Volvo EC 45 excavator electrial control panel

kthompson · Aug 31, 2016

I have a Volvo EC 45 mini excavator that is about 14 years old. Bought it from Volvo with about 500 hours on it right at 9 years ago and I will say it now has a total of 12 hours. When I bought the excavator they had just replaced the control panel on it for it only showed 5 hours but they said their records showed it had right at 500 as it was in their rental fleet. Did not ask whey the control panel was replaced but think it failed somehow.

All went great for I will say 4 years and then I could switch it on and the control panel once in a while would not come up properly. The power for the electric over the hydraulic runs through the panel. It is also the display for all systems from temp to hyd pressure and temp as I said all systems. Power for even the fuel pump runs through it.

Well it has over the years gotten worse and worse about powering up to the point I used to cut it off and back on and it went to work or could let the engine run for a few minutes and it powered up. It has gotten now where it may have to run an hour or so before it powers up, IF it does now. Then the next time it may take 10 minutes.

The only thing I have noticed that changed the patterned was when I replaced the battery it seemed the problem got better for a year or so. The machine as a battery disconnect which I do cut the power to the machine off when not using it and take that key with me also for theft reasons.

My big problem is we have no real Volvo mechanics around here and to have Volvo shop come check the machine is just short of a $1,000. No parts, drive here and check what they can. The shop manager I spoke with said the only way we will do that is with the understanding if the control panel is bad we are replacing it right then. Why, they have no way to test the control panel other than to install new panel and see if that solves the issue. Fine how much is the panel, just about $4,000. No labor there just the part. Now if I knew the panel were bad it is easy to switch out, have removed mine to see if anything I could check there. I would say there is about 30 wires going into that control panel. All smaller gauge wires. I talked with the service manager as to how my machine was doing and he said that does not sound right, when the control panel goes they normally go. Mine powering up with the machine running a while is what threw him he said.

I have posted this to heavy equipment forum and no one had any idea and all who had the same issue ended up replacing the control panel. All that said they did said it solved their issue. Machine is well worth a $4,000 repair but it is not worth a $4,000 mistake. One thing I know, Volvo's parts cost. Like the machine but they only sell parts in assemblies.

I feel like there is a relay or switch somewhere that could be the issue. Any thoughts would be appreciated. I think the same control panel is used on several different models. kt

CCWKen · Sep 1, 2016

I'm not a Volvo person and don't play one on TV but the information you've provided would lead me to start looking at the alternator, regulator and/or voltage supply to the panel. Perhaps corroded connectors or a true under-voltage condition. Pay particular attention to Ground leads and make sure they're attached to clean bare metal too. As usual, this offering is worth every penny you paid for it.

Industrial Toys · Sep 1, 2016

I had a friend that bought a Liebherr (sp?) machine. He thought he had the tiger by the tail, until things in this, his first computerized machine didn't work. Only huge bills and guys coming the long distance with lap tops that didn't have a clue. SHAME!

Is your machine computerized? Is everything running on a combus of some sort?

A have been an electronics technician for some time. Generally, I believe that if electronics work sometimes and not at other times, they are not bad. A bad semiconductor junction does not heal itself. I suspect a mechanical issue. Possibly a bad ground. Capacitors can go bad over time and become temperature sensitive, but this usually takes decades and the newer ones are better. Maybe a cold (poor) solder joint, which can be temperature dependent. I have used a heat gun to find these, but it is a very hard thing to find the fault.

kthompson · Sep 1, 2016

Tell you what I am going to do after reading your two comments. Follow your advice and the shop manager who said does not sound like the control panel and maybe run new power and ground to the panel. Will also text voltage from alternator to the panel, well may begin at the panel and work back if need be. It sure will please me. I will keep in mind how much you charged also. lol

Snobdds · Sep 1, 2016

I have had really good luck and service from these guys. There reasonable and good. They fix things I never thought could be fixed. I would call them up and see what they can do...

https://circuitboardmedics.com/

rhunt · Sep 2, 2016

Hi Ken, as mentioned above, this problem could be a loose electrical connection, corrosion at an electrical connection, loose fuse connection or similar areas. Even a faulty contact in a relay. Just my thoughts here, Bob.

kthompson · Sep 4, 2016

I do appreciate each of your comments. Hope this coming Saturday to be able to check out the connections but still plan to first run power to it direct from battery and also the ground to by pass all the connections possible. kt

kthompson · Oct 26, 2016

Well did not need for a while and when Hurricane Matthew hit did. I pulled out the ignition switch and checked the voltage to it and it was about 5 volts. Started to run new power line and something a JD mechanic said came to mind, they run odd and low voltage. So I am trying to find out if there is something that steps down the voltage before the switch. Look at manuals I have and can find a relay and one other device and need to find out what the voltage is suppose to be at the ignition before I run direct line just in case.

I do appreciate each of your help.

kthompson · Jan 18, 2017

Want to update you and thank you for your help. Think have tried each suggestion and so far no change to the system. The only thing I have learned since posting this thread is if I lust turn the switch on and leave it it will also power up or go to working properly in a while. So that proved it was not the alternator giving higher voltage or a connect that needed to be vibrated or engine or hydraulic system heat doing it. Felt that proved it was the effect of the electricity on the system probably heating a part of the control panel.

Did check back with Volvo and think had control panel on order, got surprise on the price, it had dropped or the made a big mistake when they quoted me.

kthompson · Feb 1, 2017

Installed new control unit yesterday and it went right to work with turning key on. Ran machine for about 30 minutes and decided to check all of the displays and got sort of shocked for the only thing that displayed was the hour meter, matter of fact two hour meters. Guess one if for the job and the and other if for the machine over all. Called Volvo today and was told the replacement unit does not have all the displays to it the orginial did only displays the hours but it will alarm if oil pressure drops or engine temp runs hot. I may have missed understood but think he said they are not able to install same software they use to. Guess someone else owns that info. But machine cranked right up and all systems went to work.

Again thank each of your for you suggesstions.