Box Scraper Using a box blade correctly

[gsxrsquid]

I am sure there is a post somewhere but I need to know how to use a box blad correctly. I am sure you need to float it right?

In the past I have had piles of dirt I knocked down and needed to level out.
Evventually I ended up using the FEL and back bladed to get the results I wanted. Someone told me box blades are what float is designed for. I would appreciate any info on this. thanks

 

[mfrost]

1. tilt it forward by using top lick, it cuts
2. make the box level by using the top link and it drags the dirt in the box where you want it.
3. tilt it back and it feathers dirt out of the box or if empty takes the high spots off and drops it in the low places depending on the the top link adjustment.

To make it fun you need a top and tilt set up. Of course all this depends on what type of soil you are working with. You may need gauge wheels.

 

[chrisjbell]

Using a box blade is pretty straightforward, but there are a number of tricks to using one well. Having a top and tilt makes it *much* easier, but you can get a pretty decent result without one. Like the previous post mentioned, if the box is angled forward it will tend to dig in. With it tilted back it will be easier to level.

By adjusting the side link you can create a slope.

If you float the box, it will still want dig if it is angled forward. If it is angled back floating will do a pretty good job of smothing out material.

Depending on your tractor's wheelbase it can be pretty tricky to avoid a washboard effect. Longer wheelbases make it easier to get a smooth, level grade.

Mostly what it takes is practice and experimenting. It takes a while to get good results - in general you will need to make multiple passes over the same area (overlapping is a good thing).

 

[john_bud]

Great advice so far.

One tip is to set the box so it is just starting to kiss the ground with it set level using the top link. Then BACK into the smaller hills that are left over.

I use the box with the 3pt in the full down position most of the time. Except for some finesse work with fussy grades. (Tip 1 above.) You use the top link to determine if you are cutting, moving or smoothing as others have detailed.

If you have an adjustable back blade that can be in either float or fixed positions, use it in float for cutting and course moving, fixed for smoothing and more finesse work. This is almost as important as diddling with the top link length!

Last point was already made, but to re-enforce. Practice practice practice.

jb

 

[gsxrsquid]

Thanks! good advice. What is a top and tilt? a remote top link set up? As soon as I fix the hole in my fuel tank I am gonna give it a shot. doggone stumps mumble mumble. What are gauge wheels (I am afraid to ask.)

 

[greg_g]

Thanks! good advice. What is a top and tilt? a remote top link set up? As soon as I fix the hole in my fuel tank I am gonna give it a shot. doggone stumps mumble mumble. What are gauge wheels (I am afraid to ask.)

TnT is tractor-speak for a hydraulic cylinder that replaces the conventional toplink. That's the "top" part of TnT. It's extended and retracted from the operator seat. The "tilt" part is where one of the vertical links is simarly replaced with a small hydraulic cylinder

Tractors equipped with draft control can use a boxblade to its full potential, as draft can be set to lift the BB back to a preset working height if/when it starts digging too deep. When so equipped, proper application of draft control also pretty much negates any need to fabricate training wheels ---oops, sorry --- gauge wheels.

//greg//