Vinyl Siding Overlay

   / Vinyl Siding Overlay #1  

yooperdave

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Joined
Nov 28, 2001
Messages
1,157
Location
Marinette, WI
Tractor
Tool Cat 5600, LS XJ2025H, Branson 4215HC
I want to install new vinyl siding over my existing wood clap board siding.

How is this easily done?

Do I have to remove my existing wood clap board siding or is there an easier way?

Thanks

Yooper Dave
 
   / Vinyl Siding Overlay #2  
You don't have to remove anything. Before you try to "Hang" the siding you install stryafoam sheets about 1/2" thick, then "Hang" the vinyl off of that.
 
   / Vinyl Siding Overlay #3  
We put vertical strapping (2x2) on with 1.5" styrofoam in between. Nail siding to the stapping.
Toadhills method will work as well. It all depends on how much insulation you want to add.
If the clapboard has curled at all spike it down first.
 
   / Vinyl Siding Overlay #4  
Yep, you can use different thicknesses of styrofoam, depending on how much insulation you think you need, or in my case, I had Alcoa Structure vinyl siding put on with the styrofoam bonded to the vinyl instead of putting sheets of styrofoam on the walls first. I liked it because it's more solid instead of having the void behind each piece of vinyl, but I don't know that it's any better or worse than the usual siding.
 
   / Vinyl Siding Overlay
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I should have mentioned that the vinyl siding was for an attached garage. I do not want to buy any insulation if possible.

I was thinking of screwing down some 1/4" thick plywood sheets. The low spots would be filled with wood blocking where an attachment would be required.

Does this sound acceptable?

Regards,

Yooper Dave
 
   / Vinyl Siding Overlay #6  
The 1/2" foam sheets would be easier to install and should do the job without the trouble of dealing with plywood. If you do want to use plywood it will work as a backer but I prefer foam as it is so much easier.
 
   / Vinyl Siding Overlay #7  
Dave, are you going to do this job yourself? If so, I hope you know that you don't want the nails driven all the way in solid. Instead of nail "holes", the vinyl siding has nail (or screw) "slots" so it can slide back and forth on the nails as it shrinks and expands with temperature changes. My "shop" had T-111 siding, so I had Tyvek put on first, then the vinyl with polystyrene foam (instead of styrofoam as I said before) bonded to it. You know you can put 1/4" styrofoam on the walls first if you don't care about adding insulation and I think it would be cheaper than the plywood, but of course there's no other reason I can think of for you to not use the plywood if that's what you want.
 
   / Vinyl Siding Overlay #8  
If you have some contractor friends, see if you can borrow a Bostich stapler setup for vinyl. As Bird points out, it is important to allow the vinyl space to expand and contract and this gun automatically spaces the staples leaving ample space. Once you get the hang of it, you can really fly. The cutter has to hustle to even begin to keep up. A sliding compound miter saw with a plywood type blade (small teeth) will help. Putting up all the trim pieces takes the most time; the field can be knocked off in no time at all.
 
   / Vinyl Siding Overlay #9  
1/4" ply would work fine but you would not be sorry going with the 1/2" styrofoam SM. Makes the garage a bit warmer and probably no extra cost over plywood.
 
   / Vinyl Siding Overlay
  • Thread Starter
#10  
How do you detail around the doors and windows & corners with the added thickness of the insulation behind the vinyl? Can you buy deeper C-channels?

Menards has their 0.046" thickness premium vinyl siding on sale now, and I am ready to back up the truck.

Thanks,

Yooper Dave
 

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