Walkout Basement Entrance Re-Do

[jrdepew]

All,

I have a ranch with a walkout basement in rainy upstate NY. When the house was first built there was a basement garage entrance and the original owner parked his car in the basement. At some point in the past, the garage door was removed, the opening was framed in with 2x4's, and a large set of double doors was installed. These operate like french doors, so there is a huge opening when both are open. This is very nice for moving large objects in/out of the basement. There is also a covered walkway over the door leading to the garage about 8' away. The problem I noticed since I bought the house is that heavy driving rain will still soak the doors and the water weeps under the door frame and wooden frame around it. I can now see mold starting at the bottom of the framing. Finally, the way the door is anchored is poor at best, and the doors to not feel sturdy when closing them. All in all...this was a little bit of a hack job.

This spring I want to replace the moldy 2x4 framing and weak door with a sturdier, more weatherproof setup. My plan right now is to rip the whole existing assembly out. Depending on how the bottom plate was mounted to the concrete, I may be drilling holes and dropping anchors to attach the new bottom plate. Here is my initial plan and some questions:

1. Use all 2x6 framing, so I can better insulate and have a sturdier structure when complete.

2. To seal the base board, I was going to use closed cell foam that is sold for sealing rim-joists in new construction laid down first. Should I skip the foam and use a sealing adhesive here instead? Foam and adhesive? I am mostly worried about sealing against water intrusion at this gap.

3. For the base board, should I just use 2x6PT pine? Alternatively, I could use a piece of plastic decking like azek, then a piece of PT pine on top. This would ensure that no wood was coming into constant contact with water. The rest of the framing will most likely be 2x6PT since this is a relatively small area to frame and I want to avoid any chance of mold. I have never framed with metal studs before, but this may be a good application?

4. Insulation...I was going to use foam board cut to fit the joist cavities and then glued in place with greatstuff foam. Again...nothing to stay wet and get moldy.

5. Doors...I am lost here. I would like to stay with the current style of door if possible, as the wide opening is very nice when I am carrying coal into the basement, carrying wood into the basement. Does anyone have any good suggestions on a nice set of exterior steel clad double doors?

6. Exterior...currently this is painted T111 style siding. I am fine with this look and the siding seems to be holding up very well...I will know more once I start working. I think siding to match the house would look bad here..and I am not sure what else I could use to be honest.

Any other materials I could use to frame/insualte/etc? I am really open to suggestions here and since I will be pulling the current framing out I will be starting from scratch with a concrete floor and poured concrete walls. I have even been pondering doing masonry. Again, this is in the very initial planning stages and I would like to begin in spring once we can get a string of warmer days.

I will get some pictures of the area posted up soon.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!
Joe

 

[mjcountrybumpkin]

Seal plate with 100% pure silicon. Frame with pt 2x6. Sheat with a 50 year flooring rated osb. Then use standard fiber insulation. Use mold resistant Sheetrock on interior. Not sure on a door in your area, manufactures vary greatly from region to region, but I'm sure your local hardware could help you with a quality door. I have been contracting for 12 years. This is over building so you don't have to worry about doing it again

 

[dave1949]

Any reasonable way to keep the rain off that area?

Maybe a small porch-type roof of some sort, or if it is coming from the roof, a diverter bar on the roof that sends the run-off to the sides.

How is the (former) driveway grade? Is there a good slope down and away from that area, or would installing a drain help?

 

[/pine]

When you say "base board" are you referring to the bottom/shoe plate of the framed walls?...If so I would not use typical silicone/acrylic based sealants...unless the PT has been kiln dried AFTER it was treated...I would be inclined to use a bitumen based sealant...JMO...

 

[dave1949]

Re-read your post.

It might be a good idea to build a low masonry wall about two blocks high. If you have the ceiling headroom, you could even consider setting the door on the wall, or a one-block high section of wall even, and build some steps outside.

A framed wall basically at grade height is a real challenge for durability. Not saying it can't be done, but my first choices would be keep it dry or keep it high. :laughing:

I used to have an entry door at sidewalk-height on a two story north wall with a 1' overhang. Those situations ought to be avoided is what my experience taught me.

 

[BuilderML]

Once you post a picture i'll let you know what i think should be done. Is the concrete floor flush with the face of the exterior wall or does the slab act as a shelf on the exterior?

 

[jrdepew]

Here are the pictures. As you can see, the driveway is gravel and seems to drain very well and is level. I do not think any of the water is getting in that way. However, there are two grass banks that approach the doorway that I know I am getting water from. Rain water runs down these banks and past the bottom plate.

Inside shot, notice the mold near the lower portions of the drywall:








Thanks,
Joe

 

[dave1949]

That's not at all what I pictured.

I would remove the dirt that wraps around the door wall. Looks like you could use retaining walls on each end with good drainage behind them.

 

[forgeblast]

I would look and see if there are any drainage lines under the gravel by the door. (Our house the original owner put a gutter drain right across the front of the door. It would fill up and get into the house. I moved it out into the yard and we have no issues now.

 

[jrdepew]

That's not at all what I pictured.

I would remove the dirt that wraps around the door wall. Looks like you could use retaining walls on each end with good drainage behind them.

Retaining walls are definitely in the future plans...the money tree can't seem to keep up with all the projects! Just finished a bathroom remodel and finished a deck (still needs railings) this summer. :drink:

I was looking at the dirt and think I could reshape the banks to move water away from the house instead of towards the door without too much work. That will be part of the plan come spring when I tackle this project.

Thanks!