Welding Rod for wear bar on bucket?

RichS · Oct 24, 2001

I am going to be stick welding a wear bar on my bucket this weekend and was wondering if anyone wanted to give me suggestions on what you guys have used. I have a lincoln AC welder that I will be using.

Thanks in advance for the info.

Rich S.

HR_Mutt · Oct 24, 2001

RichS.
I like 7018
regards
Mutt

gordon · Oct 24, 2001

Not a bad choice. Nice dragging rod with a good tensile strength.

Gordon

JJT · Oct 24, 2001

I bolted on an 8" cutting bar, (originally for a skid steer bucket). Significantly increased the rigidity of the bucket and it's reversable, (not that it will wear out in my life time...)

zenmek · Oct 24, 2001

RichS, 7018 would be a real good choice, a few things to help you are..if the metal is dirty/painted/rusted /w3tcompact/icons/mad.gif then clean it to bare metal @ your weld points, also if the metal you are welding is greater than 1/4" i would "V" it some to ensure good penetration cause 7018 is a low penetration rod. A good weld and good setup will keep your wear bar in place forever /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

gordon · Oct 24, 2001

Another option that should be looked into as well. Nothing wrong with a bolt on bar. Shame is by the time you do want to reverse it, you need new bolts as well. Still alot easier than cutting off a welded on edge. But that won't be in your lifetime./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

I've also seen on buckets where they welded another cutting edge onto the the wore out one. Served the purpose. Also have seen them just hard face them to add new material onto the existing cutting edge.

Gordon

RichS · Oct 25, 2001

Just regular ol' 7018. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif Geez I thought I was going to need to buy some specialty rod. I use that a lot now since I am not the best welder, kind of like a hacker, and it is the most forgiving. Feel pretty stupid. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

I thought about the bolt on bar but figured that would be more expensive than just throwing down a couple of beads of weld. And as you all have pointed out. It will probably out live me and if not, grind what is left off and throw another one down.

Thanks for all of your help and time.

Rich S.

EdDekker · Oct 26, 2001

If you want to hardface the existing edge Stoody (http://www.stoody.com) ,US Alloys (http://www.usalloysweldtech.com/ , and Rankin) make a variety of hardfacing and tool steel electrodes, MIG wire, spray powder and TIG rod.

'The Basics of Hardfacing and other welding for construction equipment repair' by Grading and Excavation Contractor magazine is a good introduction. The article recommends not using 7018 for either buildup or hardfacing.

There is a trade-off between abrasion resistance, impact resistance and materials used. Stoody publishes booklets on the selection of the proper hardfacing material including the Guide books:'Refurbishing/hardfacing of Earth-Moving Equip' and 'Rebuilding & Hardfacing of Farm Implements' http://www.stoody.com/litrequest.asp?div=stdy.

A google search of the archives of the newsgroup sci.engr.joining.welding will give more information on hardfacing (and welding in general). One of the regulars in that group, Ernie Leimkuhler, compiled a web reference list of links useful for Welding and metal work. The links can be found at http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/Metal-links.html (The magazine article above is from Ernie's compilation.)

Ed

RJohnson · Oct 26, 2001

Rich,
You might want to use the E7018-1 electrodes. This rod is rated at a lower impact value (read tougher) than the standard electrode. Also any type of true wear bar is usually a harder base metal than the bucket you are welding to. I would preheat the area that you are welding to reduce the chance of cracking. About 200 to 250F should do it.

Randy