vinyl siding for a pole building

[LBrown59]

vinyl siding for a pole building

Does anybody know how to install vinyl siding on a pole building without having the nails protruding through the OSB into the wall cavity?

 

[djradz]

Re: vinyl siding for a pole building

No, in fact, most builders will tell you that it's good that they do as then the nails are less likely to pull out over time, especially if the side is exposed to the sun and lots of expansion/contraction is going on.

 

[LBrown59]

Re: vinyl siding for a pole building

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( No, in fact, most builders will tell you that it's good that they do as then the nails are less likely to pull out over time, especially if the side is exposed to the sun and lots of expansion/contraction is going on. )</font>

==================
I don't see anything good about a wall full of sharp nail points sticking out to get snagged on.
You can't run wiring inside the wall with all those nail points in the way.
You can't even cover the inside of the wall with anything because the nails are in the way.

I don't care what anybody says I will never again install vinyl siding and have nail points in the wall cavity.
We're not talking about a few nails here and there but every nail used to attach the OSB and every one holding on the vinyl siding There must be hundreds of nails like this through evey wall from floor to Ceiling.
My metal pole building don't have this problem with the nails sticking out everywhere inside the walls.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

Re: vinyl siding for a pole building

<font color="blue"> "You can't even cover the inside of the wall with anything because the nails are in the way." </font>

How about a nice layer of spray foam insulation? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[PineRidge]

Re: vinyl siding for a pole building

That didn't seem to be a concern for us. We wanted vinyl siding on our barn and we knew we were going to be heating it anyway for winter work so we studded out the walls almost a full 6" We had plenty of room in the walls for the electric, phone, intercom, water, natural gas, and 6" of insulation under OSB on the inside. It's plenty warm in the winter and the OSB makes a great way to hang ones heavy tools. Plus the OSB is fastened to the walls with deck screws so it can be removed if you want to add something within the wall at a later time.

 

[Soundguy]

Re: vinyl siding for a pole building

I had a detatched stickbuilt 2 car garage plus tack room built in my pasture. it is vinyl sided, and has osb wood backing, and is 'unfinished' inside, I>E> the wall cavities are open.

The Builder ( 4 guys) did the vinyl as well. The simply marked the studs with a chalk line ont he exterior of the osb, and only used studs as nailing points. I did see a few 3/8 inch staple guns being used as well. So far i have not found a single nail or staple protruding in an open cavity.. nowhere.. not even any missed or side poked framing nails ont he studs. After reading a few threads about this.. I'll guess that mine was the exception , and not the rule. I must have just got lucky and got a great crew that new what they were doing??

Soundguy

 

[bugstruck]

Re: vinyl siding for a pole building

Not sure of the wall framing method between the posts. I've built many wood structures using conventinal framing but never a pole barn. Pole barns are the simplest of framed structures but I've not paid them much attention. Most pole barns have vertical post spacing of 8' and larger, as I recall. Seems a riding barn I was in ,which is like a football field under roof, had maybe 10" poles at about 16' on center. I can't see the sense (economy) in post spacing much above that or much below 8' on center. Bear with me, it's a thought in process.... If you are sheathing the exterior with 1/2" OSB it has to be applied to some form of horrozontal strapping between the posts. Otherwise the OSB has no framing upon which to mount. Not that your are, but if your thinking of 8' pole spacing and mounting the plywood horizontal as it's own support, I'd seriously reconsider. Depending on the horizontal span, that could be say 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 material at perhaps 24" on center vertical intervals.
If I'm close on the wall structure you have some options:

1. Increase the horizontal strapping to 16" or 19.2" vertical frequency in lieu of 24" and install vertical vinyl siding which is harder to find and more money but you could nail through the OSB and into the battens and likely meet the product's recommended nailing frequency/ warranty (if you care). Should be very easy to lay out and nail at the strapping members if you are applying a housewrap. If not the nailing in the OSB will be visible and available to follow without any layout. Looks good too.

2. Install 3/4" vertical battens (1 x 2) over the exterior side of the OSB at say 16" on center and at the perimeter of the wall. This will create a void behind the siding and make it more prone to impact damage. You will see a bit more wave to this installation and it may not meet the warranty requirements for the siding. Obviously you have additonal material costs here too. But it will work. I wouldn't try this in extremely hot areas as the southern exposures could suffer distortion over time. You would have to use a 1 1/4" max. length nails which won't penetrate the back side, as the siding nail flange and loose nailing typical of vinyl installations will add another 1/8" to the effective wall thickness.


Hope this helps some.

Good Luck!

 

[PineRidge]

Re: vinyl siding for a pole building

Maybe this will help you to visualize.

 

[bugstruck]

Re: vinyl siding for a pole building

Mike, Man she's a brute and a bute! Great photos. Those photos on the upgrade projects and the instructions are incredible.

This is way off the thread topic and let me know if I should start a new post/ new forum when I do this in the future.. but can't resist..... Now I must admit, I'm intending to close a deal on a L3130 this week so you got it.....I'm visualizing it now /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif ,it's just in a different color.

I''m looking at the triple rear remotes you installed. I'm a least fair at mechanics but I'm not in you're league for organization, detail, or photography. More of quick read up, tear into it, make a mistake or two, and dig myself out, hopefully. On hydraulics I'm not even a novice. Just a laymans understanding of valves (open, close, and moduate volume) and even less on cylinders cause I know there must be a variety of (internal) designs for different functions. Example being I don't have a full grasp of the difference between a loader cylinder and a 3 point cylinder and the associated valving. Just know (think) the 3 point bleeds back under the weight of the itself/attachment in the down mode. I understand (think) there is no down pressure on the 3PT.

Is there any single/couple source(s) of information (book or online perhaps) that would provide some fundamental understanding of hydraulics? Getting fundamentally grounded in hydraulics up here alone will take awhile. Maybe then I could follow guys like you thru these projects without tilting over. Honestly, I don't even know the applied uses of triple remotes except perhaps a log splitter or T&T.

What is that upper cylinder on the 3PT? Perhaps a T&T that I read about? Is that strictly for positioning of attachments or do you obtain down pressure with that?

Do you know any member on the Kubota side who does what you do here? The information you put up has to have helped a number of members.

Too many questions, I know!

Thanks,

 

[PineRidge]

Re: vinyl siding for a pole building

Chris so as not to hijack this thread I'm going to send you a PM for your questions. Thanks! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif