TS2205

[Nat]

I have a TS2205, at least I think that is the #, My question is, how can I tell if my glow plugs are working? I have the hole in the instm. panel that you normally see turn red, but mine doesn't. I have felt of the bar between the glow plug with the heater on and do feel it get warm, but doesn't see, to help it start. In all honesty it starts pretty good down to the low 30's without even trying the glowplugs. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks, Nat

 

[RJB]

Look at the attachment and try this /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Rick

 

[revg62]

nat,i have an older ts2200.the part you describe burnt in two on mine after i installed a new battery,probably caused by holding it on too long.attachment is excellent advice,if it starts at that low temp. you're probably ok.i think the name of the part that glows is a control resistor,replaced mine for $35.good to have another iseki owner on board! revg62

 

[Nat]

Thanks for the info. Now on to another question, is the coil that you see in the hole in the instm. panel in series with the glow plugs, does the power flow thru the coil to the plugs, or is it parallel. does the power flow to both the coil and the glow plugs? I traded for this tractor, mainly for trading stock, but have found it to be pretty handy to have around. I already had a 4' bushog and a scrapeblade, and a 6' X 12' tilt bed trailer and have found I use it a good bit for cleaning up around houses. I have a realestate company and a lot of our properties are from companies that buy forclosed property that has been left in , let's say less than perfect condition.
For that reason I need the tractor to start anytime, and don't want to burn up a starter

 

[revg62]

nat,it's in series with glow plugs,at least mine was anyway.no voltage to glowplugs on mine at all! check out the thread titled" glowplug question ts1610",lots of good advice.revg62

 

[EFC]

RJB, your diagram for testing glow plugs works for testing glow plugs that have burnt open and for testing for the presence of voltage. But at least half of the bad glow plugs we replace are a dead short and have no resistance at all. The diagram you show would indicate that the glow plug is fine when maybe it isn’t. Since I see this question come up again and again I will list the procedure we teach new mechanics in the shop for troubleshooting glow plugs.

1. Check for 12vdc at the glow plug (red lead on the glow plug and black lead to a good metal ground)
2. If 12vdc or better is present unhook supply wire and all banding between plugs. (very important! unhook them all! it does matter!)
3. Use ohm meter and read from the top of the plug to ground. Resistance should read between 1.2 and 3 ohms. (if your using a multimeter that has automatic range setting make sure it is not showing 1k ohm or 1m ohm).
4. If ohms are less than 1 ohm then plug is shorted and should be replaced if more than 3 ohms then plug is open or on its way and should be replaced.
5. An ohm is a measurement of resistance like a gallon is a measurement of water. A short is 0 ohms or no resistance to the flow of electricity. An open would be infinite resistance and causing no path for current to flow.
6. And for god’s sake if you use the last roll of toilet paper in the customer bathroom replace it on the little spool!

 

[RJB]

EFC, I normally remove the glow plugs and supply 12v to see if they heat and how fast. The diaghram I posted was downloaded from a major diesel parts supplier. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Thanks for your instruction, Rick

 

[EFC]

RJB, your diagram is a good start for finding voltage and I appreciate you posting it.
If you remove the glow plugs to see if they get hot make sure the threaded area has a good ground on it. Otherwise it will stay chilly.