Trying to lay out for log splitter/lift valve

davedj1 · Jan 18, 2013

Here is the valve I plan on using Surplus Center - 2 SPOOL 25 GPM PRINCE LOG SPLITTER/LIFTER VALVE.
I have 3/4" coming out of my pump, this valve has 3/4" in/out and 1/2" working ports.
Two questions:
Can I use black iron from the valve back to the tank? I think in theory there is no pressure to speak of when valve is centered, just a lot of flow? I have high pressure line for going to the valve from the pump.
Do the work ports come out of the top of this valve? I'm guessing I have to remove the plugs that come in it.
thanks,
dave

J_J · Jan 18, 2013

Yes, that is correct.

davedj1 · Jan 19, 2013

Thanks JJ, the closer I get to completing this thing it's almost like having a new child!
The worst part is waiting for funds to buy the individual parts. About the only thing I'm lacking now is the valve and a few fittings.
What is your opinion on a filter in the return line? If I put one in it will have to be upside down, does that make sense and will it work that way?
thanks,
dave

J_J · Jan 20, 2013

You definitely need a filter, but why does it have to be upside down.

AS far as will it work upside down, I have never seen a filter mounted upside down. I would think you would want any sediments to stay on the walls and bottom of the filter.

I really don't know if the filter will work upside down.

Some oil filters can be mounted sideways/horizontal.

The hyd filter can be anywhere along the return hose or screwed into tank.

davedj1 · Jan 20, 2013

The reason I think it is going to have to be upside down is that the tank is almost level with the valve and the return line will be just above the cylinder. If worst case I could make a loop out beyond the motor and back to tank, that way it would be normal.
thanks for the help.
dave

oldnslo · Jan 21, 2013

Yes you can mount the filter upside down and it will work. The problems with this are:
When you change elements it gets messy and the dirty oil potentially drains into the filter head and passes into the reservoir.

Second problem is that if the by-pass valve opens during cold morning start-up or from filter being plugged the sediment can fall back into the inlet and be pushed through the by-pass.

davedj1 · Jan 21, 2013

Good info, thanks.

Ok, new question: I have a single lever valve that came in some stuff I bought, no detent. I haven't tested it yet but i believe it to be an open center design. If it checks out, could I just buy a single splitter valve with power beyond and use this valve for the log lift instead of buying the expensive valve I originally wanted that does both?
thanks,
dave

Edit:
Ah scratch that whole idea, apparently they don't sell an inexpensive log splitter valve that has power beyond. I guess I'll wait and get the original valve.

J_J · Jan 21, 2013

This valve would solve your problems, but it cost more.

This log splitter valve with PB sells for $190

http://www.splitez.com/log_splitter_parts.html

RD513CE5A4B1 New valve by Prince. $190

RD513CA5A4B1 $127

Another option.

This valve would let you switch between two different circuits. Log splitter valve or log lift valve. Both OUT ports from the log splitter and log lift should go to tank.

Surplus Center - 1/2" NPT 20 GPM PRINCE SELECTOR VALVE

davedj1 · Jan 22, 2013

Thanks JJ, but by the time I buy and plumb that I may as well get the original valve.
thanks
dave

J_J · Jan 22, 2013

I would venture to say, that 98 % of all log splitter valves are not PB. The idea being to send the fluid to tank with no back pressure, and provide an inexpensive valve.

The only log splitter valve that I have seen with PB are the auto return valves with log lifter setup.