Rotary Cutter Want to keep woodland trails clear

   / Want to keep woodland trails clear #1  

fisheye

New member
Joined
Jul 7, 2014
Messages
14
Location
Kincardine, Ontario
Tractor
Kubota MX5000
I need some advice. I want to keep the trails in my woodlot clear of new growth. The trails are winding and not level and have exposed roots and stones as well as ruts. I have also a small meadow that I would like to cut once in a while to keep it a meadow. The meadow has rocks sticking up 3 to 6 inches high. I would like the cutting width to be 5 feet. Is a rotary cutter the proper tool for these type of tasks or would something else be more appropriate? If a rotary cutter could handle these jobs what should I look for in features eg shear pins, slip clutch, blade protection etc. I will be pulling it with a 50 hp Kubota.
 
   / Want to keep woodland trails clear #2  
I don't think anything will last when dealing with rocks sticking up. A heavy duty rotary cutter will only last so long when hitting them.

Can you ad dirt to the area and build it up so it can be mowed without hitting rocks?
 
   / Want to keep woodland trails clear #3  
I want to keep trails in my woodlot clear of new growth. The trails are winding and not level and have exposed roots and stones (gravel?) as well as ruts.

I have also a small meadow that I would like to cut once in a while to keep it a meadow. The meadow has rocks sticking up 3 to 6 inches high.

Is a rotary cutter the proper tool for these type of tasks or would something else be more appropriate? I will be pulling with a 50 hp Kubota.


Without knowing the length of your trails and the area of your meadow we have no idea what a reasonable implement budget may be.

For the trails and woodlot (?), where you want them clear, I suggest a Tandem Disc Harrow with pans either 20" in diameter, which will weigh around 900 pounds, or pans 22" in diameter, which will weigh around 1,100 pounds with 5' operating width.

The front gangs of a Disc Harrow throw dirt OUT, allowing you to remove center crown. The wider rear gangs of a Disc Harrow gather dirt IN allowing you to collect dirt from trail edges to fill ruts. You make front/rear gang pressure adjustment with the Three Point Hitch Top Link.

Over time notched Disc Harrow pans will mince the roots. A heavy Disc Harrow will not be damaged by reasonable rocks, it will roll over them. A Disc Harrow with 9" pans spacing can handle rocks better than a Disc Harrow with 7" pan spacing. Gravel type stones will not degrade 20" or 22" diameter pans, which are pretty thick.

I use a Monroe Tufline Tandem Disc Harrow with 20" diameter pans for trail and dirt road maintenance regularly.

I do not suggest a Disc Harrow for the meadow based on your description.

LINKS (2): https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/attachments/332493-tandem-lift-disc-harow-monroe.html?highlight=

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...ing-three-point-hitch-mounted.html?highlight=


If your meadow is less than one acre a heavy duty lopper to cut saplings and a heavy duty weed whacker may be the most appropriate tools. You will not be able to maintain the meadow grass short with rocks protruding 6" high. Can you remove the 6" rocks, or are there too many?

I trust you never purchased the Backhoe you were contemplating in July 2014, or you would have those protruding rocks out of the meadow.
 

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   / Want to keep woodland trails clear #4  
The disc harrow is a great option. I have used many over the years, but mostly for field work.

There is actually two different questions here: How do I maintain a trail in the woods? And how do I maintain a meadow? Both deserve different attention and require different solutions.

I also live in the woods with trails and meadows. If you wish to maintain them with your tractor, you will need to prep the areas first.

What I did (and still do from time to time) on the trials:

Mow with rotary mower. Wider than you think you will need. Not by much, but if you are looking at a 5ft swath, then hug one side and overlap the other. I would say keep it out to 7ft. This way, overgrowth can creep in without choking the path. Remove all trees (+roots), rocks, stumps, mounds, etc before mowing. A box blade is handy for this, as well as an FEL. This is for future maintenance. Once this stuff is cleared, you can mow with confidence that there is nothing too horrible to damage your rotary mower in the future.

For the meadows, my first question would be what are you wanting to do with them? Are you looking to plant a food plot for wildlife? For you? Or do you just want to drive out to them to play with your tractor? I turned all of the natural clearings on my property into either ponds or food plots for deer and other wildlife. Here is what I did. I walked them and flagged the rocks, the stumps, and other debris. Then I mowed around those areas to be able to see better. Then I left the big rocks that I could not move, and removed the others. I then dug out the stumps down enough to cut them off and bury the rest of the roots. I removed the other debris (former owners left garbage, fence materials, and dead tires in these areas) to leave a cleared meadow. I then plowed some of the areas (mostly in the middle) and plated the different seed mixes for a wildlife food plot. I maintain these plots yearly, by doing some light mowing, and seed casting, maybe clean up a fallen tree. I also throw out salt licks and sometimes a hay bale for the deer to eat.

If you are looking to have a simple meadow, just wild grasses and shrubs, just let nature take care of it. No need to mow it or plow it. If you are needing/wanting to maintain the meadows, then you will need to clear or mark the areas that will damage equipment. Food plots (gardens) are a complete different animal. If your meadows are nothing but weeds and thistle, and you cannot have that (our county weed board has been hammering my neighbors) then you will need to take them to dirt and plant what you want. In any case, you will need to remove the rocks and other things that will damage equipment first. Hope this helps.
 
   / Want to keep woodland trails clear #5  
My rough trails and small meadows are loaded with roots and 6" high rocks much like you describe. A lot of places I mow I can't get the tractor because of steep side hills and obstructions like stumps, ruts, and boulders. They are old skid trails I have not upgraded yet. I do use a rotary mower though. It is small and self contained and I pull it with my wheeler and the rig is very maneuverable. I set the blade up higher than 6" so it cuts brush and heavy stalked stuff like golden rod or ferns fine but tends to bend over whispy grasses. Leaving the grass is fine by me and I don't hit the rocks.

BushHog.JPG

gg
 
   / Want to keep woodland trails clear
  • Thread Starter
#6  
I guess I should have explained the length of trails and size of meadow I want to maintain. I currently have about 3 kilometers of trail and will eventually put in more. The meadow is about 2 acres in size and is a former pasture that the surrounding forest is trying to reclaim. I want to eventually put in a food plot in clearing. The cultivating disks should also be handy for the putting in a food plot. I wondered about the use of disks to work the trails but have no experience with them. I like your suggestion to use a set on the trails. Will they bounce up and over rocks without damaging the disks? I did get a BH92 backhoe for my tractor and I love it. I am in a longterm project digging a pond. Eventually I will get to work removing all of the rocks that are sticking up in my meadow and along my trails but that would be a summer long project that I don't want to tackle right now. Thanks for your advice.
 
   / Want to keep woodland trails clear #7  
I have 6 acres of sloped open field that I manage with a 60" rotary cutter. I have 7 acres of a steep hill with mixed hardwood/softwood and a ground surface as preciously described. My trail in the woods was originally a skidding trail and was first cut/cleared of new growth with my weedeater/bushwhacker. Where I could get the tractor I trimmed down all the new growth small saplings with the rotary cutter, and with a toothbar on the FEL and 60" box scraper on the back I dig out the stumps, roots, and movable surface rocks.
 
   / Want to keep woodland trails clear #8  
Disc will churn up the hard pack on the trails. That may not be what you want, depending on what you're using them for.
 
   / Want to keep woodland trails clear #9  
With a rock garden as a field and the fact you have a hoe for the tractor I would use it to scratch out the surface rocks in the field and trails. Use the teeth to filter out rocks and grade with the hoe bucket as you go...may take some time but using tillage equipment will get beat to death in rock. If not to bad for rock then a chisel plow and several passes then start picking rocks...but I say the hoe may be the best option and I have done it on my rock infested soils and leaves a mowable surface when done.

Oh ...I would do it before any real growth starts as well whenever that is for you.
 
   / Want to keep woodland trails clear #10  
If you can rent a rock picker like one of the small PTO powered hydraulic Shulte units they can dig up a lot of rocks and then you can dump them in a pile out of the way or use them for a project

Renting a rock picker for a couple of weeks when the ground is dry would save you a lot of work and eliminate a lot of potential rock damage.
 
 

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