Good morning, and Happy Holidays to all!
I had posted a couple months ago about a JD 755 CUT i purchased that had many, many issues; the biggest of which were the low oil pressure (10 psi at idle), and dysfunctional 4WD. Well, i have done a lot to the tractor, including:
1) Changed all fluids, filters, etc, using correct filters and fluids.
2) Cleaned, cleaned, and cleaned some more
3) Fabricated new side covers to replace missing ones; though i have not yet painted......low priority.
4) Completely rebuilt the trashed bucket....new hardened 1/2" cutting edge and new pins, clips, paint, etc. Looks great.
5) Rebuilt tilt cylinders to stop gush of fluids. I think the lift cylinders still need rebuilt, as lift will not pick up front of tractor. No eternal leaks - possible internal..
6) Rebuilt PS cylinder to stop bad leak. This involved cutting apart and re-welding.. No big deal, and only cost $17 for seal kit. Much better than $300+ for new JD one.
7) New glow plugs and new controller. Now cranks easily in any temperature. All 3 were non-functional and module was missing. PO told me that Yanmars were notorious for being hard-to-start?? Not this one with working GP!
8) Re-worked 3 point linkages with correct pins, links, etc. Got rid of coat hangers, bolts, and whatever else was used. Looks good now, and will work as designed.
9) Fixed broken tach cable, so now has working tach and hour meter. Nice to have!
10) Fixed broken seat belt and brackets, so now has working seat belt. Important to me, as i like feeling safe. Plus, it looks good when it works right!
11) Freed rusted seat mechanism so i can now reach pedals.
12) Repaired all broken/frayed wires, connections, etc. PO said alternator did not work, and battery was no good. Both work fine for me with new wiring!
Still much more i can do. I sort of like this thing, and really want to get things working right! Two things are plaguing me, and this Holiday Season has given me the time to dig deeper. Here are my issues:
Oil pressure......Light flickers at idle, and mechanical gauge confirms 10 psi at idle. I went to my local (Spartanburg, SC) dealer and was quoted over $300 each for rod bearings. After i picked up my jaw, i decided to not pursue fixing but to sell tractor. Well, you all helped me in another post on the parts/repairs forum - thank you. I was able to buy new OEM rod bearings for about $13 each off Ebay. Bought all 3, and was fully prepared to buy mains too, after measuring wear with Plastigage. But, i went to remove oil pan yesterday and some wise PO has secured pan bolts with red loctite and lots of torque. Yep, heads are rounding off. I was able to get one off and saw the red loctite, so i baled on that project until i thought it out a bit, as i am not too crazy about using a torch under a blocked up tractor under a shed attached to my house. I decided to further investigate the second big obstacle to see how bad it is before i commit to removing engine completely.
Ah yes, #1 led me to second big obstacle.....non-working MFWD. PO fully disclosed that it did not work, but stated it was fixable and he had simply removed shaft so it did not make noise. He had very flat ground, unlike me, so not a real issue for him. Turns out, the right side (as viewed from operator's seat - the one with the PS rod attachment point) steering arm has been broken and welded. I suspect that is a contributing cause of issues, but not sure. Weld actually looks quite good. PO did remove the internal drive shaft that goes from differential to the spindle drive. Upon tearing into it, the only significant part i see missing is the 8" spindle vertical drive shaft. Left side assembly appears to all be there, but right side is a mess. I will post more later, but would certainly be interested in buying an entire assembly if anyone has any thoughts on where i can get one. I am very leery about putting this back together with that steering arm having been broken, so even that part alone is a great find if anyone has one. Looks like i can buy a substitute replacement from JD for about $362, but would prefer OEM if available. Any thoughts on this?
I am off today, so will dig deeper, but wanted to give an update, as it has been a while since i have posted. Been hard to get time to work on it, and we are in the midst of monsoon season in SC...HeHe.
I hope you all have a safe and wonderful New Year's Eve and Day. Thank you in advance for any advice you can offer about the above issue.
David in rainy SC
I had posted a couple months ago about a JD 755 CUT i purchased that had many, many issues; the biggest of which were the low oil pressure (10 psi at idle), and dysfunctional 4WD. Well, i have done a lot to the tractor, including:
1) Changed all fluids, filters, etc, using correct filters and fluids.
2) Cleaned, cleaned, and cleaned some more
3) Fabricated new side covers to replace missing ones; though i have not yet painted......low priority.
4) Completely rebuilt the trashed bucket....new hardened 1/2" cutting edge and new pins, clips, paint, etc. Looks great.
5) Rebuilt tilt cylinders to stop gush of fluids. I think the lift cylinders still need rebuilt, as lift will not pick up front of tractor. No eternal leaks - possible internal..
6) Rebuilt PS cylinder to stop bad leak. This involved cutting apart and re-welding.. No big deal, and only cost $17 for seal kit. Much better than $300+ for new JD one.
7) New glow plugs and new controller. Now cranks easily in any temperature. All 3 were non-functional and module was missing. PO told me that Yanmars were notorious for being hard-to-start?? Not this one with working GP!
8) Re-worked 3 point linkages with correct pins, links, etc. Got rid of coat hangers, bolts, and whatever else was used. Looks good now, and will work as designed.
9) Fixed broken tach cable, so now has working tach and hour meter. Nice to have!
10) Fixed broken seat belt and brackets, so now has working seat belt. Important to me, as i like feeling safe. Plus, it looks good when it works right!
11) Freed rusted seat mechanism so i can now reach pedals.
12) Repaired all broken/frayed wires, connections, etc. PO said alternator did not work, and battery was no good. Both work fine for me with new wiring!
Still much more i can do. I sort of like this thing, and really want to get things working right! Two things are plaguing me, and this Holiday Season has given me the time to dig deeper. Here are my issues:
Oil pressure......Light flickers at idle, and mechanical gauge confirms 10 psi at idle. I went to my local (Spartanburg, SC) dealer and was quoted over $300 each for rod bearings. After i picked up my jaw, i decided to not pursue fixing but to sell tractor. Well, you all helped me in another post on the parts/repairs forum - thank you. I was able to buy new OEM rod bearings for about $13 each off Ebay. Bought all 3, and was fully prepared to buy mains too, after measuring wear with Plastigage. But, i went to remove oil pan yesterday and some wise PO has secured pan bolts with red loctite and lots of torque. Yep, heads are rounding off. I was able to get one off and saw the red loctite, so i baled on that project until i thought it out a bit, as i am not too crazy about using a torch under a blocked up tractor under a shed attached to my house. I decided to further investigate the second big obstacle to see how bad it is before i commit to removing engine completely.
Ah yes, #1 led me to second big obstacle.....non-working MFWD. PO fully disclosed that it did not work, but stated it was fixable and he had simply removed shaft so it did not make noise. He had very flat ground, unlike me, so not a real issue for him. Turns out, the right side (as viewed from operator's seat - the one with the PS rod attachment point) steering arm has been broken and welded. I suspect that is a contributing cause of issues, but not sure. Weld actually looks quite good. PO did remove the internal drive shaft that goes from differential to the spindle drive. Upon tearing into it, the only significant part i see missing is the 8" spindle vertical drive shaft. Left side assembly appears to all be there, but right side is a mess. I will post more later, but would certainly be interested in buying an entire assembly if anyone has any thoughts on where i can get one. I am very leery about putting this back together with that steering arm having been broken, so even that part alone is a great find if anyone has one. Looks like i can buy a substitute replacement from JD for about $362, but would prefer OEM if available. Any thoughts on this?
I am off today, so will dig deeper, but wanted to give an update, as it has been a while since i have posted. Been hard to get time to work on it, and we are in the midst of monsoon season in SC...HeHe.
I hope you all have a safe and wonderful New Year's Eve and Day. Thank you in advance for any advice you can offer about the above issue.
David in rainy SC
