing would be okay, as long as I'm safe about things.

Any thoughts or anything about a saw purchase? Any recommended brands or models? I'll be cutting pavers and wall blocks both. They're standard EP Henry pavers that are 2 3-/8" thick (if I remember right), and the wall blocks are Coventry Garden Wall blocks, which are 4" thick.

Thank you!

 

[EddieWalker]

I've used both and if I had the money and the need, I'd buy a wet saw. It cuts easier, faster and cleaner. Never heard of any distortion of color problems and seriously doubt they exist.

Since I don't do allot of paver projects, I rely on dry saws for cutting. I have two saws that I use. My Milwakee metal chop saw that cost me around $180 uses a 14 inch blade and does most of the cutting. Just go slow and easy and the blade will melt right through the pavers.

I use a diamand blade with the notches cut into it. A decent blade will cost around $80 and last you for years. It works on pavers, bricks and stone.

For other, specialty cuts, I have a 7 inch diamond blade in my electric 7 1/4 hand saw. It's the same style blade, and runs around $45. I use this for the same things, but also use it allot for Hardi Siding on homes I'm working on.

I've done small jobs with just the hand saw, but it's more effort to hold the pavers while cutting them. On the really thick pavers, I have to cut them on both sides all the way through, so the chop saw works better if you have one.

Don't use a wood chop saw for cutting pavers. The dust and load will ruin it. I also think there is a speed issue with wood saws compared to metal chop saws. You don't want the blade turning too fast, but I'm not an expert to know this for sure.

Eddie

 

[Arkaybee]

I use this for the same things, but also use it allot for Hardi Siding on homes I'm working on.

Eddie:

I am soon to replace some severly weathered T-111 panels on a building and I want to use Hardi panels (4x8').

What fastener do you use with Hardi panels (galvanized or plain, nails or screws)?
Do you predrill for the fasteners?

What type of paint primer do you use for the Hardi panels? Is an alkaline-tolerant primer necessary or advised?

Is regular latex a good choice for a topcoat?

Thanks for your advice.

Arkaybee

 

[AlanB]

Rayco,

We do a fair amount of this type work.

* Hanna Bechard * A Woman's Touch * Clarksville * TN * Landscaping * Lawncare * Patios * Ponds *

Certainly not as much as many, but enough that we have the tools.

As Eddie said, we use the 14" chop saw a lot.

I also have a 10" wet saw that is more for tile work, but we cut bricks and stone with it as well, sometimes we flip and do two cuts for the thickness.

In the past I always rented the chainsaw looking wheel cutter when needed but bought one this weekend from Harbor Freight.

My 2 cents, and I often run into the dilema of renting vs. buying, I like to work at my schedule and convienience. I tend to buy the cheap HF tools, take care of them, realize they are not the quality of the better tools, and I buy the 2 year warranty that they will replace them on. So far I have not been disappointed with them.

Their 10" wet saw is usually about $200 and the stand is about $60. I cannot run back and forth and rent many times at that rate.

I saw a 14" wet dry in their catalouge I would maybe consider more for the project you are doing, or consider the chain saw type 14" and rig a stand for it?

I operate on the wind at my back, and good ventilation theory. Even wet you will sometimes breathe some. Good fitting quality dust masks can go a long way to minimizing what you are breathing.

With the concrete 14" saw, sometimes what we do is have a person stand there with a leaf blower and blow the dust away as we go, sometimes the water feed on those can just make a huge mess.

Good luck, don't skimp on tamping, dont skimp on the gravel and you will be happy in the end.

 

[ktm250rider]

When I did our previous walkway, I laid all the full bricks first and got all the edgeing in place. Then, I rented a wet saw and did all the cutting.
Each project I did, I kept saying I should just buy a saw. I finally got enough smarts and bought an MK100. Now I can work at my own pace.
Just get a quote for someone to install the pavers for you. Then the cost of purchasing the saw will be a wash. I was surprised at the quotes I got when I did our walkway.

 

[RayCo]

Thanks to all for the feedback.

When I did our previous walkway, I laid all the full bricks first and got all the edgeing in place. Then, I rented a wet saw and did all the cutting.

That was my original plan, but from what I've been reading, you don't want to leave any uncovered sand out in the rain or anything, so there will be some tarping along the way. I didn't want to get into a situation where I have the entire thing covered in tarps because I'm waiting to cut everything at once. This would be the more economical way, but we wind up with too many frogs in need of manual relocation when we put tarps down.

 

[Egon]

Using an angle grinder with a concrete blade to score the pavers and then break them may be another way to go. One of the cheapest ways equipment wise.

 

[EddieWalker]

I use this for the same things, but also use it allot for Hardi Siding on homes I'm working on.

Eddie:

I am soon to replace some severly weathered T-111 panels on a building and I want to use Hardi panels (4x8').

What fastener do you use with Hardi panels (galvanized or plain, nails or screws)?
Do you predrill for the fasteners?

What type of paint primer do you use for the Hardi panels? Is an alkaline-tolerant primer necessary or advised?

Is regular latex a good choice for a topcoat?

Thanks for your advice.

Arkaybee

For the 4x8 panels, you need house wrap underneath, but sheething isn't required. If you put on the lap siding, you need the sheething.

I use a Dewalt Roofing, coil nailer to install the Hardi panels and siding. Nails that are rated for shingles are perfect for Hardi. The trick is to adjust your nail gun so the nail heads hold the Hardi snug, but don't break through. Kind of like hanging sheetrock. You don't want to over hit the nails or overscrew the scres and break through the paper. It's better to have the head stick up and tap it flush with a hammer, then to drive it into the Hardi board.

For Hardi trim, I use a framing nail gun.

I'v painted it with everything from Walmart, to Lowes, Home Depot and McCoys. I've never found a paint that didn't hold up real well to it and cover in one coat. Rememember, it's a solid material that does not absorb or soak up any paint!!! Just about any latex, exterior paint will work fine.

Here's a picture of the house I'm building right now.

Eddie

 

[Bird]

I know there are a lot of paint brands, some better than others, and of course, with different opinions, so "you mileage may vary", but . . . .

About 4 years ago, one of our daughters had her double wide mobile home re-painted. It's Hardipanel siding and was a gray color. She had it painted a cream color. Now I was taking bets that it would take at least 2 coats to change colors and look decent. However, she had it done with Behr paint from Home Depot; one coat and it looked great, and still does.

And right now a son-in-law is doing a job with Lowe's Valspar paint. It definitely takes 2 coats to look decent; both interior and exterior. Don't know yet whether it will hold up any better, any worse, etc.

 

[radman1]

I hope I'm not pushing the bounds too much of asking a not-exactly-tractor question here. But, I've been using my tractor to help me put in a walkway, and I'm at the point where I'll be laying pavers soon. About 46 feet of the walkway is curved, so there will be a lot of cutting involved.

My initial thought was to rent a wet saw, but this part of the project could easily take weeks to do with limited time available. So, now I'm thinking about buying a saw. Dry saws seem to be much cheaper than wet saws. From some of the things I've read, it seems that dry saws actually make better cuts and don't distort the color of the pavers, but they're more prone to causing health problems. Considering that I'm not going to make a career of cutting pavers, I THINK the health thing would be okay, as long as I'm safe about things.

Any thoughts or anything about a saw purchase? Any recommended brands or models? I'll be cutting pavers and wall blocks both. They're standard EP Henry pavers that are 2 3-/8" thick (if I remember right), and the wall blocks are Coventry Garden Wall blocks, which are 4" thick.

Thank you!

I use my Delta metal cutoff saw with a dry cut 14" diamond tipped blade. I have cut lots of pavers, brick and thick 6" retaining wall blocks. I have also rented chain saw-type cut off saws and used my own diamond blade to cut lines in the cement of my pole barn. A diamond tipped blade for cutting block and pavers will last a very long time, vastly longer than several abrasive blades. Abrasive blades also wear down and the diameter gets small, making thick cuts difficult. Not true with a diamond blade.
The dry blades produce lots of dust. Best to work upwind if possible. My diamond blades are porter-cable but brand may not be important. I have used both continuous rim and segmented rim blades but didn't notice a big difference in how they cut. A metal cutoff saw is probably the cheapest saw that will handle a 14" blade.