Welding cast aluminum....
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AllByteNoBark
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Can't tell exactly where it is. Maybe JBWeld might be easier. I've had good luck with it on a similar situation.
RNeumann
Elite Member
It can be TIG welded. Maybe brazed. But if it’s mine I’d try epoxy (like the JB Weld mentioned above) first. Get it clean, dry and the surface roughed up. Make a cone or point that will push through the hole to help anchor the epoxy.
ruffdog
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TIG weld? With the size of the casting and if it was still bolted together, you would really have to turn up the heat to battle heat loss. It works best to use a torch to preheat the area but that works best disassembled. Any oil seeping through the hole also contaminates the weld and the hole may become worse. I would try JB weld first...clean it good (brake cleaner and air compressor)...force some JBW into hole by smearing with finger, then make cap.
Motorboatin
Gold Member
welding cast aluminum isnt any different than extruded. It just depends on the casting. Some are dirtier than others and its easier to clean the crap out of the weld with tig. We weld extrusions to castings all the time with mig or tig depending on the part
3Ts
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Do NOT use brake cleaner when welding!
Arc Welding 1 1: Cleaning material with brake cleaner before welding
the old grind
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Use denatured alky or lacquer thinner for final de-grease before applying epoxy as suggested.
NO WELD if it can be avoided. UV can generate phosgene gas from mystery components in brake or carb cleaners.
I worked 'air leak test' & 'dunk repair' in the transmission plant at GM. Non-pressurized porosity areas in cases were epoxied and painted silver, retested, and then sent to shipping dock.
I'd use a 'slow set' vs J-B Quick. There'll be do overs if prep didn't provide a good 'tooth' for the patch & it falls off, and I concur that welding isn't the only way or necessarily the best.
NO WELD if it can be avoided. UV can generate phosgene gas from mystery components in brake or carb cleaners.
I worked 'air leak test' & 'dunk repair' in the transmission plant at GM. Non-pressurized porosity areas in cases were epoxied and painted silver, retested, and then sent to shipping dock.
I'd use a 'slow set' vs J-B Quick. There'll be do overs if prep didn't provide a good 'tooth' for the patch & it falls off, and I concur that welding isn't the only way or necessarily the best.
ruffdog
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Good catch. I would use lacquer thinner to degrease but typed in the BC just as an bad example. The point was...it has to be oil free.
mrmikey
Veteran Member
Clean to shiny metal, rough it up slightly with a chisel or a sharp centerpunch, wipe off with brake cleaner and epoxy. You put heat to that without taking it completely apart all you're going to do is draw the oil to the hot area and make a mess........Mike