Current Kioti CK27HST and Cub Cadet 1810. Previous NH1510 Hydro, AC D14, Oliver 1355?, and JD 314 Lawn Tractor
I am into the learning phase for the vintage Yanmar Tractors. Likely will ask some questions that seem simple or misguided to most of the experienced group here. Appreciate any help and please include the additional information I am not knowledgeable enough to ask.
My end objective for the Yanmar is to get a small low cost tractor that could handle a 4 foot light rotary cutter (bush hog). I have two slightly rolling fields that are around 2 and a half acres each. I have these two fields bush hogged about 5 times a year. The friend that bush hogs it now uses a tired Ford 8N with a 5 foot bush hog. Usually the first spring mow is around 3 feet high grass/weeds and the following 4 summer and fall cuttings are usually about two feet high. I would like to get a 4 wheel drive but a 2 wheel drive with R1 ag tires will likely do the job. I have used a 18 HP 42 inch mid-mount deck riding lawn mower to cut the fields. Using the lawn mower I have to cut it more often as the riding lawn mower is challenged cutting more the 12 inches of grass/weeds.
My first though. Would a YM 1500D 18 HP handle a 4 foot light rotary cutter? Am I thinking too small or is there a better price point for a 20 to 24 HP YM Tractor that would be much more capable for not much more money? Open for other thoughts.
Do the YMs with traditional gear transmission have live rear PTO and live hydraulics for the 3 point? Is the Power Shift Transmission on the 10 and 20 series the same with respect to Live PTO and Live Hydraulics?
In my opinion - you want to step up one size from YM1500 to YM2000 for the mowing you describe. My YM186D (same hp as YM1500) is working its heart out to run a 4 ft mower in heavy grass, and it has the advantage of Powershift to bring the mower up to rpm before ever putting the tractor in gear and moving forward. Also I can upshift while moving. My YM240 (YM2000) is harder to get moving in a high enough gear to mow at efficient speed, if the start is uphill in heavy grass. I think a similar manual transmission YM1500 would feel underpowered.
And there should be little price difference YM1500 / YM2000. Contrary to what some may say, I feel 2wd is all you need for a 4 ft rotary mower - at least on a YM2000.
Don't be bashful about asking beginner questions. Everyone here started from that point, asked the questions, and hopefully shared what they learned back with the group eventually.
Powershift allows operation similar to live pto, you let the clutch out to make a complete mechanical connection back to the pto but you don't have to shift the Powershift from N to 1 until you want to move forward. Powershift is about the same as an automotive A/T, with its input as the first thing after the conventional clutch but then its own internal clutches to engage RN123 without touching the clutch again. The hydraulic pump is driven by the engine and hydraulic pressure is available all the time regardless of what else is going on.
Get yourself a YM2000, (B) model if you can find it. It has plenty of power to do what you want and best parts availability of any gray market Yanmar. Start on page 356 and start reading.
I would also find something like the ym2000. it or a 2001 or a 2000b like norm says or 2210 etc. the 24HP tractors would be where i want to start if i was you. the 1500 could do it but at times will be underpowered or slower and they basically cost the same as the 2000. I dont think you need 4wd for what you describe if truly rolling. now if your mowing and do it in boggy conditions it may be nice but these things in 2wd with the diff lock will pull through some nasty stuff.
I own both a 4ft and 5ft light duty bushhog. I have a ym2000 which is a 24hp at the engine and 20hp at the flywheel 2wd tractor. With the 4ft and 3 foot thick grass thats all it wants, put a decent hill in there and your rolling coal on it. I can use the 5fter if the grasss is not super thick and even 2ft tall is not a problem I think i will use it mostly from here out and when needed just cheat in a foot. It can easily lift it and easily spins it and all 5 foot in anything but the thickest grass.
I also have a 24Hp. Ym2000 the same as the 240. I use a 4Ft. BH. and a 5ft. FM.. The 2000 handles them both on my property easily. I mostly use the Rear Discharge Fm. but have 8 acres of wooded area I use a BH.. It's a old International I believe that's built like a Tank! And have no problems using it. My Woods Manufactured JD. Fm. I never Run my Eng. much over 2000rpms.. Now that I have my 2nd. gear on he PTO. working I only run about 1400-1500 Eng. Rpms.. It fits great behind the 2000!!! I mow at least 2.5 acres with it weekly and use maybe 1.5 gal of Diesel a month.
Here's a pick of the BH. since I had it out.
Current Kioti CK27HST and Cub Cadet 1810. Previous NH1510 Hydro, AC D14, Oliver 1355?, and JD 314 Lawn Tractor
Everyone
Thanks for the great input. Exactly what I needed to start my search. The YM2000 (*2000B, 2001. 2210) all sound like they would be better for my use. Any rough estimate what these tractors weigh without added weights or loaded tires?
With a YM2000 and a light duty 4 foot bush hog do I need a front weight? If so are front weights low cost and easy to find?
YM2000 around 1850 lbs. I think 2210 is a heavier tractor, maybe 2300???
I would try mowing first without front weights. You may find the steering too light and imprecise.
'Real' suitcase weights like what were sold for it new are around $1/lb, or less, used. If you're lucky maybe half of that.
It's easy to fabricate something heavy to bolt on to the front bumper. Maybe go to a junkyard for a truck flywheel, or build a box you can pour 2-3 sacks of premix concrete into. One caution, don't build a wide bumper that will interfere with the very short turning radius these are capable of. And the heaviest part should be as far in front of the tractor as possible. You'll never notice if your ballast makes the tractor a little longer, but any additional width that interferes with turning radius will forever be a PIA if you have to work in tight spaces.
I see you already list a couple of tractors. Are any suitable for this mowing?
Very good advise here. Just to chime in. I owned a 1700 for 14 years pulling a 5' rear finish mower. I think that it weighed in at around 1575#. Power was not an issue. I did pull a light duty 5' hog around some and it was too much for the tractor. A 2000 is a great tractor. Parts were not an issue for my 1700 and I would think that the 2000 would not have any issues either. They are very dependable machines.
California's advice on a bumper and front weight is what I based Mine on. Better then cheap FREE!!. It didn't take long to collect enough Old boat Anchors from the local lakes I would frequent Fishing to fill the pipe. If there was stumps with a lot of Ropes chances are there's a anchor. I easily found more then fish I caught. :laughing:
My FM weigh's 611 Lbs.. If I would lift it all the way off the ground It would get extremely light on the front end. The bumper I added Works perfect by just adding 50-55 Lbs. of Lead and keeping it short and out of the way.
I use a 6ft Bush hog brand Finish mower on my ym2000. Its too much mower for anything more than biweekly mowing but i can make it work and will cheat in a bit as well. It will make the front light almost non steerable and the tire will come off the ground on a bump Bush hog lists this as 588lbs so i think yours might be a little lighter than that carey? maybe not as the 5ft bushhog weights 560 but still less.
Anyway my point to all that is that i have a solid 3" metal roundstock and a 3"ID pipe a bit shorter filled with lead. I have a total of about 200lbs hanging off the front of mine. This helps with the heavy disk when i ballest it out and the finish mower when i lift it.
I would say running a 5 or 6ft finish mower there is a NEED for front ballest on a ym2000
