Type of oil and coolant for my new tractor

NTG · Nov 3, 2016

I just bought a 2016 New Holland Workmaster 33. It is a diesel and has the tier 4b final exhaust deal on it. I'm reading my manual and it says I need 15W-40 DPF compatible CJ-4 oil. According to the manual, New Holland's is "Ambra Mastergold HSP engine oil SAE 15W-40". Does Walmart sell anything like this or am I going to have to go to my dealer to buy this? As long as it's marked CJ-4 15W-40, is it ok?

Also, the manual says it uses 50/50 ethylene glycol and water for coolant. Is that the regular 50/50 coolant I can buy at Walmart? The manual says I can use regular ethylene glycol or drain that and swap it to the OAT coolant. When the tractor is ready for the first coolant change, should I swap it out? And can you buy OAT coolant at Walmart or Autozone somewhere like that, or will I have to get that from my dealer as well?

I'm thinking that if I have to go to the dealer for all this, I'll order a couple cases along with maybe 3 air filters so I have everything in stock when it gets time to change things as my dealer is over an hour away. Thanks.

Oh yeah, I haven't found anywhere in the manual where it gives a number for the oil filter. Can I just get the number off the filter and buy a matching one at Walmart, or does that have to be from the dealer also?

And last question..... sorry, I'm trying to remember things as I go......

Do I need to add a diesel additive in my fuel to clean my injectors, or is that not necessary? If so, is that an all the time thing, or just an "every so many fillups" kind of thing?

nybirdman · Nov 3, 2016

New machine ,still under warranty;I would purchase from dealer any and all fluids.Then there is no question if you have a problem.Keep receipts and good records if you do your own services.
Being up North were use PowerService in our fuel;may not need it down south.

Thomas · Nov 3, 2016

I agree 100% w/nybirdman...you never know.

beowulf · Nov 3, 2016

Regarding the coolant - I researched this issue here and elsewhere and concluded that I should use a coolant made specifically for diesels. The one I found, and which apparently satisfied all of the issues regarding using other non-diesel specific coolants, was Fleet Charge SCA - available at Tractor Supply - $16.99. It is not pre-diluted so you have to make sure you add water (distilled water - Walmart - about 90 cents a gallon) to get the percentage mix you want.

The specs from TSC site:
Fleet Charge SCA Precharged Fully Formulated Antifreeze & Coolant is a fully formulated, ethylene glycol-based coolant, precharged with advanced technology Supplemental Coolant Additives (SCAs). Because it is SCA precharged, Fleet Charge SCA Precharged Antifreeze & Coolant requires no SCAs at initial fill and ensures proper chemistry at every top-off. Fleet Charge SCA Precharged Antifreeze & Coolant uses a low silicate and phosphate-free formulation. For use in all heavy-duty diesel, gasoline, and natural gas engine cooling systems. Provides corrosion protection of all cooling system metals and components. Optimum protection against freezing and boil over. Incorporates nitrite to provide wet sleeve liner protection against cavitations. Designed to last the life of the engine when maintained with a high quality SCA filter system.
Eliminates SCA mixing errors at initial fill
Phosphate free formula reduces the risk of scale
Meets or exceeds the following specification requirements: Caterpillar; Cummins 90T8-4, CES 14603; Detroit Diesel 7SE298, 93K217; Ford ESE-M97B44-A (SEC 3.1.1 & 3.1.2); John Deere H24A1, H24C1; Navistar B-1 Type II; Freightliner 48-22880; Volvo/Mack; MTU 5048; GM 1899M; ASTM D4985; ASTM D5345; ASTM D6210; TMC RP329

LD1 · Nov 3, 2016

Rotella T6 (blue jug) is CJ-4 and good to use with DPF. Its sold at walmart.

Oldtink · Nov 3, 2016

Oh boy when it comes to changing antifreeze, that is somewhat of a dark room (for me) but if your owners book says to swap the original out for OAT, one of the new extended life formulas that's what I do. The OAT and HOAT formulas are directed more toward providing protection for aluminum blocks and radiators. I'd seriously question using "regular old antifreeze" IAT in your new cooling system.
The engine oil any of the Rotella family T-5 or T6 meet or exceed the API CJ rating and on the shelf at Wal-Mart though you may find yourself at the auto parts store for filters.

NTG · Nov 3, 2016

I don't think it says to swap it out, it says you can. And they give you a sticker to put on the tractor if you swap it out. I hadn't thought about warranty situations Birdman, so I guess I should at least start out with their stuff and ask them these questions as far as honoring the warranty and what-not. I'm a "read the manual" kind of guy, not a "crank it and go" kind of guy, but unfortunately, when I read the manual, I don't always know what it's saying.

nybirdman · Nov 4, 2016

At least in my situation.I put a bout 125-150 hours a year on my tractor;so this means fluid/filter changes are about every two years.What would be saved by using "generic" brands?Not a whole lot and peace of mind that if anything goes wrong there are records of all my services.

WM75Guy · Nov 4, 2016

I use the NH fluids and have found them comparable in price. While 15W40 is an option for both of mine the manuals say they came from the factory with 10W30. You should not need any except at service intervals. I keep some on hand to top off if ever needed but have never used anything between service intervals.

Copperhead · Nov 8, 2016

Many overlook the 10w30 CJ-4 oils, but they are solid performers, especially the syn blend variety. All, yes ALL of the heavy commercial truck diesel OEM's have been factory filling with 10w30 for quite some time. I even ran a 10w30 in a 2000 MY Detroit 60 12.7L with 600,000 miles on the reman and got exceptional results that met or beat any 15w40 or 5w40 tried before in this motor.

But if one is set on a 40w oil, any of the major brand CJ-4 oils will do the job just fine. For Alabama, a 15w40 would work year round and be the most cost effective choice, as it usually will have the lowest price on the shelf.

As far as coolant, I am totally sold on the red ELC heavy duty coolants. I have been using the Final Charge ELC product for several years in everything from my commercial semi trucks on down to my Cadillac and NH CUT. Even a John Deere Gator. Used it in a 2005 Cummins ISX that went to almost 1 million miles before I sold it. Currently in a factory remanned Detroit 60 that has 615,000 miles on the reman. My 2006 Cadillac 3.6L is using it. My NH got it when I changed coolant in it at about 2 years of ownership. It is a 2003 tractor. The Final Charge product has a 8 year / 20,000 hr life in off highway use. 1 million mile in on highway use. Very cost competitive with most other brands on the shelf. And no having to check SCA's and other nonsense. It uses no SCA's like traditional diesel coolants. I can usually pick up a gallon at local truck stops, a 50/50 mix, for about $13-$14.

OAT Extended Life Coolant - Final Charge | PEAKhd.com

And it is not targeted toward aluminum blocks and motors as some suggest. All of the heavy duty commercial diesels are iron blocks and heads or compacted graphite variety as the Paccar and Navistar engines are, yet they typically factory fill with red ELC OAT coolant, and have been for several years. The commercial grade red ELC covers all the bases.