Weights for my 445 AWS

[ddodge68]

So, rather than buying a new unit, I thought it would be much less expensive to take the advice from a few members here on the forum, and try the weights, and possibly chains. I have a couple of questions. First, can I put fluid in the tires? Will it help? What other kind of weights are recommended around here? Is there something that I can bolt on to the back end of the tractor, to get the weight back a little further?

On a completely separate note, I have noticed that my tractor smokes fairly heavily, and lugs a bit while climbing that same hill that I have been talking about. Is this cause for concern, in your estimation?

Thanks a ton for all of your help!!!

 

[The Baron]

I have a 455 and yes, I put fluid in the tires. The most durable way to keep fluid in the tires is to buy a heavy inner tube and then cut the valve stem out. Buy a Valve stem from an auto parts store which is made for fluid and glue it on. Then fill with fluid and away you go. The nice thing about this is you won't be doing it again in 1 year when the valve gets eaten out by the fluid. I have both the lug tires and the turf tires with fluid in them. The lug tires REALLY make a difference. Hope this helps, Tim

 

[Gittyup]

If I were going to go the fluid route (which is a good idea), I'd consider foam rather than fluid. I say this because flats have been a real pain for me. These flats are usually slow leakers rather than outright big punctures. All my tires now have slime in them, and they are dry rotting after 15 years. If they were foam filled, I would never have a flat and the dry rotting could be allowed to progress quite far before the need to replace. However, the foam is expensive, creates a rougher ride, and doesn't allow you to adjust tire pressure to gain some traction. When I replace my tires or get a new tractor, I'm going foam.

On the weights. JD makes suitcase weights to fit your tractor. They also have weight brackets that can be added front and back. They go on and off without tools. Last I checked, a month or so ago, the weights were like $57 each. They are something like 40 lbs each. I'd get four of them. Not sure how much the weight brackets cost. Weights will sit out back of tractor about a foot or so.

The weights on the back of mine also server as a good shelf for a 15 gallon sprayer. I bungee cord it right to the bracket. Sits there perfectly. I installed a permanent wire set from the battery to the back with a quick disconnect for the sprayer. Works great. Sprayer on and off in less than a minute.

Here is a photo of my 425 AWS with weights and chains (and my awesome little hydraulic dump trailer).

 

[TimS]

Just to give you my perspective, I have a non-AWS 455. I use front and rear wheel weights year 'round - 30 pound front and 70 pound starter weights on the rear. I add up to 12 suitcase weights on the 3-point when using the loader.

Adding more weight on the wheels (filled tires, wheel weights) would be my first choice - low center of gravity for safety, and keeps the weight on the ground instead of adding stress to your bearings and the steering mechanism.

Filled tires would be a good way to go, just go with beet juice or something other than calcium, which rots out your rims. I have not heard good things about foam (apparently it is heavy but rides terrible) but it sure doesn't leak!

A post in the other thread indicated that wheel weights couldn't be used with chains on AWS 4x5s. If this is so, my manual did not mention it - the only thing it said relative to AWS and wheel weights is that you need to put the bolt head on the rim side, with the nut to the outside, to get the clearance you need. The manual did say you need the wheel spacers to run chains.

Suitcase weights on the rear would also be a choice. They are certainly the simplest to get on and off, once you have the bracket for them. Center of gravity is a bit higher than the other choices, and your bearings are carrying the weight.

If it were me doing it, I would try wheel weights first - relatively easy to put on, and if you don't like them you can just sell them again. But if you already have a weight bracket on the rear, and / or own suitcases already, that might get the nod. Then once you find out what amount of weight works, you could put a more permanent solution in place.

Tim

 

[pennwalk]

About wheel weights. The old style were cast iron and came in two sizes heavy and really heavy. You can stack 2 sets together for more weight. The cast iron are pretty durable too. The new style are cement filled plastic. On the rear weights. Newer tractors come equipped for click and go. You can add the click and go adapters to an older tractor. The click and go rear weight bracket is really nice if you plan to take it off, for example if you use a three point hitch. The old style rear weight bracket bolts on to the frame. I found repeatedly taking it on and off to be a pain. If you need more traction but don't want to go with bar tires JD is selling something called heavy duty all purpose HDAP as an option on new tractors. They are more like snow treads. I don't know if they are harder in the grass but with AWS you have to be careful.

Chris

 

[TimS]

I checked the manual on wheel weights for AWS 4x5 tractors. Apparently the cast iron wheel weights can be used, one or two on each wheel, with the bolt heads to the inside as mentioned above. Due to the different wheel offset on the AWS tractors, neither the cast iron starter weights nor the plastic-covered concrete weights can be used.

Tim

 

[Gittyup]

I checked the manual on wheel weights for AWS 4x5 tractors. Apparently the cast iron wheel weights can be used, one or two on each wheel, with the bolt heads to the inside as mentioned above. Due to the different wheel offset on the AWS tractors, neither the cast iron starter weights nor the plastic-covered concrete weights can be used.

Tim

Manual isn't clear when you want to have both spacers for chains AND wheel weights. I'd ask a dealer about this before I invested. My dealer told me they were incompatible, and it probably cost him more to say this because I had already paid for wheel weights and chains/spacers. When they discovered they wouldn't work with chains, they installed the weight bracket and two weights for the same price.

 

[TimS]

Manual isn't clear when you want to have both spacers for chains AND wheel weights. I'd ask a dealer about this before I invested. My dealer told me they were incompatible, and it probably cost him more to say this because I had already paid for wheel weights and chains/spacers. When they discovered they wouldn't work with chains, they installed the weight bracket and two weights for the same price.

I think what you're saying is that according to your dealer, the wheel spacers (which you need for the chains) and wheel weights are incompatible - have I got that right? Did you ask what it is about the setup that's incompatible? I can't see what would make it not work.

Tim

 

[pennwalk]

I am running a 425 AWS I have the spacers on and put the weights on when I need them. They are the lighter 50# cast iron weights . I have steel chains but I have never had them on but I also have rubber chains and I have used them. I wonder what is incompatible?

Chris

 

[Gittyup]

I think what you're saying is that according to your dealer, the wheel spacers (which you need for the chains) and wheel weights are incompatible - have I got that right? Did you ask what it is about the setup that's incompatible? I can't see what would make it not work.

Tim

That's right, Tim. That's what the dealer said. I was so happy to not be using that ol slow Gravely, I never question it. I thought he said something about having to mount the rims inside out. Maybe it's not true. Certainly seems to be working for Pennwalk.