Turnbuckle adjustment

[scobb99]

Please forgive what may be a dumb question, but I am only 28 hours into my first tractor (a BX2230 which is probably the best thing with 4 wheels I ever bought).

Should turnbuckles be set tight or loose?

I realize it sounds like I should know the answer to this because I have a fairly new tractor, but

a. I've never had a tractor before,

b. the tractor came brush cutter already attached to the 3 pount hitch,

c. I only 'noticed' the turnbuckles when I realized one had shed its bolt, poof, gone! At that point I figured the state of the other turnbuckle was probably not a good guide for turnbuckle setting.

I have replaced the bolt today and am back to having the requisite two turnbuckles but I don't know if they are supposed to be cranked tight or left with some 'play' in them. I do realize that, when they are correctly adjusted, the lock nut should be used to hold them in place.

Any guidance would be much appreciated, by me, and my neighbors, because the missing bolt has put me behind in my weed clearing work and in Florida the weeds grow pretty darned quick.

Steve

 

[Bedlam]

I believe snug is right. I usually snug mine to slow or stop the side to side movement.I assume your talking about the rear 3 point hitch lift arms to the frame buckles I'm sure others will weigh in. Your gonna love the tractor, and also this site...
Al

 

[ericbx1500]

Just make them snug so there is no side to side movement and you will be good to go.

 

[DaveVales]

My BX24 manual under the Hydraulic Unit section gives a chart titled "Hydraulic Control Unit Use Reference Chart" in which there are guidelines for the check chains.

For moldboard plow, disc plow, harrower, subsoiler it says loose so that the implement can move 2.0-2.4 in laterally - check chains should be tight enough to prevent excessive implement movement when implement is in the raised position.

For weeder, ridger, earthmoved, digger, scraper, manure fork rear carrier, mower (mid and rear mount) hayrake, tedder it says tighten check chains.

No mention of tiller but my tiller manual says to tighten chains.

So it appears that they should be tight for the brush cutter.

 

[scobb99]

Wow, lots of great info in just a few hours. Thanks. I think I am beginning to understand the role of the turnbuckles, e.g. versus the lift arms.

Come to think of it, the brush cutter was swaying a lot when I reversed. I will do some experimentation tomorrow and let folks know what I find.

Definitely think the tractor is great workhorse. I used it to clear some paths and pull down destructive vines just so the surveyors could map out the real trees on this piece of jungle I bought.

Then I hired a professional crew to do some major cleanup (all within strict guidelines we have here about preserving trees) and what did this this crew use? Kubotas. Now the place looks more like a park but I have to keep the weeds under control until the next phase of the landscaping.

Steve

 

[chrisjbell]

You want them reasonably tight, but leave some play in them. You'll notice that when you raise your implement that they can start to "fight" the lift arms in some circumstances. Easy enough to check - get 'em where you think you want them (with a brush hog you don't want it to move a whole lot, but it will tend to swing a bit more in reverse than forward, especially when the wheel on the back swings around to follow), then raise the implement. If they start to look like they are trying to stretch then loosen them a bit.

 

[rdsaustintx]

Man I am the expert on breaking BX check chains.

Am getting better, but also some expertise on re-welding those nuts to the little loops. I also keep a box of spares from TractorSmart. The little nut/loop parts are pretty reasonable. ($4)

They have to be loose enough to accommodate both the 3ph lift AND the slack at your lower hitch pins (the arms pull together when pulling forward, but they push apart when going in reverse).

Also be aware that the check chain is taking a LOT of the load if you turn with an engaged implement. No U-turns with a full box blade! Just hooking a big rock with an outer tine can break the check chain. Broke one like that this morning.

I allow 3-4" of sway at the rear of my box blade. With drawbars I just allow enough slack for the hitch pins to move against stops. Subsoiler is someplace in-between.

If you are doing much ground-engaging you will break one eventually - don't feel alone

Russell in Texas

 

[scobb99]

Just wanted to thank everyone for their input. My brush hog is working much better now and I have a handle on how to adjust it (after inevitable disruption of heavy duty weed whacking).

I got so excited I forgot to take before/after photos, but the impact this little tractor has on heavy Florida brush (palmettos and 20 kinds of vine, including tough Tarzan-type grape vines) is amazing.

Thanks again for the input and encouragement.

Steve
El Tractor

 

[Tom_H]

Tight, but not overtorqued.